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  1. #461
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Oxford
    Posts
    1,215
    The wife was out for a a while this evening meaning it was a perfect opportunity to get some accurate thermostat testing done, so out came the saucepan, temperature gauge and high powered torch



    I had three thermostats to test. After testing them all I have settled on one that starts to open at 78c, is fully open by 83c and on natural cool down is fully closed again at 75c. I am hoping this will keep the engine between 80-85c.

    Having chosen the thermostat I drilled a 3mm diameter bleed hole through it and then popped it into the inlet manifold



    I applied a bead of my preferred Loctite copper sealant to both sides of my homemade gasket



    Then fitted the housing cover to the manifold



    I have been waiting for my fuel pump barbed connectors to arrive and today they did, so whilst the sealant was open I applied a smear to these and fitted them to the pump.

  2. #462
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Northampton
    Age
    43
    Posts
    5,049
    That's some torch to get the water up to boiling point
    My DeDion build diary..
    Hon Sec of the Digidash branch of the Unpopular Kit Car Design club

  3. #463
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Hertfordshire
    Posts
    532
    Can I send my thermostat for testing please?

  4. #464
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Oxford
    Posts
    1,215
    Quote Originally Posted by Boxoftricks View Post
    Can I send my thermostat for testing please?
    Its easy, pick up a cheap digital meat thermometer on ebay
    bring a pan of water up to boiling gradually, shine the torch on the thermostat and look for it to start opening, let it fully open. Turn heat off, allow to cool naturally until fully closed. Note temps at each stage.
    The torch helps seeing movement as the light will shine through the gap onto the bottom of the pan.
    Some say for 100% accuracy the thermostat should be suspended in the water.

  5. #465
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Oxford
    Posts
    1,215
    Fuel tank fitted and all fuel plumbing installed at the rear of the car tonight.

    I decided to take the fuel outlet from the drivers side of the car. This then feeds into a 100 micron filter pre-pump (it is blue, you can just see it in the first photo to the right of the pump). Then pre-pump filter into the pump. Out of the pump and 90 degrees towards the front of the car with a 30 micron post pump filter fitted underneath the fuel tank (you can just see it in the second photo, it is black). Then onto the copper fuel pipe at the rear of the tunnel and off up to the front of the car.








    There is also a return pipe back into the bottom of the fuel tank, this is connected to the other outlet on the tank on the passenger side.


    I finished off by marking up my copper pipes in the engine bay with Flow and Return to make the next stage easier.



    Now before everyone starts telling me that there are a few jubilee clips in use and that is bad practice, I know thanks
    I ran out of proper fuel pipe clamps and also need a couple that are the next size up for the fuel pump bark connection. So there are some on order and these will be swapped over when they arrive.

  6. #466
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Dronten, the Netherlands
    Posts
    362
    Impressed with general state of the works, maybe thats why the weld on the square pipe caught my attention, it seems like not enough Amps were applied? Not sure what its function is, maybe something temporarily?

    BestRegards, Theo

  7. #467
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Newark, Notts
    Age
    71
    Posts
    1,672
    I would suggest you add further jubilee clips to the fuel pipe connections between copper and rubber. You really really need barbed connectors like the ones you fitted to the fuel pump.
    Charlie
    Joint Area Rep - East Midlands Region
    AKCharlie - ''AKA SOOTY'' - AK GEN2 - LS3 - 6.2litre - 434bhp - A dream come true
    .

  8. #468
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Oxford
    Posts
    1,215
    Quote Originally Posted by AKCharlie View Post
    I would suggest you add further jubilee clips to the fuel pipe connections between copper and rubber. You really really need barbed connectors like the ones you fitted to the fuel pump.
    Charlie
    Thanks Charlie, Its not a problem though as I flared the ends on the copper pipes when I made them

  9. #469
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Newark, Notts
    Age
    71
    Posts
    1,672
    Good Man!!
    Joint Area Rep - East Midlands Region
    AKCharlie - ''AKA SOOTY'' - AK GEN2 - LS3 - 6.2litre - 434bhp - A dream come true
    .

  10. #470
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Oxford
    Posts
    1,215
    I have been procrastinating over the exhaust system for a good couple of months now.
    I spent a fair bit of time looking at various Cobra's at Autosport International taking special note of the exhausts.

    I have finally made my mind up.

    Since early December I have been keeping my eye on a used exhaust system on EBay that I thought might be worth a punt. I knew it would need some alteration work but at the right money it could turn out to be a bargain and a good solution/system.

    With Autosport out of the way I decided to take the punt after a bit of negotiation on the price.

    So here it is now safely in my possession.



    It has come off a TVR Cerbera. I unwrapped it for a quick initial inspection and it looks to be in pretty good order. It will need alteration and the front pipes will need lopping off just in front of the bracket and then extending to suit.

    The appeal was that it will be an underslung system which is the original AC Cobra design as well as being a bit more civilised when driving but hopefully still a great soundtrack from what is a performance V8 system. I also like those 3" polished tailpipes!

    Once the front half of the fuel system is finalised this will be next on the radar.

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