Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 14 of 14
  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Northampton
    Posts
    1,210
    Quote Originally Posted by kdavies3 View Post
    A paint mark on both the dizzy flange and the manifold normally but as you're removing the paint I'd suggest a making a mark on both with a sharp chisel or a centre punch.
    Also make sure you mark the position of your rotor arm inside the cap too.
    Good points Kev
    Thanks
    Dek

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Northampton
    Posts
    1,210
    [QUOTE=nealgs;568743]i'm pretty certain that you don't need to remove the dizzy to remove the intake manifold (assuming i can remember correctly after having done this about 5-6 time in the past few months - lol)

    Make sure you have some good RTV sealant to seal the ends around the china walls when putting the manifold back on - don't use hylomar blue

    Thanks Gary
    Don't think the Edelbrock manifold is going to lift over the distributor body. Yes was going to use high temp rtv.
    Dek

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Northampton
    Posts
    1,210
    Quote Originally Posted by tommy-boy View Post
    If pulling your distributor why not (as well as marking) just set your timing again?

    If you dont have a timing gun. Then get one. Its a vital peice of garage equipment that costs practicaly nothing.
    Got one. Wasn't worried about upsetting the ignition timing but more worried about getting the distributor shaft back in the same position.
    Dek

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    NW England
    Posts
    234
    Quote Originally Posted by Dek View Post
    Got one. Wasn't worried about upsetting the ignition timing but more worried about getting the distributor shaft back in the same position.
    Dek
    Different engine but when I took the dizzy of my RV8 recently I took several photo's on my phone of the dizzy body location with respect to engine and rotor arm location (make sure you take the photo in line with dizzy axis) both in its current position and where it moved to when pulling it out on the helical gear. Also lead locations and routing. I'd rather have lots of pictures I don't need than need one and not have it.
    Obviously you won't be turning the engine while you have it out.
    Timing lights aren't expensive but I do wish "practically nothing" was the same as "nothing".

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •