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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Newcastle upon Tyne
    Posts
    1,729

    Sumo - Conversion to Japanese

    Hi,

    I enjoyed building the Sumo so much I have decided to do it again - well almost. As I have told everyone who will listen (a rapidly diminishing audience!) one of the most enjoyable parts of the build was the refurbishment and installation of the RV8, so another engine project was always an ambition.

    This ambition is about to be realised, or at least it has started. The engine and gearbox (a refurbished Cosworth T5) came out at the weekend and will shortly be on their way to Brussels (don't ask!), so the Sumo sits forlornly in the garage with a gaping engine bay waiting to be filled. Fortunately I have an early model Toyota 1UZ-FE engine from a Lexus Soarer sitting on an engine stand in the garage - almost like it was planned!!!

    So the project is to fit the 1UZ into the Sumo, the original plan (the subject of previous posts on this forum) was to modify the automatic gearbox to use paddle shifts. Wiser councils prevailed and this part of the project has been abandoned - I realise that the automatic gearbox, fitted as standard, has a lot of advantages but I want to use the Sumo for track days and the auto box is not conducive to this activity. So the plan now is to fit a BMW gearbox (probably a ZF unit from the E46 or E60 series) with an adapter plate & fly wheel from PMC Motorsport.

    I am very aware that I will be standing on the shoulders of giants (including TonyD, alunwill, RobCob, Highlander & GFlinders to name but a few) in this project and I am hoping for some answers to the many questions that I am sure I will have. The first of which is: Does any one have any experience of using PMC Motorsport parts in their project and are there any alternatives?

    Regards,
    Ian



    01 Removing the RV8 and T5 gearbox





    02 RV8 and T5 removed and ready to go on pallet for shipment





    03 On pallet & wrapped ready for shipment to Brussels




    04 Trial fit of the 1UZ-FE





    05 IT FITS - well nearly, further work required!









    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Ian C; 28-09-18 at 02:48 PM. Reason: typo
    Pilgrim Sumo Mk3; IVA Apr. 2014; RV8 3.9 EFi ; Cosworth T5; Granada Donor
    Phase Two underway - Conversion to Japanese

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Cheshire
    Age
    49
    Posts
    186
    Going to be watching this one with interest... plenty of pictures of clearances, mounts and headers, please!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Highlands (North of Inverness)
    Posts
    1,191
    Not used PMC myself and I went down the manual conversion route, but will be watching this thread with interest. Good luck.
    Best anti speeding device - a rear view mirror with a police car in it.
    A pedestrian - someone who thought there was still a couple of gallons in the tank.
    AK Chassis and body collected 12.12.14

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Hampshire
    Age
    38
    Posts
    60
    Hi Ian,

    I'm building a 1UZ AK at the moment, not on the road yet, about 80% there so should be ready for IVA within the next 6 months. It has a 1991 1UZ connected to a ZF E36 manual 5 speed (ZF S5D 320Z box as found in the 328 and M3).

    The reason I went with that box is that I found out about a guy called Nev Payne from Driftmoto who offers a bolt on conversion kit (custom fly wheel, adaptor plate, 3 clutch options including one off the shelf BMW clutch which I went for plus a 318 slave cylinder). Therefore all very straightforward to fit. The conversion kit does cost some upfront, as to be expected (not sure of current pricing so you'll need to find out and compare that to PMC) but the gearboxes themselves are £150, so after the initial outlay, if anything did go wrong with the gearbox it shouldn't be expensive to replace). Other advantages of this ZF gearbox is that it is relatively compact so fits easily and the gear linkage can be cut and welded to shorten and so position the gear lever wherever you want in the tunnel.

    I haven't had the opportunity to road test this yet and bought it 3 years ago based on the fact that Nev's conversion kit had been extensively used in E36 drift cars. What I can say today though, which is very encouraging, is that I joined the "1uz-fe swaps UK" group on facebook and people saying great things about him and the conversion kit come up every week, so it's still being sold and used to success. So tried and tested (not in Cobra's yet, but that's to come...).

    I'd be interested to know the details of the PMC offering you found (just for interest). The reason I say this is that when I designed my cobra project I used one of the online gearbox / diff ratio / road speed calculators to try and work out what jag diff ratio I should use in combination with this E36 ZF box. What I learned in this process is that the 5 speed box 328/M3 box has a 5th gear which is 1:1 ratio (as opposed to being overdriven as per the 6th gear of the alternative M3 EVO Getrag 6 speed box). This meant that, as I won't be drift racing to get what I considered to be sensible 70 mph motorway 1UZ rpm with a jag diff (can't recall off the top of my head what rpm that was...) it was clear that I needed to go for a jag 2.88 diff ratio rather than jag 3:31+ etc). btw 2.88 is actually very similar to the 2.93 ratio BMW used in the 328. So, I'd be interested to know what the PMC E46 conversion options are and whether they result in wider diffs options for cobra builders. What diff are you running?

    All in all though I'm very happy with my choice, it seems like a solid manual option for the 1UZ and I'm looking forward to hitting the road with it! Also, can't recommend Nev Payne and his 1uz knowledge enough. Do join the 1uz-fe swaps UK facebook group, full of useful info. cheers, Simon

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Newcastle upon Tyne
    Posts
    1,729
    Simon,

    Many thanks for your post - it is good to know that there are others on a similar journey. I have heard about Driftmoto but not being on social media means that I have had limited access (there are however advantages to NOT being on social media!). I have asked my son to join the group on my behalf and report back.

    One of the requirements, for using the PMC conversion, is the need to use a newer gearbox. The preferred option is the 6 speed ZF gearbox from the E60 or E61. I would prefer to use a 5 speed box as the torque band of the engine really does not need a six speed box. The first gear is way too low to be needed but the 5th is 1:1 and sixth is 0.835:1 which gives a reasonable spread as I am using a 3.64 LSD (I did the attached graphs in Excel - based on 3.64 final drive and with 245/45/17 tyres). The gearboxes are available for about £500 so in the scheme of things not too bad.

    Did you get the chassis modified by AK for the engine mounts and what mounts are you musing?

    Thanks again for you reply - I am sure we will swapping ideas and information over the coming months.

    Regards,
    Ian
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Pilgrim Sumo Mk3; IVA Apr. 2014; RV8 3.9 EFi ; Cosworth T5; Granada Donor
    Phase Two underway - Conversion to Japanese

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Hampshire
    Age
    38
    Posts
    60
    you're welcome Ian. People posting on this forum have helped me countless times with my build - it's good to add some more 1UZ info to it.

    Yes, AK very helpfully fabricated mounting points on the chassis using the engine and gearbox in situ to do so. These mount points are horizontally flat and M10 threaded so I'm using some ford style large bobbins (rather than the standard lexus mounts which have an angle and so wouldn't work with the flat chassis mount points).

    Just a note that the mount points on my 1UZ have a recess/hole which the engine mount nut itself is screwed into, I found it necessary to use a washer under the nut so that the nut doesn't screw too deep into this recess. If it did, a socket would no longer be able to get any purchase on the nut which would prevent future removal of the engine mount. Some sort of locking washer is ideal as on my mounts there is not enough thread for a nyloc (I'm thinking IVA here). Also, I struggled to find mounts of the correct height where the mount bolts are long enough - I found that standard Rover style V8 bobbin mounts have a threaded section that was too short once through the 1UZ's mount points meaning that a nut didn't fully go on. Therefore if you do use bobbins rather than the Lexus mounts I'd recommend using ones with a threaded section of at least 25mm (20-22mm is just a bit too short) and also, perhaps obvious but select your mounts first and ensure you're happy with the fitted result before you go ahead and modify your chassis. The reason i say this is that I previously sourced some mounts with a good amount of thread, but these were taller and my bonnet didn't shut (oh the joys of Cobra engine bay space... ) so you want to be sure you have ones that fit the 1UZ well and that there will be no need to change them for another height after your chassis mount points are made. I'd be interested to know whether any others have run into this

    Also, as per Paul I've got a remote oil filter setup.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Hampshire
    Age
    38
    Posts
    60
    Looks like I need to go and read up on how to resize / rotate images, but you get the idea...

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    Last edited by mrkawamackie; 04-10-18 at 09:39 AM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Newcastle upon Tyne
    Posts
    1,729
    Simon,

    I am busy comparing the 1UZ's size and position in the car with the RV8 & T5 setup to check the angles of the U/J in the propshaft - I don't want to undo all my good work. I am hoping to squeeze another few mm of ground clearance under the sump guard and still be able to close the bonnet. Thank you for the heads up on the engine mounts, good to know.



    I have started tinkering with the wiring, undoing all the looms ready for identifying the various circuits. Very impressed with the way the engine is put together, everything nicely loomed, threaded through convoluted trunking, taped then placed in moulded cable trays. Lovely but a pain when you are trying to strip it back. Found the first problem whilst working on the wiring, the Throttle Position Sensor is missing! I bought the engine without the ECU as I was intending to use an after market engine management system as part of the installation. The missing sensor was not noticed on the pictures prior to purchase - caveat emptor!!!!

    Does any one have a spare sensor they are willing to part with or can anyone point me in the direction of a supplier / source for the TPS?

    Regards,
    Ian








    Attached Images Attached Images
    Pilgrim Sumo Mk3; IVA Apr. 2014; RV8 3.9 EFi ; Cosworth T5; Granada Donor
    Phase Two underway - Conversion to Japanese

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Hampshire
    Age
    38
    Posts
    60
    I suggest putting a post on the 1UZFE swaps fb group to see if anyone has a spare. I believe there were 3 and 4 pin types so best to specify the year of your engine and check your loom to see how many pins you're looking for. If you get stuck, sometimes throttle bodies are sold on ebay which have them attached.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Hampshire
    Age
    38
    Posts
    60
    Hi Ian, I just had a thought and wanted to post it in case I forget:

    while you haven't yet installed the 1UZ, you might consider changing the starter motor for a new one while it's relatively easy to do as in general it's a pig to get to, up to you. Either way, the heads of the bolts which attach the starter motor to the engine point towards the rear of the car. With my own manual conversion this meant that the gearbox adaptor plate is actually fitted over the top of the bolt heads so in future it would be impossible to change the starter motor without first removing the gearbox. To future proof against this headache I therefore reversed the bolts (also changed them for some slightly longer ones and added a nut I recall). I've seen that reversing the starter motor bolts is not an uncommon thing for people to do on the 1UZ and it now means that I (only?) have to remove the upper and lower intake manifolds to get to it. Something to keep in mind as your gearbox adaptor plate may or may not block access to these bolt heads.

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