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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Northampton
    Age
    41
    Posts
    3,841
    Taps & dies, rivnut set (Memfast one) as Kuga says are invaluable (and necessary) - but to be honest, I'd buy specific taps & dies I needed rather than a cheap set.. depending on manufacturer you are likely to be using a mix of UNC, UNF and metric threads and a) the cheap metric sets are shite and b) imperial sets are expensive. Reasonable quality taps & dies can be had off Amazon in the sizes you'll need (things like 5/8 UNC, 5/8 UNF, M9 fine for XJ40 brakes .. or was it M7, I can check..)

    Brake flaring tools - forget the cheap £10 sets, they're only useful for flaring the ends of the bundy tube for the wipers IMHO! Get either a decent hand-held one (£90 ish) or the one from Automec (£200) .. I have both because the Automec one is far easier to use on the bench, but sometimes the bench wont fit under the car plus a cheap bender (£20) and deburr tool (£20) and cutter (£20 unless your HVAC stuff cuts small pipe well - standard rotary cutters for 15mm copper don't, they crimp the cut too much)

    I can't believe nobody has said a compressor yet.. air tools are great. If you build a Dax you'll need to rivet the body to the chassis before the adhesive dries, and your chances of doing that with a hand powered riveter are nil - compressor driven riveter is pretty much mandatory there. AK attaches the body differently IIRC, and GD bolts it to the chassis with rubber bobbins like a Land Rover, so maybe you can do without a compressor for those ones (and given your location, perhaps AK is the preferred supplier as they are on your doorstep)

    I've probably spent a grand or more on tools alone.

    As for the kit build, work out what you think it will cost and then double it You're probably looking at a £30-50k build cost these days considering the price has gone up on everything (Windscreen - £900, gearbox - £2k etc), unless you do a lot of second hand finding and/or go for a Q plate.
    My DeDion build diary..
    Hon Sec of the Digidash branch of the Unpopular Kit Car Design club

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    West Sussex
    Posts
    8,505
    Quote Originally Posted by aaronjb View Post
    Taps & dies, rivnut set (Memfast one) as Kuga says are invaluable (and necessary) - but to be honest, I'd buy specific taps & dies I needed rather than a cheap set.. depending on manufacturer you are likely to be using a mix of UNC, UNF and metric threads and a) the cheap metric sets are shite and b) imperial sets are expensive. Reasonable quality taps & dies can be had off Amazon in the sizes you'll need (things like 5/8 UNC, 5/8 UNF, M9 fine for XJ40 brakes .. or was it M7, I can check..)

    Brake flaring tools - forget the cheap £10 sets, they're only useful for flaring the ends of the bundy tube for the wipers IMHO! Get either a decent hand-held one (£90 ish) or the one from Automec (£200) .. I have both because the Automec one is far easier to use on the bench, but sometimes the bench wont fit under the car plus a cheap bender (£20) and deburr tool (£20) and cutter (£20 unless your HVAC stuff cuts small pipe well - standard rotary cutters for 15mm copper don't, they crimp the cut too much)

    I can't believe nobody has said a compressor yet.. air tools are great. If you build a Dax you'll need to rivet the body to the chassis before the adhesive dries, and your chances of doing that with a hand powered riveter are nil - compressor driven riveter is pretty much mandatory there. AK attaches the body differently IIRC, and GD bolts it to the chassis with rubber bobbins like a Land Rover, so maybe you can do without a compressor for those ones (and given your location, perhaps AK is the preferred supplier as they are on your doorstep)

    I've probably spent a grand or more on tools alone.

    As for the kit build, work out what you think it will cost and then double it You're probably looking at a £30-50k build cost these days considering the price has gone up on everything (Windscreen - £900, gearbox - £2k etc), unless you do a lot of second hand finding and/or go for a Q plate.
    ...but you didn't have to !

    and a compressor......I couldnt justify the cost....rather buy a Festool track saw with the money.
    Crendon Chassis No.49
    Huddart FE428 + toploader

    Not listed in the Shelby Register.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Norton Cross
    Posts
    469
    Decent socket set from Halfords will get you started. Keep an eye out and buy when they have 50% off.
    I then bought the tools as I needed. Decent brake flare tool, dremmel and power file are very handy.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Spalding
    Posts
    48
    Quote Originally Posted by aaronjb View Post
    (and given your location, perhaps AK is the preferred supplier as they are on your doorstep)

    I've probably spent a grand or more on tools alone.

    As for the kit build, work out what you think it will cost and then double it You're probably looking at a £30-50k build cost these days considering the price has gone up on everything (Windscreen - £900, gearbox - £2k etc), unless you do a lot of second hand finding and/or go for a Q plate.
    I have lots of metric and imperial taps and dies which I inherited from my dad. Not going for a compressor.

    AK will probably be the one for me as yes they are very local and seem like genuinely nice and helpful people. The body and configuration also will provide the 'look' I'm after.

    As for budget; I am going to set myself £45k all in and no more (oh plus 6k cos SWMBO has decided if I am having an expensive 'toy', she wants an MX5 for the summer!)

    For that money I want a Gen 111 superlite chassis 'modern' looking car with (probably) LS3 and 6 speed Tremec, painted properly (probably SMS as they have a good rep and are just up the road), all whistle and bells, registered as new and with lots of shiny bits. I think if I buy/ borrow/ beg and steal carefully, this should be easily achievable (at 2019 prices).

    If new, I haven't factored 'on the road' prices in and need to research the additional tax implications of a new emissions relevant engine.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    East Sussex, UK
    Posts
    4,502
    Glad someone mentioned Dremel - wish I'd bought one at the start of my build.

    I'm also a big fan of heatshrink (you can use adhesive lined but it's cheaper using a bit of hot glue from a gun before shrinking the tube)

    Head torch for poking around upside down in footwells
    Reverend Robin
    GD427 Euro

    He who dies with the most tools wins

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Wrexham
    Age
    47
    Posts
    512
    Endless supply of teabags, plasters and tub of calm tablets.....
    AK Ls1/t56
    Body on April 2014
    Passed IVA March 2017
    Registered April 2017.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Essex
    Posts
    232
    If your stripping down your own donar parts, a decent length breaker bar wouldnt go a miss for those 30year rusted on nuts.. dont ask me how I know 😁

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    WELLINGBOROUGH
    Posts
    97
    Elastoplast (1 box - various sizes)
    Swear box

    sceptic

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Christchurch, NZ
    Age
    58
    Posts
    2,281
    Lathe, not essential but always handy.
    Cheers

    Myles D-W

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    East Sussex, UK
    Posts
    4,502
    My local auction often has complete tool collections going for very little money. Always useful having a selection of crappy old spanners you can grind/bend to shape for the really awkward bolts.
    Reverend Robin
    GD427 Euro

    He who dies with the most tools wins

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