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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Newcastle upon Tyne
    Posts
    1,869

    Granada Rear Wheel Bearing Problem

    Hi,

    As part of the fitting of the 7.5" Granada LSD I am also upgrading the rear drive assembly from the 100mm Lobro joints to the 108mm version and I am also replacing the rear wheel bearings.

    The old outer bearing rings (races) were drifted out of the hub carriers and the hub carriers were found to be in good condition - no sign of spinning or other damage. The inner bearing rings (races) came off the stub easily, some marks on the hub shaft but nothing that would cause concern.

    The new bearing outer rings were pressed into the hub carriers to butt firmly against the central ridge in the bore of the carrier. The inner bearing rings were tight on the hub shaft, with careful alignment they slid on but any slight misalignment they would bind and jam. No play was detectable once they were in place during trial fitting. The hub carrier was bolted back onto the rear trailing arm. The seal was pushed onto the hub after lightly greasing the seal lip. The new inner bearing was greased up, with Lithium based grease, and fitted onto the hub which was then inserted into the hub carrier. It needed gentle tapping with a mallet to drive the seal into the hub carrier The inner (in the sense of being fitted from the inner side of the hub carrier) inner bearing was greased up and inserted into the hub carrier over the end of the hub shaft. The inner seal was lightly greased and fitted to the stub axle and the stub axle inserted into the hub. The stub axle was then pulled into position using the old wheel nut (which will be replaced with new on final assembly). This pulled the inner oil seal into position in the hub carrier. I tightened the wheel nut using a standard ratchet bar to "tight", but nowhere near the 250 - 290 Nm required, and the hub is solid. I can turn it using considerable force on the wheel studs but it is a struggle. I have the brake rotor fitted but it is not the brakes binding & causing drag.

    My first thought was that the new stub axles, with the 108mm flanges, were the cause as there small differences between the old & new stub axles. I removed the new stub axle and fitted the old stub axle into the hub. I again tightened the wheel nut to find the hub solid. By slackening the nut it gets progressively easier to turn. So it is not down to the stub axle which, by my understanding, effectively clamps the bearing inner rings between its face and the face of the hub when the nut is tightened. What could be causing the bearings to tighten up? Is it possible to put too much grease in when assembling the unit?

    Any thoughts, comments or advice would be most welcome (apart from "Why are you doing this?")

    Ian
    Pilgrim Sumo Mk3; IVA Apr. 2014; RV8 3.9 EFi ; Cosworth T5; Granada Donor
    Phase Two underway - Conversion to Japanese

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    York
    Posts
    476
    Hi Ian, what a bind...

    From your description I don't think you mention any way of setting the pre-load on these bearings; from a quick search the Granada bearings are tapered right? On Jag rear hubs there is a spacer ring that has to be carefully measured and selected, thickness-wise, to give a specific tolerance, 0.003-0.007" I think. This is probably too obvious but it was a thought. I hope you can get it remedied.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Newcastle upon Tyne
    Posts
    1,869
    Tris,

    Thanks for the prompt response. The Granada bearings are tapered but the preload is set by the shoulder in the bearing carrier - no shims or adjustment. The bearings are clamped together by the wheel nut with a torque setting of 250 - 290Nm.

    Just found the problem, after much careful analysis and internal debate I decided how the seals should be fitted and got it wrong by 180°!! Just assembled the other hub, dry and on the bench, and the bearings are fine but the way I had fitted the seals jams the outer rings - easy to see when it is in front of you.

    I will post the details later for any others who tread this route.

    Regards,
    Ian
    Pilgrim Sumo Mk3; IVA Apr. 2014; RV8 3.9 EFi ; Cosworth T5; Granada Donor
    Phase Two underway - Conversion to Japanese

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Basingstoke
    Posts
    1,109
    Hi Ian,

    Are you going from mk2 granny diff to cosworth diff?

    Alex

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    York
    Posts
    476
    Glad you got it sorted Ian, easily done on a first trip I imagine. Lots of tolerances floating around my head at the mo' (mainly Chevy); having checked, Jag rear bearing tolerance is 0.001" - 0.003"

    Keep us posted

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    liverpool
    Age
    46
    Posts
    402
    Hi Ian, I've got my front and rear all stripped, shotblased and painted. Ready to assemble with new bearings. I had to make a bracket fixed to the floor to hold it while I undone the front hub nut and then be able to tighten it, the front hub nut is something around 340 Newton's

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Plymouth
    Age
    43
    Posts
    159
    Hi Ian,

    Keen to see your pics as i suspect my seals are all in the wrong way around. I haven't yet torqued up my hubs so haven't noticed them jam. Oh joy.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Plymouth
    Age
    43
    Posts
    159
    This is my youtube film of me fitting my bearings. Is this right or wrong?

    I am struggling to see how the seal can go the other way. Mine are not at 250nm but are as tight as I could get them for now and still turn OK.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9sZCSLygxeg
    Granada based Pilgrim Sumo with RV8 - May 2017
    YouTube Build diary:
    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJnGMrv_CkERYzoG68enTGg

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Plymouth
    Age
    43
    Posts
    159
    Hi Ian,

    Thinking about this. On my hubs you see that the grease seal is pressed in and goes lower than the inner race causing the rubber seal to stretch around the inner race to form the seal. If you put the seal on the axle and pulled it in this wouldn't have pressed the metal rim below the inner race and you would have trapped the rubber seal between the inner race and the axle preventing the axle from turning?

    Just a thought and still really hoping mine are right, really don't fancy the idea or stripping all my hubs down and starting again.
    Granada based Pilgrim Sumo with RV8 - May 2017
    YouTube Build diary:
    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJnGMrv_CkERYzoG68enTGg

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Newcastle upon Tyne
    Posts
    1,869
    James,

    I just wish I had watched your video before I managed to talk my self into making the job more difficult than it should have been. You will gather from the above that your seals are in the correct orientation.

    Take care,
    Ian
    Pilgrim Sumo Mk3; IVA Apr. 2014; RV8 3.9 EFi ; Cosworth T5; Granada Donor
    Phase Two underway - Conversion to Japanese

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