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  1. #501
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Oxford
    Posts
    430
    Quote Originally Posted by Ian C View Post
    Your first picture brought back memories of wiring the Sumo some years ago. Apologies if this grandmother & eggs time but when you are looming try to avoid using tape, use cable ties or similar which are easy to push additional wires through (or remove unneeded ones). When I was going through the loom to identify the various functions I used little tags, tied to the wire or wires - big mistake! Overnight the tag fairies had great fun twisting all the tags together in a Gordian knot - oh the happy hours I spent untwisting the tags and trying to find the end of the tape to peel it off (again). Much better to use masking tape or similar with the function written on it.

    Fascinating to see your car coming together, keep on with the good work.

    Regards,
    Ian
    Thanks.

    The loom has been bench tested as much as possible so I am feeling pretty confident, and it is loom tape not insulation tape which helps.

  2. #502
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Oxford
    Posts
    430
    Over the last couple of evenings I have been sorting out my throttle cable.

    Looking at the bulkhead and the servo position the cable had to go through right in the top corner above the accelerator pedal. So I drilled the hole for it.


    That was when the penny dropped that all those months ago when I altered the original MX5 pedals, I had totally not considered the fact that the servo would be in the way of a cable coming through onto the pedal in the position I had it!!


    So I had to alter the pedal. Last night I extended the pedal up to the incoming cable position and threaded the cable through to the Fitech.


    I fashioned a cable clamp on the Fitech and temporarily connected the cable up to test the operation.


    Upon testing the pedal operation it felt a little on the stiff side, so I decided to think about it for a day and test it again tonight. Upon doing that, I decided I was not happy and thought it needed to be improved/modified.

    So here is the modified pedal. Basically I have raised the pivot point to put the pivot closer to the cable. This made the lever on the cable side of the pivot shorter and the lever on the pedal side of the pivot longer. The result is a nice smooth pedal now. The pedal now bottoms out nicely onto the bulkhead bang on WOT as well.


    Here is the finalised throttle lever clamp



    A short video if anyone is interested. I have not worked out how to embed youtube videos yet, can anyone can tell me how to do it?

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vopxMBW2QYQ

    I am glad I persevered as it is much nicer now
    Last edited by KugaWestie; 11-02-19 at 09:06 PM.

  3. #503
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Cheshire
    Age
    49
    Posts
    210
    This and the 1UZFE conversion are my go-to threads whenever there's a new post. Great work.
    Kittihawk: Pilgrim Sumo MK3 built '93/'94 with 2.1L Stage 2 Pinto and Ford Type 9 5-Speed Gearbox

  4. #504
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Northampton
    Age
    40
    Posts
    3,524
    Quote Originally Posted by skinnymathew View Post
    This and the 1UZFE conversion are my go-to threads whenever there's a new post. Great work.
    Likewise, loving the work and pictures in both.
    My DeDion build diary..
    Hon Sec of the Digidash branch of the Unpopular Kit Car Design club

  5. #505
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Oxford
    Posts
    430
    Thanks gents

    I have started to look at exhaust mounts at the rear of the car. We all know that rubber bobbins need to be in compression so bearing this in mind I came up with a sketch design.


    I then reviewed positions under the car and decided to utilise some threaded holes on the bottom of the diff that have no use at present.

    The pictures show things at a "work in progress" state but I am pleased with how it has come out so far. I intend to modify the bracket that takes the bobbin and need to make one for the other side. The pleasing thing is I have managed to position the mount in the same place the pipes join so can kill two birds with one stone by mounting and clamping the joint.

    A view looking up the tunnel from the back of the car


    The mounting bracket that I intend to improve


    The other side of the mount waiting for a support bracket

  6. #506
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Surrey
    Posts
    200
    Is nice. I like. Very good work.
    DAX Cobra MK3 chassis, MK4 shell. RV8.

  7. #507
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Newcastle upon Tyne
    Posts
    1,757
    Hi,

    I see we went to the same "Victorian" engineering school - those mounts look strong enough to support the engine never mind the exhaust. Putting the rubber bobbins in compression is an excellent plan.

    As a matter of interest what thickness steel have you used, looks to be about 4 mm? And another question - where do you source your metal from? I have had some success going to local steel stockists and asking to rummage through their scrap bin but this tends to limit the size of the pieces.


    Regards,
    Ian
    Pilgrim Sumo Mk3; IVA Apr. 2014; RV8 3.9 EFi ; Cosworth T5; Granada Donor
    Phase Two underway - Conversion to Japanese

  8. #508
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Oxford
    Posts
    430
    Quote Originally Posted by Ian C View Post
    Hi,

    I see we went to the same "Victorian" engineering school - those mounts look strong enough to support the engine never mind the exhaust. Putting the rubber bobbins in compression is an excellent plan.

    As a matter of interest what thickness steel have you used, looks to be about 4 mm? And another question - where do you source your metal from? I have had some success going to local steel stockists and asking to rummage through their scrap bin but this tends to limit the size of the pieces.


    Regards,
    Ian
    Lol - I prefer "belt n braces"

    The flat plate used to hold the U bolt clamps is 25 x 3mm thick. The angle iron used to connect to the underside of the diff is 40 x 40 x 4mm thick.

    Regarding sourcing steel - I deal with a steel fabricating company through work and give them a fair bit of business, so I just tell him what I want and go and pick it up. Sometime its free and sometimes just a bit of cash, depending on what it is I want!

  9. #509
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Oxford
    Posts
    430
    First set of exhaust mounts completed. They will need spraying but I think I will leave that until the system is complete.






  10. #510
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Walsall
    Age
    44
    Posts
    143
    Mate man after my own heart cans of Tribute on the garage floor.

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