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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    NW England
    Posts
    390
    Quote Originally Posted by andy pandy View Post
    Not being funny but your average halfords employee will be lucky if they managed to dress them selves
    I believe they are given a "cheat sheet" these days with a diagram which points out which bit is their elbow and which bit is their arse (am I allowed to say that?)

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Northampton
    Posts
    1,541
    Quote Originally Posted by GDCobra View Post
    I believe they are given a "cheat sheet" these days with a diagram which points out which bit is their elbow and which bit is their arse (am I allowed to say that?)
    You just have!
    Dek

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Northampton
    Posts
    1,541
    Paul I have a similar problem and was thinking along similar lines. But the I wondered if this is the correct way of tackling it. I was thinking perhaps the inlet manifold should come off, re-sealed or gasket (which is best?) then bolts sealed and torqued down in sequence. This is not a criticism but I genuinely don’t know which is the correct approach. Is it possible to take for example one bolt out at a time and have no effect on the manifold seal? Would be pleased to hear that it does not because it would make the job much quicker! Anyone can advise us?
    Dek

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Rugby,West Midlands.
    Age
    60
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    582
    Quote Originally Posted by Dek View Post
    Paul I have a similar problem and was thinking along similar lines. But the I wondered if this is the correct way of tackling it. I was thinking perhaps the inlet manifold should come off, re-sealed or gasket (which is best?) then bolts sealed and torqued down in sequence. This is not a criticism but I genuinely don’t know which is the correct approach. Is it possible to take for example one bolt out at a time and have no effect on the manifold seal? Would be pleased to hear that it does not because it would make the job much quicker! Anyone can advise us?
    Dek
    Agreed it would be time consuming replacing the gasket, or in my case scraping of all the gasket sealer. My inlet manifold gasket isn’t causing any problems, i am just getting small amounts of oil weeping up past the bolts on each end, as according to Mike Huddart, these holes go through to the "lifter valley". The correct, but time consuming way of doing it, is as you say, is to remove all bolts, which then necessitates removing manifold and fitting a new gasket, then torque bolts down in sequence. However, as my Mother had a stroke just before Xmas, and is in a bad way, my main priority at the moment is getting her out of the horrible nursing home she is in and into a decent one near me. So i showed the Master Tech at the garage i get the cobra MOT'd ,which specialises in old classic sports cars, and he said that as it’s just the two bolts at each end ,i would get away with just removing one bolt at a time , as the manifold is such a solid item and wont deform ,thus not disturbing the gasket .
    This of course is after I have fitted a sump guard, wrapped the exhaust manifolds, cured my heat soak problem, and ,and ,and
    Paul.

    AK Huddart Chevy 383 Stroker, BMW Royal Grey Metal Metallic , 5 speed Jaguar Getrag , Holley 670cfm 4 barrel street Avenger Carb, 450 BHP at flywheel , 460 Ibs/ft torque, and luvin it !

    " We dont stop playing because we grow old, we grow old because we stop playing" - George Bernard Shaw.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    East Leake, Nottinghamshire, England.
    Age
    54
    Posts
    9,450
    My mate had a similar problem on his Chevy. We just removed the bolts one at a time, cleaned the threads and then applied some silicone to the thread and under the head and re-tightened. Worked a treat with no problems after.
    Martin

    351W 416.7 HP and 466.8 ft-lbs

    Running Mega Squirt and Edis 8


  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Northampton
    Posts
    1,541
    Quote Originally Posted by psh View Post
    Agreed it would be time consuming replacing the gasket, or in my case scraping of all the gasket sealer. My inlet manifold gasket isn’t causing any problems, i am just getting small amounts of oil weeping up past the bolts on each end, as according to Mike Huddart, these holes go through to the "lifter valley". The correct, but time consuming way of doing it, is as you say, is to remove all bolts, which then necessitates removing manifold and fitting a new gasket, then torque bolts down in sequence. However, as my Mother had a stroke just before Xmas, and is in a bad way, my main priority at the moment is getting her out of the horrible nursing home she is in and into a decent one near me. So i showed the Master Tech at the garage i get the cobra MOT'd ,which specialises in old classic sports cars, and he said that as it’s just the two bolts at each end ,i would get away with just removing one bolt at a time , as the manifold is such a solid item and wont deform ,thus not disturbing the gasket .
    This of course is after I have fitted a sump guard, wrapped the exhaust manifolds, cured my heat soak problem, and ,and ,and
    Think if it’s just a couple of bolts can’t see you will disturb the seal. Certainly worth a try. What sealant exactly are you planning to use?
    Dek

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Northampton
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    1,541
    Quote Originally Posted by TINKA View Post
    My mate had a similar problem on his Chevy. We just removed the bolts one at a time, cleaned the threads and then applied some silicone to the thread and under the head and re-tightened. Worked a treat with no problems after.

    Did you remove the bolts in any particular sequence Martin? I tried silicone but didn’t find it very effective even after cleaning the bolt threads with thinners. I think this was because it’s very difficult to clean the head threads. Silicone doesn’t seem to stick well to oily surfaces. Plus it’s a real bugger to remove if you then want to try something else.
    Dek

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Leicester
    Posts
    188
    I would almost certainly use Loctite 577. Good at sealing and medium grip but easy to undo if needed. Also works pretty well on surfaces that are not perfectly clean.
    Lee
    Chairman UKCC

    DAX De Dion, 400 BHP 6.0 LS2, French Racing Blue
    GD427 mk3, 325BHP 5.0 RV8, Blue - SOLD

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    York
    Posts
    464
    Brake cleaner would be a better choice for removing the oil from the threads etc. Believe it or not, this stuff might be worth a try re. sealing:

    https://www.sealantsandtoolsdirect.c...ck_P25593.html

    Nice price too. Hope you get it sorted.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Oxfordshire
    Age
    67
    Posts
    1,589
    Hi Paul.

    An alternative suggestion - how about using 3/8" Dowty washers/seals?
    Alan

    CRC Thames Valley Regional Rep
    UK Rep for European Cobra Club (eurocobra.boards.net)
    Dax 427 DeDion - Huddart SBC 383

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