Its official, i hate the jag handbrake

[mylesdw]

A couple of pictures of the Ram installation that I have not had any issues with. The cable is not connected to the hand-brake lever in the pictures, you can see the bar hanging from the end of the cable.

P1040068.JPGP1040067.JPG

[ChrisP]

I don’t trust any handbrake with pre 1970 heritage!! As I said, mine just about works with the standard set up and adapted jag lever but I would not leave the car anywhere without it being in gear! Same applies to the line locks. They are just about convenience but definitely hold better than the jag handbrake. If you put them on the front they are great for burnouts too!!

[GDCobra]

Well I made a right mess of that didn't I?

[GDCobra]

Wonder if any different between manufacturers?
You got any pictures of cable route and handbrake GD by any chance please, oh and is yours inboard jag discs on your GD?
Reg
Gav

Don't have any photo's at the moment but my cable links directly across the caliper levers similar to mylesdw's in post #21, no complicated levers involved. The big diffefence is that my cable then sweeps to the offside of the car in a large radius arc to the 'drop down' XJS handbrake lever, o S bend. Still on inboard disks but I'm working at the moment to change this to use the drum inside the outboard disk setup which I put on the car several years back.

[dinosoar]

Now I could be wrong with what I am about to write as it is many years since I played with the jag system on my old Dax but i do remember the conclusion from my analysis and it could perhaps help.
My old Dax used an Mgb handbrake and linked directly vis cable across the levers.
The original xj6 system used an umberella type operating lever which has huge travel.
The large travel is required to let the ratcheting self adjusters in each arm work.
My Mg handbrake did not allow enough travel to let these work.
The conclusion was to drop off the cable and operate the levers by hand to engage a couple of ratchet clicks and reassemble.
There was then a good handbrake within the range of the mgb lever until you forget and drive off with it engaged or indulge in too many handbrake turns.
Whereupon repeat of the above would restore service.
I can’t really remember how efficient mine was. After all I do live in East Anglia.
But it was certainly good enough for mot time each year.
Of course you could bugger about with lever lengths to mimic the umbrella travel but the operation to gain adjustment was not real difficulty.

A

[cperry]

I’m reminded of some recurring words of wisdom I’ve heard at work.....

1. You can’t polish a turd (but you can roll it in glitter)

And

2. A glass eye shoved in a dog arse can see that’s not going to work.

And of course.

3. Go electric, it’s like chalk and cheese.

[AKCharlie]

Agree with Craig, go electric - You know you want to!!

[Gav]

He he, started something now....
Feel better its just not me though
Reg
Gav

[aaronjb]

2. A glass eye shoved in a dog arse can see that’s not going to work.

I've never heard that one before.. I shall use it at every possible opportunity, now!

[GDCobra]

The only problem with going electric is that if you don't know why it's not working simply changing the actuator mechanism may not solve your problem.
If your problem is in the calipers themselves changing how you operate them won't improve things.
I like the idea of simply connecting the cable across the 2 operating arms (and not having tight bends in the cable back to the lever) as there is nothing to reduce the force applied at the lever, it all goes directly to the mechanism.

My rule is, if I have a problem and I start adding complexity I'm going further away from a solution rather than close to.

If the calipers are working correctly and the force from the handbrake lever is being transmitted to them this arrangement can and does work.