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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    York
    Posts
    469
    Another thought is that, if there is definitely a leak, a clue is that the cylinders in question are adjacent to each other....

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Horsham, West Sussex, UK.
    Age
    59
    Posts
    195
    Thanks for your feedback.
    Repeated the oil priming again. No problems this time. So I guess the engine builder squirted a little oil into the bores for protection purposes. Panic over.

    Painted the block. Polished all the chrome pulleys and rocked covers. Replaced the dowel pins and it seams the bell housing is only 2 thou off centre. Well within the 5 thou acceptable tolerance. So all looking good there.

    There is a pilot bearing in the crankshaft that I want to replace with one of known quality. Tried getting it out today using the grease packing method. Failed. It may work on You Tube, but not in my garage. Ordered a pilot bearing removal tool. Who knows, I might even get the engine in the car within a week! Then it's time to drop the back axle and swap the diff out for a ratio that gives a little more acceleration.

    The build is progressing well.
    Regards
    Richard

    Dax - Standard Chassis, a boot full of parts, Chevy 383 Stroker and Tremec TKO 600. Time for paint!

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Nova Scotia
    Posts
    810
    Thank-you for sharing your results. Far too often, an OP will leave us hanging on what the answer turned out to be.

    Sounds like you're about to make some significant progress. Good Luck!
    John

    “A prudent person profits from personal experience, a wise one from the experience of others.”

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    York
    Posts
    469
    Thanks for letting us know and glad it turned out to be something about nothing. Be exciting firing her up once you’ve dropped her into the car

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Northampton
    Age
    41
    Posts
    3,867
    Quote Originally Posted by Richard Gibbs View Post
    There is a pilot bearing in the crankshaft that I want to replace with one of known quality. Tried getting it out today using the grease packing method. Failed. It may work on You Tube, but not in my garage. Ordered a pilot bearing removal tool. Who knows, I might even get the engine in the car within a week! Then it's time to drop the back axle and swap the diff out for a ratio that gives a little more acceleration.
    Grease packing needs a really really tight tolerance between the thing you're pounding on and the bearing, or the grease just squeezes out of the gap - you might want to try damp bread (no, really!) as that has a harder time oozing and does more hydraulicing... or wait for the puller to turn up
    My DeDion build diary..
    Hon Sec of the Digidash branch of the Unpopular Kit Car Design club

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Horsham, West Sussex, UK.
    Age
    59
    Posts
    195
    Thanks for your suggestion about the bread trick. I tried it as well. But the bearing is tight in there. Pilot bearing puller should be here tomorrow.
    Sometimes I find that only the right tool will do the job.

    I did put the dowel pins in the freezer for a few hours to make them easier to drive in. Shame I couldn't get the pilot bearing in the freezer while keeping the block at room temp.

    Still, pilot bearing puller will do the job I'm sure.

    I think it's time to polish the engine bay in prep for the engine drop in!
    Regards
    Richard

    Dax - Standard Chassis, a boot full of parts, Chevy 383 Stroker and Tremec TKO 600. Time for paint!

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    leatherhead,surrey
    Posts
    979
    a little more convenient than getting large items in the freezer.................especialy mucky stuff...
    https://www.screwfix.com/p/arctic-pr...FRZFGwodcx8O5w
    hope this helps.............next time maybe?
    neil

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Shropshire/Wales Border
    Age
    48
    Posts
    5,942
    Intake manifold gasket? Easy enough for the motor to suck in oil through a leaking gasket. Whats the motor running like?

    Also is the PCV setup correct and functioning properly? A pressurised crankcase can cause some odd symptoms
    Lloyd B
    Current: Crendon #54 in build - 427 Side Oiler/Cobrajet Heads/Dual 600cfm Holleys/4 speed toploader/Vintage cast knock on wheels
    Dedion Dax/Clarkson 383 Chevy with roller 4/7 swap cam, AFR195 heads - SOLD

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Horsham, West Sussex, UK.
    Age
    59
    Posts
    195
    Interesting product from Screwfix. Hadn't seen that beforehand.
    Good suggestion. Let's hope the puller does its job.

    Hi Lloyd.
    Engine isn't running yet. It was, at the engine builders. PCV looks to be set up right. I'll know quickly upon first start when I get it installed. Can't wait to hear it bark!

    I got the exhaust back from the welder yesterday. He's installed bungs for the twin Innovate lambda sensors.
    Do you know if the Innovate dashboard gauge meets IVA requirements by any chance? Looks to have a radius well in excess of 2mm. But it does stick out of the dash a little more than the other instruments. If not, and when I read the latest IVA guide again, I'll swap out for a clock or oil temp gauge to match the rest of the ETB instruments.

    Here's another question for you guys. When you install your spark plugs do you use any copper grease? I've got to gap them to 0.35 thou yet. That's for another day.

    Installed the temp sensor and heater take offs today and cleaned the spark pug wires. Polished the air filter too.
    Did someone say 'addiction'?
    Regards
    Richard

    Dax - Standard Chassis, a boot full of parts, Chevy 383 Stroker and Tremec TKO 600. Time for paint!

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    liverpool
    Age
    46
    Posts
    361
    I remember reading about bike theifs Beeing clever and using it to freeze locks and chains. Changing the properties of the metal then hitting it with a hammer.

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