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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Honiton, Devon
    Age
    52
    Posts
    7,721
    I've never put them on my cars, don't particularly like them and they are a paint when washing the car etc.
    Dingo stuck them on a couple of Crendons that I have owned. I think he used a decent silicone so that they stay on but can be taken off later.
    He uses fishing line and acetone to get them off I think.
    2003 Dave Brookes Dax 350ci Chevy SB.
    2008 Crendon 462ci Ford Sideoiler FE Chassis No.43
    2012 Crendon 351ci Ford Cleveland Chassis No.24
    2014 Crendon 452ci Ford FE Chassis No.66 (in progress)

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Leeds
    Posts
    2,651
    I just used a basic clear silicone bath sealant - nothing fancy or special. You do have to be a bit careful when washing as Neil mentions, but nothing to arduous to achieve

    Gary
    Conny - A Carnival Red Metallic (paint code Ref: Jag CGG/1811) Southern Roadcraft V8 ( SRV8 ) with 383ci stroker chevy.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Surrey
    Posts
    144
    Whilst fully acknowledging that these cars are replicas, and that most details are recreated, I personally feel that installing legitimate fasteners to the bonnet purely for effect is one thing - but - glueing the severed heads of fasteners to the bonnet surface is ...a step too far. Reminds me of a guy who came up with fake, glassfibre brake calipers, held in place with bits of dexian racking brackets. In my worthless opinion, a bit too fake.
    Similarly - fake radiator cooling fans - I thought they were very slick until I read on here that they were essentially 'garden windmill decorations'.
    But variety is the spice, etc - and this is just my personal view.
    DAX Cobra MK3 chassis, MK4 shell. RV8.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Cheshire
    Age
    49
    Posts
    135
    Seems to me they're both for decoration and the only difference is how they're attached and whether they're reversible.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Leeds
    Posts
    2,651
    @Bannon - LOL - you could say that about anything fitted to these plastic replicas, it's all fake, but it does look the part - just don't get to close to see


    Gary
    Conny - A Carnival Red Metallic (paint code Ref: Jag CGG/1811) Southern Roadcraft V8 ( SRV8 ) with 383ci stroker chevy.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Cherval, France
    Age
    59
    Posts
    1,655
    I am afraid I am with Bannon on this. In my opinion, I felt sticking rivet heads on, was a step too far. For this reason, I went with drilling and tapping as a "proper" engineer should.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Marlow
    Age
    67
    Posts
    1,709
    As you say each to his own, that's what our cars are all about!

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    United Kingdom
    Age
    49
    Posts
    287
    So if I was going for the "Engineers" solution what type and size bolts would be required - being an accountant I can count how many are required . I quite fancy attacking my bonnet with a blunt drill bit.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    York
    Posts
    389
    Hi David, this thread might help:

    http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/showt...=Bonnet+rivets

    I think Kev ended up going with flanged button heads on his Contemporary build, each to his own though.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Devon
    Posts
    260
    Used M4 flanged stainless button heads, drilled and tapped, only tricky bit was getting the tapped thread square so the head sat flat on the bonnet.

    Attached Images Attached Images

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