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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Nova Scotia
    Posts
    794

    Knock-Off Spinner Hammers

    For those of you with knock-offs, what type of hammer do you use?

    I've been using a length of wood I place against an ear. It's long enough to rise above the fender and I hit it with a 2 lb steel maul.

    Seems to work fine, although the softwood splits easily. Hardwood would be better.

    Not liking this method I decided I ought to have a lead hammer. Not being locally available, I bought a rubber encapsulated dead-blow hammer. Seems to work fine to, but neither it nor the wood method achieves that tell-tale ringing when the spinner is firmly tight.

    I can purchase a lead hammer through the internet, but I think if I really want one, I'll make one. I even have a crucible full of once melted lead along with pipe for a handle, etc. Not a money saving endeavour, but rather a fun project.

    But back to my question and maybe a more specific one: Do any of you use a dead-blow hammer and if you do, are you satisfied with it?

    John

    “A prudent person profits from personal experience, a wise one from the experience of others.”

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Shropshire/Wales Border
    Age
    48
    Posts
    5,937
    Lloyd B
    Current: Crendon #54 in build - 427 Side Oiler/Cobrajet Heads/Dual 600cfm Holleys/4 speed toploader/Vintage cast knock on wheels
    Dedion Dax/Clarkson 383 Chevy with roller 4/7 swap cam, AFR195 heads - SOLD

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    West Sussex
    Posts
    8,505
    I think the lead one is the one to go for as it can deform on the spinner ear, so so softening the impact.
    Only available in the US it seems.
    Crendon Chassis No.49
    Huddart FE428 + toploader

    Not listed in the Shelby Register.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Reading, Berks, UK.
    Posts
    1,568
    Lead hammer here, tried all the others and this was the only one that felt right. Mind you they don't last long

    Cheers

    David

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    York
    Posts
    468
    These look to be available....

    https://www.thorhammer.com/mallets/lead.html

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    West Sussex
    Posts
    8,505
    Quote Originally Posted by String View Post
    These look to be available....

    https://www.thorhammer.com/mallets/lead.html
    - good find. They weren't when i bought mine.
    I would go for the heaviest.
    Crendon Chassis No.49
    Huddart FE428 + toploader

    Not listed in the Shelby Register.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    York
    Posts
    468
    Quote Originally Posted by KevinW View Post
    - good find. They weren't when i bought mine.
    I would go for the heaviest.
    Noted, thanks. Will be needing one in the not too distant future, but I’ll be buying rather than making I think. Bob from Vintage thought these will do the job. Cheers.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Hertfordshire
    Posts
    494
    Lead hammer purchased from Amazon. Works great having tried everything else. Also does not bounce back off when struck.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Christchurch, NZ
    Age
    58
    Posts
    2,281
    To be honest tightening threaded fasteners with a hammer is a bit hit and miss (pun intended). Quite apart from the possibility of damaging something it is hard to believe you can get anything like consistent tightness. I think I would be looking at a special tool that would engage nicely on the spinner and a big bar.
    Cheers

    Myles D-W

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    York
    Posts
    468
    Something like this?

    http://knockoffspinnertool.com/cobra...brand_spinners

    Must be popular...

    I believe it is a change in “note” you are listening for when using the lead mallet, indicating its correct stopping point?

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