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Thread: Twin roll hoops

  1. #11
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Plymouth
    Age
    41
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    68
    John, i would suggest not doing what i have described as the site now appears to have blocked my work internet. Can others offer any advice?

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    on the edge...almost falling off
    Age
    55
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    8,432
    Can you not cut some of the lip away to clear the roll hoop??

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    wakefield
    Posts
    42
    Hi Tony, that was my first thought but then your into re- welding the tank seam etc. Just thought it would be easier to move the tank back but not sure without the body to look at. Regards John.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    on the edge...almost falling off
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    Posts
    8,432
    Ok, I wasn't due if you could cut some of the lip off without compromising the weld, hard to tell from the picture.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    wakefield
    Posts
    42
    Additional info: my tank has an even lip on front and back, anybody know how to download photos to thread?

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    West Sussex
    Posts
    7,797
    When I fitted my hoops, I had to take the tank out to gain access. It was a tight fit, but why not just move the tank back a cm or so? Its only a few holes to drill, and the filler eschutchon should accomodate without leaving a gaping hole.
    Crendon Chassis No.49
    Huddart FE428 + toploader

    Not listed in the Shelby Register.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    wakefield
    Posts
    42
    Hi Kevin, not got the body yet so wasn’t sure about the hole positions. I will have to move the tank back about 30mm to clear the hoops which leaves the tank hanging over the chassis by about 50%, hence the question on if I need additional support. Regards John.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Worcestershire
    Age
    43
    Posts
    1,861
    My old Sumo had twin hoops with what looks likes the same parts photographed, the tank is on slotted holes so can move backwards and forwards. No need additional support on mine.

    Don't forget the inner mount needs to be further back than the outside if you want to maintain a constant gap to the lip on the body.

    Also, my Sumo failed IVA because the tank wasn't earthed (amongst other things).
    Regards

    Craig Perry

    No, I'm not "repairing" it, I'm fine tuning its performance.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    wakefield
    Posts
    42
    Thanks Craig, not quite sure what you mean by constant gap to lip of the body though. If you put the inner mounts further back won’t the hoops look odd. Good tip on the earth strap by the way, didn’t know that. Regards John.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Worcestershire
    Age
    43
    Posts
    1,861
    The lip on the body in front of the hoops is curved, so you either need to fit the hoops at angles (as I did) or the inner leg will look closer to edge than the outer.

    Make sure you put the hoops far enough back so you don’t need to cut a straight edge on the escutcheon either.

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