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  1. #241
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Oxford
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    616
    Quote Originally Posted by TINKA View Post
    Sorry to sound like a scratched record but looking at the angle of your rear shock you really should move the top position out a bit to reduce the angle. It should be vertical to work properly as the more the angle the less effect it has. Your car looks identical to my mates car which bottomed out a lot. If you remove the spring and fit the shock on it's own and then move the axle to ride height it will make the angle even worse. If you do move it you might have to move it up a bit as well as otherwise the shock might end up being a little bit too long.
    I have not forgotten your previous comments Martin.

    I do not consider the angle of the rear shocks to be a problem to be honest. They will work perfectly well at that angle. Yes it might be the ideal scenario to have them upright, but it is not essential.
    But my intention is to review this once it is a rolling chassis when I can add some weight to the rear end and bounce it around.
    If I recall correctly you said your mate only fitted one shock/spring per side not two, this must have contributed to the bottoming out?

  2. #242
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Northampton
    Age
    41
    Posts
    3,769
    Incidentally, which seat is that from Intatrim? I had a chat to them at the show, too, and quite like the look of the Gemini & Challenger; I think yours is Challenger? Looks like they, too, will be too wide for the Dax, though.

    A shame, as they are half the price of having the Dax shells upholstered..
    My DeDion build diary..
    Hon Sec of the Digidash branch of the Unpopular Kit Car Design club

  3. #243
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Oxford
    Posts
    616
    Quote Originally Posted by aaronjb View Post
    Incidentally, which seat is that from Intatrim? I had a chat to them at the show, too, and quite like the look of the Gemini & Challenger; I think yours is Challenger? Looks like they, too, will be too wide for the Dax, though.

    A shame, as they are half the price of having the Dax shells upholstered..
    Correct, it is a Challenger seat

  4. #244
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Oxford
    Posts
    616
    I now have working pedals.
    I took a standard MX5 pedal box assembly, cut it about, reshaped everything and rewelded. The clutch pedal needed bending and shortening. The brake pedal got cut off, shaped and rewelded. The accelerator pedal got bent to a new shape.


  5. #245
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Oxford
    Posts
    616
    I have been thinking about gearing of the car.

    At present I have a 3.5 Rover V8 from an SD1, and a manual gearbox which I think is an LT77.

    Assuming thats the case, the gearbox ratios are:-
    1st - 3.321
    2nd - 2.087
    3rd - 1.396
    4th - 1
    5th - 0.833

    Included in my XJS donor parts when I collected the project was the Diff from the XJS. This is a 2.88 Powerlock from a 5.3 V12 HE.

    I think this may be a bit long, great for cruising but not for acceleration.

    I have been offered either a 3.07 Powerlock or a 3.54 Powerlock diff as a straight swap for my 2.88.

    But I am struggling to decide which diff will be the best option. Obviously the 3.54 would be better for acceleration, but will it rev too high at say 75mph on a long journey?

    What is the rover engine happy to cruise at RPM wise? According to Haynes Manual, the Original SD1 Diff would have been 3.08. This gave the SD1 a 0-60 time of around 8.5 seconds I think on twin SU carbs. My engine has been rebored but I dont know by ho much, has a fast road cam (again dont know spec), and will be fuel injected. The exhaust will no doubt flow better than a stock SD1 system.
    A stock SD1 V8 was 155BHP, what will my set up see, 180bhp?, 200bhp?

    I am guessing the Cobra will be a fair bit lighter then the SD1, which weighed in at 1367kg, but how much lighter I dont know, my guess would be around 1100kg when built? Say 250kg lighter?

    Anyone able to give me any assistance here?

    Discuss.........
    Last edited by KugaWestie; 31-05-18 at 07:18 PM.

  6. #246
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    East Leake, Nottinghamshire, England.
    Age
    55
    Posts
    9,478
    3.54 is the one I would go for or at a stretch 3.33-1 But the rest are too tall. If the 3.07 was an open diff I would love one of them but I will be running a 3.33-1 in my car.

    I put a 2.88-1 diff in my car 2 years ago and will be putting a 3.33-1 one back in as there is no acceleration in the car when cruising unless you drop it 1 or 2 gears and as you can see I have a bit more HP in my engine. Although it is nice to cruise with this diff in.
    Last edited by TINKA; 31-05-18 at 11:12 PM.
    Martin

    351W 416.7 HP and 466.8 ft-lbs

    Running Mega Squirt and Edis 8


  7. #247
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Finchampstead, Berkshire, UK.
    Age
    54
    Posts
    3,568
    I ran a 3.31:1 for a few years with an RV8/LT77, it was “ok” but no more than that, I’m currently running a 3.54 for the acceleration and 5th is good to cruise up to about 80, beyond that it’s a bit buzzy (My 5th is 0.83, I also have 6th at 0.5 for cruising!)

    Jim

    PS, if you do go for the LSD get it derated or you’ll suffer from understeer.
    GD Mk3 Jag based
    Supercharged LS1
    GD J1M

  8. #248
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Oxford
    Posts
    616
    Quote Originally Posted by Happy Jim View Post
    I ran a 3.31:1 for a few years with an RV8/LT77, it was “ok” but no more than that, I’m currently running a 3.54 for the acceleration and 5th is good to cruise up to about 80, beyond that it’s a bit buzzy (My 5th is 0.83, I also have 6th at 0.5 for cruising!)

    Jim

    PS, if you do go for the LSD get it derated or you’ll suffer from understeer.
    Thanks Jim

    Can you explain what you mean by "derated" on an LSD please?

  9. #249
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Oxford
    Posts
    616
    Quote Originally Posted by TINKA View Post
    3.54 is the one I would go for or at a stretch 3.33-1 But the rest are too tall. If the 3.07 was an open diff I would love one of them but I will be running a 3.33-1 in my car.

    I put a 2.88-1 diff in my car 2 years ago and will be putting a 3.33-1 one back in as there is no acceleration in the car when cruising unless you drop it 1 or 2 gears and as you can see I have a bit more HP in my engine. Although it is nice to cruise with this diff in.
    This was my suspicion that the 2.88 will be too long, thanks

  10. #250
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    East Leake, Nottinghamshire, England.
    Age
    55
    Posts
    9,478
    The slip in the diff is designed to be operated by a 2 ton car so that when you corner the wheels can turn at different speeds slightly. Our cars being only around 1 ton arent heavy enough to achieve this, so if you apply any throttle whilst cornering the car will just try to go in a straight line. I have experianced this and if you aren't expecting this it scares the crap out of you. I derated mine and the pressure needed to break the lock went from 95 ft/lb to 25 ft/lb.

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