Classic Replica Build

[KugaWestie]

With the radiator back in position I removed the windscreen and fitted the windscreen heater vent trims.




I pushed on with fitting the heater inside the cockpit behind the dash on top of the tunnel.




I then connected up my windscreen vent ducting




The windscreen then got refitted




The heater got plumbed in




Tomorrow will be a coolant refill, run the engine up to temp and bleed with the heater running

[KugaWestie]

EPAS got connected up and tested tonight

[Dek]

Now that’s made me jealous!
Dek

[KugaWestie]

Now that’s made me jealous!
Dek

I thought it might Dek

[KugaWestie]

Dashboard wiring is almost complete, just a couple more cables to sort on the warning lamps




Resistors soldered onto the LED alternator/charge and brake/handbrake warning lamps to make the LED’s perform like a normal lamp. These got insulated after I took the photo.

[jon1d]

I always use heat shrink which is quicker, neater and no chance of tape coming loose. Use a hot air gun or the soldering iron shaft not the iron tip .

[KugaWestie]

I always use heat shrink which is quicker, neater and no chance of tape coming loose. Use a hot air gun or the soldering iron shaft not the iron tip .

Yep I normally do the same as well (you can see plenty off this in the main wiring photo). On this occasion I chose to wrap with loom tape and then split conduit over the top.

[KugaWestie]

Dash wiring completed today, looms all wrapped and then I fitted it.

[KugaWestie]

Heated seat wiring installed. Since taking the photo the wiring has been connected up to power supplies and earthed.




I have started to look at how to trim the tunnel. I have decided to try and make up a complete fibreglass panel for the tunnel. Hopefully my plan works.

So first off it was CAD time.




I then made up a couple of side panels off the cardboard template and left them to cure. These panels will also hide the majority of the heated seat wiring.

I wasn’t happy with the junction/join and shape between the front tunnel top panel that sits under the dash and the rear curved tunnel top panel, so decided this needed to change. You can see it dips in the above photo.

I spent some time laying some new cardboard over the top of the two panels as well as masking off the bottom of the dash. Once I had packing taped it all, I laid up a new panel in-situ.






Once cured I removed the newly made panel.




After cleaning up the new top panel and one of the side panels to a rough shape I offered them back into the car.




I am hoping to join both side panels, the new top front panel and the curved rear panel together to make one large tunnel panel that can be slotted into position. Not sure if that is going to work yet but if it does it will mean that I can trim it to a finish outside of the car and then simply drop it into position.

[Dek]

I’m a bit confused Gary. My Viper has an all metal trans tunnel with a flat top. Useful if the prop let’s go! (metal, not the flat top). Are you shrouding yours in fibreglass and making the top curved?
Dek