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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
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    Barton Mills,Bury st Edmunds,Suffolk
    Age
    48
    Posts
    216

    Question McLeod hydraulic release bearing?

    Can anyone help me with the above not working correctly? This bearing is concentric and is fitted in the bellhousing but after bleeding it the clutch pedal is solid and will only depress when you crack the bleed nipple to release fluid. To fit you have to take various measurements and add or remove spacers accordingly which I think after taking the gearbox out again and re shimming we are right with, ideas please?
    Would anyone know a race or engineering company that specialise in this sort of thing? I am waiting for a response from McLeod Tech.
    Cheers Mark
    mark chambers
    Dax de Dion 350 Chevy

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Marlow
    Age
    67
    Posts
    1,724
    Hi, I have just changed my clutch from a twin plate set up to a single plate one. Both being mcloud , they informed me that no change was required in the bellows position. The engine came out 3 times before the correct shims were found. My advice would be junk the central bellows and fit a external slave cylinder!
    Cheers Clive

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Barton Mills,Bury st Edmunds,Suffolk
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    48
    Posts
    216
    Hi Clive, when I bought the box second hand I didn't realise that they had changed the fork operation as when I was trying to sort with Real Steel what I needed I was told that the external slave would foul the oil filter on a SBC and that the fork pushes front to back as opposed to back to front if that makes sense. I am using an ordinary 0.875 bore girdling type master cylinder at the pedal box but just can't workout what's not happening? Thanks for your reply.
    Mark
    mark chambers
    Dax de Dion 350 Chevy

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    NW England
    Posts
    323
    If the pedal is solid that means the slave piston has reached the end of its stroke (assuming the McLeod has a hard stop) or whatever it is pushing against is unable to move. Did you do your measurements with the bearing contracted?
    I would not suggest junking the CRB I'm using one (not McLeod) and very happy with it.
    Remember the bearing needs to retract more aso the clutch wears.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Barton Mills,Bury st Edmunds,Suffolk
    Age
    48
    Posts
    216
    Thanks for your reply, it is a bolt on type as the clearance needed was less than 3" for the slip on type, as an item it comes with fitted with three 0.150" shims so I fitted it thinking we were right but got the solid pedal. So after recalculating thought I'd measured wrong and left 1 shim the gearbox back in and after bleeding back to the solid pedal. I know that they say it is a constant running bearing but although it's touching the clutch fingers I'm now thinking I need the longer piston that they can supply to get more travel and compress the clutch cover fingers more as it's not returning the bearing or does it not operate like that?? All help greatly appreciated.
    Mark
    mark chambers
    Dax de Dion 350 Chevy

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Barton Mills,Bury st Edmunds,Suffolk
    Age
    48
    Posts
    216
    Sorry yes it was compressed both times.
    mark chambers
    Dax de Dion 350 Chevy

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    wakefield
    Posts
    55
    Just a thought but is the clutch plate in the correct way, the longer flange might be touching the bearing if it's in wrong giving you no play. Had this once on a Clio. John

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Barton Mills,Bury st Edmunds,Suffolk
    Age
    48
    Posts
    216
    Thanks John, I will double check that as well.
    Since posting this McLeod have been in touch and I need to take gearbox out and double check all of my measurements as GD Cobra says the piston has reached the end of its travel so likely I need a longer piston that is about $155 plus shipping but Real Steel should be able to order that for me. I haven't had too many hick ups so far and this one has been a little challenging so far, thanks for all replies it's good to be able to get info from here!
    Mark
    ps I will update as it progresses for anybody's future reference.
    mark chambers
    Dax de Dion 350 Chevy

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    NW England
    Posts
    323
    When I did mine I created some spacers, same thickness as the minimum friction plate (7mm or thereabouts), this means the pressure plate fingers would be at maximum extension. I then took a measurement to the bell housing mount face. Using this measurement I worked out where the face of the, fully contracted, release bearing needed to be and made up a mounting plate to put the bearing in the correct location (I added a bit of clearance for good measure).

    Presumably you mouted everything together with the piston retracted?
    Did you check that the piston extends before you put it all together?
    Was the pedal hard right away or did you get some movement first?

    If your pedal is rock hard from the off it would indicate the piston is blocked by something (presumably the clutch mechanism - what else could it be?) or it is jammed.
    If you initially got movement and then it went hard that would indicate you've pumped enough fluid to fully extend the piston but the clutch spring is not pushing it back.
    If that's the case you are either not contacting the spring (piston set too far back) or the fluid is not able to return to the master cylinder.
    Does the clutch disengage?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Barton Mills,Bury st Edmunds,Suffolk
    Age
    48
    Posts
    216
    Yes it was put in retracted and when we started the first bleed I was convinced that I had the fluid lines into the master cylinder the wrong way around as that's what I found on the internet so I changed them around which wasn't a massive job but a pain, so we then went to bleed and got no fluid so changed them back so I now have the feed from reservoir to the rear port and the line to the bearing from the front port this is a girling type of cylinder and that's looking at it from the front of the car. We got lots of air out and the pedal seemed to get there but then go, after which time we stopped it was then when the bleed nipple was shut the pedal went solid. I have an endoscope which I looked in the box and could see all of the spacers and that really says the bearing had pumped out, after removing it there were tiny little marks where the fingers had touched but as you state I don't think it's extending enough to use the fingers to string return if that's how it works? So were now going to start again by just removing the gearbox leaving the bellhousing so that I can get the measurements all again then I'm going to send them to McLeod and we should then get the correct piston, as they have a YouTube vid that says if you measure and send that prior to order they will supply the correct piston already fitted. Oh how wonderful hindsight is! I'm in agreement with your comment it's not returning as the diaphragm spring fingers aren't compressed enough to return it?
    mark chambers
    Dax de Dion 350 Chevy

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