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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Christchurch, NZ
    Age
    58
    Posts
    2,281

    Myles' odds & sods

    I build my Ram in the late '80s and although I've put a few thousand miles on it, it has spent a lot of time in storage.

    I've finally got the time and space to give it a go over, to put right some of the things that need improvement so I thought I'd start a thread for it. Quite interesting to go through something you built 30 years ago and see how things have lasted.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Cheers

    Myles D-W

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Toton, Nottinghamshire
    Age
    46
    Posts
    846
    All the best for your RAM overhaul. Look forward to hearing what you find.

    Russ.
    Joint Area Rep - East Midlands Region
    1984 DAX Cobra
    Rover 3.5 V8 with Holley carburetor.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Shipston-On-Stour
    Posts
    40
    Good luck! I did my 30 year old Dax last year in similar circumstances. I think it was last used in anger about 20 years ago! Amazing how good it looks after all that time. I had to put a new tank in (previous MGB one was rusted internally) and drop out the rear end to do the inboard brakes and calipers. I decided to re-pipe the front brakes but the front calipers were actually still in good order. Other than that it was the usual stuff plus a bit of fiddling with the wiring. I also put LED bulbs in the headlights (after driving it in the dark you quickly realise how good modern headlights are by comparison!). I also bought a single post lift - if only I had had one when I built it! Have fun
    Dax with 1964 Dual Quad 427 and Toploader box

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Christchurch, NZ
    Age
    58
    Posts
    2,281

    Myles' odds & sods

    In the world of engineering, and particularly software we use the term 'scope creep' for when a job turns out to be bigger than expected. When messing with cars there is also the dreaded 'while you're about it' factor that pretty much doubles the time and cost of any job. So...

    The original plan was to whip the engine out, fit some nice new parts to make it run better, stick it back in and enjoy using the car for a while before having a session on the body.

    To remove the engine and gearbox I needed to remove the gear-stick.

    To remove the gear-stick I needed to remove the carpet

    To remove the carpet I needed to remove the roll bar

    The roll bar was totally jammed into its sockets in the chassis. I tried penetrating oil, I hung the car from the roll bar, I tried blocks and jacks without any success.

    P1040043.JPG

    So I had to remove the seats and cut a large hole in the rear bulkhead

    P1040041.JPG

    I then split the two sockets with a cutting disc but still it would not budge at all. In the end I had to cut one leg off the roll bar. It finally came loose.

    P1040044.JPG

    Lesson learned: The roll bar was WAY to tight in its sockets with too much engagement and once a little corrosion had taken place it was never going to move. Generous use of copper grease may have helped here.

    So now the chassis needed mending which means the body needs to come off...
    Last edited by mylesdw; 25-02-19 at 05:40 PM.
    Cheers

    Myles D-W

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Christchurch, NZ
    Age
    58
    Posts
    2,281
    A few friends round and it's off

    P1040052.JPG
    P1040051.JPG

    Engine out

    P1040054.JPG

    and outside for a clean

    P1040056.JPG

    The original chassis coating from Ram has stood up well with very little rust, as have the various components I had powder coated.

    Copper grease is amazing stuff - I assembled pretty much everything with it and it all came apart like it was built yesterday. Even the grease on the fasteners looks fresh and new.

    Thirty year old fuel hoses definitely need checking - the one on the bulkhead pretty much snapped off it was so brittle.

    Some rubber components such as the boots on the ball joints are knackered.
    Cheers

    Myles D-W

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Newcastle upon Tyne
    Posts
    1,849
    Myles,

    It is like watching a reverse build thread - perhaps we need an "Unbuild" section. Obviously been well built in the first place!, good luck with the rebuild.

    Regards,
    Ian
    Pilgrim Sumo Mk3; IVA Apr. 2014; RV8 3.9 EFi ; Cosworth T5; Granada Donor
    Phase Two underway - Conversion to Japanese

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Newark, Notts
    Age
    69
    Posts
    1,483
    Suggest you do an article for Snake Torque Magazine. Graham is always short of input
    Charlie
    Joint Area Rep - East Midlands Region
    AKCharlie - ''AKA SOOTY'' - AK GEN2 - LS3 - 6.2litre - 434bhp - A dream come true
    .

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Christchurch, NZ
    Age
    58
    Posts
    2,281
    It's all rather bitty at the moment but I am not against the idea of writing the odd article if that helps. You'd need to let me know who Graham is.
    Cheers

    Myles D-W

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Newark, Notts
    Age
    69
    Posts
    1,483
    Graham Heatrick is Editor of Snake Torque Magazine. As the upgrade moves forward Graham can add your story to each edition. There are 4 editions per year. He likes photos but needs to be 1mb for good photo quality. I assume you belong to the Uk Cobra Replica Club? If not you can join at www.ukcobraclub.co.uk

    Articles send to - magazine@ukcobraclub.co.uk
    Cheers
    Charlie

    Quote Originally Posted by mylesdw View Post
    It's all rather bitty at the moment but I am not against the idea of writing the odd article if that helps. You'd need to let me know who Graham is.
    Joint Area Rep - East Midlands Region
    AKCharlie - ''AKA SOOTY'' - AK GEN2 - LS3 - 6.2litre - 434bhp - A dream come true
    .

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Christchurch, NZ
    Age
    58
    Posts
    2,281
    Any Ram owners fit the optional front anti-roll bar and if not does the car drive fine without it?

    I fitted it but it is not well engineered and I suspect it does little more than make the front suspension bind. I'm considering removing it.
    Cheers

    Myles D-W

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