A little sealer at each end under and then on top of the rubbers did the trick for me ...
when I fitted it dry I had a little oil getting through each end of the valley .
cheers Ian
Looking to swap a valley gasket on a Rover V8 this weekend, I have the gasket and new rubber inserts.
Any words of wisdom to create the perfect oil/water seals? Do I fit it dry or use a sealer or both?
Regards
Craig Perry
No, I'm not "repairing" it, I'm fine tuning its performance.
A little sealer at each end under and then on top of the rubbers did the trick for me ...
when I fitted it dry I had a little oil getting through each end of the valley .
cheers Ian
Test fit the rubber bits, trim to suit and use sealant especially at the ends. I had to trim the triangles that fill the head-to-block chamfer at the ends of mine as it was clear they weren't going to fit (but I'd had both block and heads skimmed). Also, check the metal clamps will fit without binding on the heads - again, I had to shorten mine by a mm or so. I also used a bit of sealant around the water passage just ot be safe.
Touch wood, I have no leaks...
HTH
4.6RV8 Sumo on MSD (finally!)
Yes, only buy the original equipment Land Rover parts ('95MY on) - the latest rubber coated gasket, rubbers seal and the wider, stiffer clamps. Then a pea sized blob in the notch between head and block, torque the manifold and clamps down to process and you're good to go. No other goo required.
Hi Craig use composite valley gasget as Benjai said trim the ends of the rubber gasgets as you can actually crack the inlet manifold when final torque as they stand far to proud, offenhauser actually put warning advice in there new manifolds regarding this. I have always used a little hylamar around water ports the top and bottom of the rubber gasgets and a dab of silicone sealant at the ends. Belt and braces maybe but have never had a leak and have done quite a few.
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