Page 3 of 7 FirstFirst 12345 ... LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 69
  1. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Highlands (North of Inverness)
    Posts
    1,184
    Ian,

    Front and rear crankshaft, spark plug tube seals and I didnt but probably should have replaced the valve stem seals. I have seen this done on many engines without removing the heads, but no so sure this can be done on the 1UZFE?

    The reason I painted the engine with High temp aluminium paint was because the hours that I had spent getting rid of all of the muck and small amount of corrosion would as happened with your Rover engine, gone to waste. The parts that I could, I painted and then baked in the oven @ 60 degrees for at least 40mins as directed and so far it still looks great.

    Cheers.

    Paul.
    Best anti speeding device - a rear view mirror with a police car in it.
    A pedestrian - someone who thought there was still a couple of gallons in the tank.
    AK Chassis and body collected 12.12.14

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    High Wycombe
    Age
    54
    Posts
    480
    Sorry to all, mini highjack.

    Could anyone who has used the Lexus engine preferably on an AK and doesn't mind doing so, PM me an email address I could send a couple of photos and some questions to. I need a second opinion/advice on an engine related "issue" that I would rather not publish on an open forum and can't send photos via a PM.

    Many thanks, Graham.
    AK gen 1 delivered 05/05/17, on the road shortly!

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Newcastle upon Tyne
    Posts
    1,697
    Still removing the wiring looms and trying to identify the locations of the various sensors that I will need to utilise for the after market EMS. The knack of opening the trunking covers without snapping the latches has now been learnt - a bit too late for the majority of the latches unfortunately. I am hoping that there will be a lot fewer wires to fit when the rebuild starts which will enable me to simplify the looming.

    More parts were removed to facilitate the removal of the wiring including the manifolds. I was interested to see how the manifolds were attached. The thick flanges, which fitted over studs in the engine block (I was glad to see studs rather then bolts, I had to change the RV8 to studs when I had a couple of stripped threads on the manifold fixings in the block), were loose on the manifold. They hold the flared end of the manifold tight against the gasket (a multi layered steel affair) and exhaust port in the block. There was no sign of any sealant or any leaks which was reassuring.

    I have also, belatedly, got more efficient at undoing the connectors after studying those already removed closely to learn the secret. As I had started from the point at which the engine wiring had been amputated from the car, at the rear of the engine, I eventually reached the front and got to a point where I needed to strip the front end. This would require the removal of the timing belt, which I was planning to replace anyway, so I made reference to the LS400 1UZ-FE Manual (which I think was made available to fellow Lexus disciples by Alunwill, or possibly TonyD - apologies for not knowing but thank you to whoever it was!!) for the procedure. It was all dreadfully straight forward with only one minor problem revealed.

    The camshaft and crankshaft pulleys were removed with the aid of an impact wrench and, in the case of the crankshaft pulley, a claw extractor. The 12 toothed crank position trigger wheel was revealed and immediately raised the question of whether it would need to be replace with, what now appears to be the standard, 36 - 1 wheel for the after market EMS. With the front of the block now exposed it became clear that the engine has suffered either from an "incident" of some sort or possibly just had a rough life! The front of the engine had extensive surface corrosion on the aluminium, the usual white frosting was apparent around the lower front and on the left hand side (in front of the odd cylinder bank). A bit of detective work showed that the most probable cause would have been a burst hose from the coolant return to the radiator.

    The final act for the front end was the removal of the water pump, again the procedure were clear and the provision of dedicated blocks, which were used to pry off the water pump from the engine block, showed the level of detail in the design of this engine. Removing the water pump revealed the internal chambers which were immaculate, you would not have believed that coolant had been circulating in them for 25 years or more, amazing. I am definitely a convert to Oriental technology, there has not been a single bolt or nut (well my son pointed out this afternoon that there was one, but I am ignoring him) that was rusted or corroded. Every bolt or nut took a level of force to unlock it but then it could be undone using only fingers only. I can not recommend these engine too highly, why would you not want a V8 with six bolt main bearings, four overhead camshafts and four valves per cylinder that can rev to eight thousand RPM and deliver three hundred plus BHP before you start tuning it??? - more later.

    Regards,
    Ian


    Moving on to the front of the engine




    To remove the wiring required the removal of the timing belt




    Engine orifices blocked in preparation for cleaning the engine





    Preparation for removing the timing belt




    Loose but not yet off, yet another unidentified pump to remove!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Pilgrim Sumo Mk3; IVA Apr. 2014; RV8 3.9 EFi ; Cosworth T5; Granada Donor
    Phase Two underway - Conversion to Japanese

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Newcastle upon Tyne
    Posts
    1,697
    More pictures to go with Post #23

    Regards,
    Ian


    Impact wrench used to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt




    Crankshaft pulley came of easily with claw puller




    Extensive surface corrosion evident on front of engine block




    Water pump exposed and ready to be removed




    The pristine internals of the water chamber revealed
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Pilgrim Sumo Mk3; IVA Apr. 2014; RV8 3.9 EFi ; Cosworth T5; Granada Donor
    Phase Two underway - Conversion to Japanese

  5. #25
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Cheshire
    Age
    49
    Posts
    167
    More great posts. Can you be less enthusiastic about the engine, though, as it's going to drive the prices up

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    York
    Posts
    426
    Are you gonna have the block and heads (plus other ali parts) vapour blasted Ian?

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    West Midlands UK.
    Posts
    2,969
    Quote Originally Posted by skinnymathew View Post
    More great posts. Can you be less enthusiastic about the engine, though, as it's going to drive the prices up
    You used to be able to buy a complete LS400 for £300 and now the going rate is £850 for a bare engine.

    At this rate the spare engine in my shed is looking like one of my better investments.

    It is gratifying however to see other guys sharing the enthusiasm for one of Japans finest engines.

    Cheers,

    Tony
    Supply by blagging, engineering by bodge......

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    West Midlands UK.
    Posts
    2,969
    Quote Originally Posted by Gatwick Axe Man View Post
    Sorry to all, mini highjack.

    Could anyone who has used the Lexus engine preferably on an AK and doesn't mind doing so, PM me an email address I could send a couple of photos and some questions to. I need a second opinion/advice on an engine related "issue" that I would rather not publish on an open forum and can't send photos via a PM.

    Many thanks, Graham.
    PM Sent.

    Cheers

    Tony


    P
    Supply by blagging, engineering by bodge......

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Hampshire
    Age
    38
    Posts
    54
    Great pics! Nice one Ian.

    Quick shout out to Tony who's forum posts inspired me to get a 1UZ in the first place

    Starter motor bolts reverse - I've found a write up on lextreme with good pics (basically it's as you said but I used bolts threaded all the way to the bolt head so no need to drill out the starter holes, just screw in the opposite way, from engine front to back). Write up: http://www.lextreme.com/forums/index...er-mount.5837/

    Other bits:

    1) Here you can find all the wiring diagrams you might need (also available on lextreme.com but collated here): https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...TE2UTdiQWpjWWs

    2) The main write up on starting the engine: https://f01.justanswer.com/RbZmAlHy/...ZFE+Engine.pdf and the same doc here but with more pics: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/bui...-non-vvti.html

    3) Really brief, clear and useful info: http://www.phoenixenginemanagement.c...ion-help-page/


    4) At last someone put up a video of starting up a 1UZ, simply and accurately describing how it's done https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i1Ikybv99Dw&t=1s


    For anyone that's interested (some bits overkill I know) but I've replaced/done the following:

    Starter motor
    Fuel Injectors
    Spark plugs
    HT Leads
    Distributor Rotors
    Cam belt
    Water Pump
    Cam & crank oilseals
    EGR deleted
    Remote oil filter

    Power steering pump deleted in exchange for an electro-hydraulic pump (no room for it where it regularly sits due to the steering shaft; also I couldn't relocate it to the a/c comp. place as I'm trying to keep the a/c... I know, I know, but I like cold air on my legs...)

    A/c compressor: I've made a very simple and seemingly strong bracket which clears the chassis to allow use of a/c (whether this idea is a goer is TBC so I'll publish details on this forum if it turns out ok)

    Lastly, a while back some pics of Paul's Very tidy engine also made me think about my own. I'm building in a tiny single garage so painted the cam covers and upper intake outside one day, then (asked my wife to go out for a few hours and...) used the oven to bake them. The baking worked very well but my paint finish wasn't great and would have annoyed me so I went back to the drawing board and had the cam covers, upper and lower intake plenums and front and rear water housings acid stripped and powder coated. Here's a pic (wire tuck sleeves yet to be finished as I'm going without a lot of the plastic engine covers; ignore the temporary water header mounting; as they'll be on show I also polished the fuel rails with a dremel and painted the hard fuel lines black):

    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by mrkawamackie; 14-10-18 at 03:36 PM.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Hampshire
    Age
    38
    Posts
    54
    And I also had the carbon like staining on the inside of one of my cam covers like you and Paul. I was concerned about this but couldn't find any info on why, so it's interesting to see that we've all got the same here. Unlikely to be an issue then.

Page 3 of 7 FirstFirst 12345 ... LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •