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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Shawbury, Shropshire
    Age
    42
    Posts
    64

    Brake light switch

    Hi All,

    Is there an ideal spot for the brake light switch to be mounted or just somewhere near the master cylinder?

    If so photos would be much appreciated. I’m a visual learner haha!

    Cheers

    Andy

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Costa del Newcastle upon tyne
    Posts
    1,978
    Andy.

    If your fitting a hydraulic switch in the brake lines then IMO just stop now and use a diffrent setup.

    I’m sure with this being the internet that someone will come along and argue the toss against what i’m writing however i will only give you “facts”

    I had a hydraulic switch just off the brake servo insulated and shielded from the epic heat given off from the headers, then after a period of time or less than 1000 miles to be realistic. The switch failed leaving me with no brake lights whatsoever.... this makes driving very daunting when your miles away from home when you realise the switch has failed.

    I would strongly recommend fitting a physical switch (of the correct amps) on the pedal box over any other setup. And if your building still it would be so much easier to remove the pedal box from the body and make your bracket/switch setup whilst working at your bench as opposed to head first in a footwell whilst trying to reverse bend your elbow and fix things together.

    Tommy

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    East Leake, Nottinghamshire, England.
    Age
    55
    Posts
    9,499
    Quote Originally Posted by tommy-boy View Post
    Andy.

    If your fitting a hydraulic switch in the brake lines then IMO just stop now and use a diffrent setup.

    I’m sure with this being the internet that someone will come along and argue the toss against what i’m writing however i will only give you “facts”

    I had a hydraulic switch just off the brake servo insulated and shielded from the epic heat given off from the headers, then after a period of time or less than 1000 miles to be realistic. The switch failed leaving me with no brake lights whatsoever.... this makes driving very daunting when your miles away from home when you realise the switch has failed.

    I would strongly recommend fitting a physical switch (of the correct amps) on the pedal box over any other setup. And if your building still it would be so much easier to remove the pedal box from the body and make your bracket/switch setup whilst working at your bench as opposed to head first in a footwell whilst trying to reverse bend your elbow and fix things together.

    Tommy
    I agree had an old fashioned switch on my brake pedal for 14 years or whatever it now and never had any problems yet I've known quite a few of the pressure switches on other peoples cars fail. JMHO

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Highlands (North of Inverness)
    Posts
    1,236
    I had heard that the heat from the exhausts had caused problems in the past, so I simply extended the cables on my AK and located the hydraulic switch down on the chassis leg, miles away from the heat caused by the exhausts. Seems to work fine although not on the road yet so time will tell.
    Best anti speeding device - a rear view mirror with a police car in it.
    A pedestrian - someone who thought there was still a couple of gallons in the tank.
    AK Chassis and body collected 12.12.14

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Hockley ,Essex
    Age
    56
    Posts
    31

    Re brake sw.

    Quote Originally Posted by Andyr171 View Post
    Hi All,

    Is there an ideal spot for the brake light switch to be mounted or just somewhere near the master cylinder?

    If so photos would be much appreciated. I’m a visual learner haha!

    Cheers

    Andy
    I myself have replaced the hydraulic brk sw on my srv8 last year due to failure after being on the car for twenty two years.
    The switch is fitted on the front lhs x member away from any serious heat.
    I think if a good quality switch is fitted you should be fine with hydraulic version.
    Can't see any issues with a pedal box version either as long as you use a decent switch.
    Regards,

    Chris.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Shawbury, Shropshire
    Age
    42
    Posts
    64
    Thanks very much guys. Both options make sense but I reckon simple may be better.
    I thought I was done with the pedal box though I’m sure it’ll be worth a bit of effort rather than changing the switch every 1000 miles.

    I’m just looking for jobs to do while i’m waiting for the engine to be finished.
    Got some thinking to to.
    Are the pedal box mounted switches easy enough to fit?

    Cheers

    Andy

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Coventry
    Posts
    2,308
    Mine has failed twice and will be replacing my hydraulic switch at some point in the near future

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    East Leake, Nottinghamshire, England.
    Age
    55
    Posts
    9,499
    Quote Originally Posted by seph View Post
    Mine has failed twice and will be replacing my hydraulic switch at some point in the near future
    This is what I fitted to mine
    Martin

    351W 416.7 HP and 466.8 ft-lbs

    Running Mega Squirt and Edis 8


  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Sheffield
    Posts
    1,017
    Quote Originally Posted by TINKA View Post
    This is what I fitted to mine
    Good idea, thanks.
    My hydraulic switch needs quite a stamp on the pedal before it operates the brake lights - a bit dangerous. I should swap to one of these switches.

    Nuf Said

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Worcestershire
    Age
    44
    Posts
    2,189
    Quote Originally Posted by TINKA View Post
    This is what I fitted to mine
    Any photos for us??

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