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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    West Sussex
    Posts
    8,278
    1200rpm seems low to me, but i guess they know their product.

    The Pilgrim cooling system is, imho a PITA. I fitted a bleed hole in the top coolant pipe- see pic.
    To get the air out you really need to elevate the rear as high as possible in order to get the header tank to be the highest point in the system.
    The car then needs to get up to temperature, and then you need to rev it to force the air out.
    The eruption you saw yesterday was exactly what I had - I was advised to run with the cap off to help the air bubbles burb their way out. There were quite a few eruptions (although I didnt have any fire!), until it settled down.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by KevinW; Today at 11:59 AM.
    Crendon Chassis No.49
    Huddart FE428 + toploader

    Not listed in the Shelby Register.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Paignton Devon
    Posts
    282
    Re the timing, go back to basics, take off the n/s can cover, put a thin rod down number 1 spark plug hole and turn the engine watching the valves until you get to tdc on the firing stroke, next set the distributor so the rotor arm is just very slightly about to contact a post on the cap , doesn't matter which one, then rearrange the plug leads in the correct firing order, this should get you very basically at a firing point once started you then need a timing light to adjust it properly, sorry if that's a bit granny sucking eggs but I've been caught out plenty of times by a basic mistake

  3. #33
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Plymouth
    Age
    42
    Posts
    133
    Firstly I would like to thank you all for your advice and encouragement I could have easily thrown in the towel last night.

    After spending the day at work thinking all this over and reading all the comments and other threads (clearly I didn't get a lot of work done) I came home determined to go through everything systematically and have another go.

    Well I realised that with the distributor in the original position (correct as per Haynes manual) the rotor arm would hit cylinder 1 first but was not very close to it, therefore the timing was seriously retarded. I removed the distributor and moved the rotor arm on one tooth on the drive gear and everything seamed much better. Prior to starting the engine I decided to remove the heat wrap primarily as it was soaked with antifreeze so I knew either a fire or at least considerable smoke. I connected up my timing gun in preparation and started the engine, as soon as it fired I could tell instantly it was much better. I checked the timing and exactly 12 deg BTDC, happy days. I wasn't out the woods yet as I needed to do the dreaded 20min cam run in. I realised (it doesn't take a genius) that 20 mins varying revs up to 2500 wasn't going to happen in my garage at very least I would be lucky to survive. So I backed the car out into the service lane and nervously, at first, started the running in. I am very pleased to say that everything behaved brilliantly and I have now run in the cam. I think the problem with the expansion tank cap yesterday was it wasn't on properly but don't tell anyone!!

    Clearly I had plenty of things on my mind and filming wasn't really one of them but I did capture a brief 20 seconds or so towards the end of the 20 mins. I was gaining more confidence and enjoying listening to the engine I built. I am sure there is still going to be a few things to sort and fine tune but I feel I have reached a major milestone and once again thank you for all your help.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FcwjVRoH9f0
    Granada based Pilgrim Sumo with RV8 - May 2017
    YouTube Build diary:
    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJnGMrv_CkERYzoG68enTGg

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Newcastle upon Tyne
    Posts
    1,818
    James,

    Well done, congratulations. Now sit back with a glass of red and relive the highlights before thinking about when you first have to drive it!!

    I knew you could do it, but even four hundred miles away I would have appreciated a warning that you were going to try again - just in case!

    Take care,
    Ian
    Pilgrim Sumo Mk3; IVA Apr. 2014; RV8 3.9 EFi ; Cosworth T5; Granada Donor
    Phase Two underway - Conversion to Japanese

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    liverpool
    Age
    45
    Posts
    333
    Glad it turned out that you were able to enjoy it, as you say a large milestone 🍺

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    NW England
    Posts
    374
    This really is a pain to get right. There looks to be plenty of space around the dizzy but when you takin into account the things which stick out of the sides you don't get much of an opportunity for a great arc of movemtent.
    You can mount it at any orientation, although the slot in the gear has to engage with the oil pump drive shaft there is no problem turning that around. What I always focus on is getting the body in a position which will give the most movement and then getting the shaft in a position where it's close to lining up one of the points of the wheel with the sensor then put the leads in the correct place.

    Good to here you have it right now.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Oxford
    Posts
    529
    Great news, well done for persevering with it. This is why I like a build thread, when you are not sure post it up and you nearly always get enough guidance to have the confidence to tackle things.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    West Sussex
    Posts
    8,278
    Well done!
    have also enjoyed perusing your vids this evening.
    Crendon Chassis No.49
    Huddart FE428 + toploader

    Not listed in the Shelby Register.

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