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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Leeds
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    2,735

    Door Latch repair

    After my last trip out which had me having problems getting into and out of the car due to the door handle not working and me having to climb over the door onto the seat to get it, i set about trying to resolve the problem.

    My searching found this thread (i've since found a few more on different sites)

    http://www.linger.com/cobra/doorlatchrepair.htm

    So, if anyone is having a problem with intermittent door opening and are using the same door handles, then hopefully this thread will give you a way to repair rather than have to by new.

    1. What is the problem
    On moving handle to open door, the bolt doesn't move and door doesn't open. The handle appears to operate ok, just the door fails to open

    2. Reason for the above:
    The handle mechanism is held onto a 1/2" square drive pivot. The square drive part is 'peened' over the handle part, but the 'peened' part wares out:



    image above shows handle over 1/2" square drive pivot, whilst the following image, shows the handle adrift from the pivot due to the 'peened' over section having warn - it not as severe as the pic shows, but it gives you an idea of what is going on



    So, as the handle is being moved, the torque instead of being transferred to the pivot, causes the handle to lift away from the drive pivot and hence not pull the bolt back and open the door.

    To resolve this, in the above url they used a carriage bolt, i didn't have any to hand, and thought as i've a lathe/mill combo, i'd reproduce the square drive pivot part and drill and tap the center hole for an M8 bolt instead.

    This is the result (poor photo, doh!)



    original item is the darker grey one at bottom of pic, new one is made out of a piece of 2" diameter aluminium bar i had that i turned down to correct diameter on the lathe, them milled the square part (not perfect as collet chuck kept coming loose from milling head - ) - but it fitted pretty good. I then tapped the hole in the new square'ish drive pivot for M8 bolt, cut the bolt so it would sit flush with the back of the door latch (and not scratch or damage door skin) and fitted a couple of washers between bolt and pivot:



    The bolt sits lower than the highest point of the latch body, so the cover fits without any mods needing to be made.



    Note the split pin in the foreground of the above pic. This is used to stop the latch bolt from coming out. There is a U shaped metal cup, that the spring locates on, which pushes against the latch bolt.


    Hope this helps someone having the same issue - Replacement door latches aren't cheap - £150+ for a set, so this may save you some money

    rgds
    Gary
    Last edited by nealgs; 01-10-18 at 10:56 AM.
    Conny - A Carnival Red Metallic (paint code Ref: Jag CGG/1811) Southern Roadcraft V8 ( SRV8 ) with 383ci stroker chevy.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Finchampstead, Berkshire, UK.
    Age
    53
    Posts
    3,457
    Nice write up and great tip !!

    Jim

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Leeds
    Posts
    2,735
    lol - thanks Jim, was hoping i wasn't going to have to be splashing out more money on repairs, it's already been an expensive year

    Gary
    Conny - A Carnival Red Metallic (paint code Ref: Jag CGG/1811) Southern Roadcraft V8 ( SRV8 ) with 383ci stroker chevy.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    East Leake, Nottinghamshire, England.
    Age
    54
    Posts
    9,360
    Make a good article for the club Mag as this is something that has happened to a few of us.
    Martin

    351W 416.7 HP and 466.8 ft-lbs

    Running Mega Squirt and Edis 8


  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Stourport on Severn
    Age
    60
    Posts
    218
    Good write up.
    I had same problem but fixed it with flat head bolt and a couple of thin washers and a nylock.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Cheers
    Steve

    My missus asked me to build her a Cobra! – How good is that!

    AK Gen2 chassis arrived 12/2/15 IVA Passed 2/7/18 on road 29/7/18
    http://stevesakcobrabuild.blogspot.com

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Leeds
    Posts
    2,735
    Will see about mag article Martin - what would you need from me?

    Nicely done Steve, did you just tap the original square drive hole for the bolt, or replaced that completely and used a washer each site with the nyloc on the back - does it stick out the back at all or is it flush?

    rgds
    Gary
    Conny - A Carnival Red Metallic (paint code Ref: Jag CGG/1811) Southern Roadcraft V8 ( SRV8 ) with 383ci stroker chevy.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Stourport on Severn
    Age
    60
    Posts
    218
    Hi Gary, yes I used a washer on the back and a nylock. This means the back isn’t flush so had to drill out the door card and plate to accommodate but was easy to do.
    Cheers
    Steve

    My missus asked me to build her a Cobra! – How good is that!

    AK Gen2 chassis arrived 12/2/15 IVA Passed 2/7/18 on road 29/7/18
    http://stevesakcobrabuild.blogspot.com

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