Page 13 of 18 FirstFirst ... 31112131415 ... LastLast
Results 121 to 130 of 177
  1. #121
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Lanarks
    Age
    63
    Posts
    223
    Quote Originally Posted by aaronjb View Post
    Hm, interested in why you say that? The build manual is suitably vague on this point (of course) but says:
    Two 6mm thick adjustment shims from the kit manufacturer comes to 12mm yet Jaguar provide only a few thin shims for minor adjustments.
    I am confident the ball joint will only need to be moved forward (a little) to set Castor...

    You go on to mention the supplied joints needed replaced and agree with me the phasing of the intermediate shaft is important.....others might not know of this detail.

    I would NEVER have commented at all on your build thread but for the fact that you mentioned me. (smiley face et all)
    ALL if I done is point out a few issues that others may find interesting.
    eg......If someone else wants to fit the door locks in their kit.




  2. #122
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Chelmsford Essex
    Posts
    989
    Aaron,

    I am surprised that the chassis flex is so noticeable on the De-Dion chassis on the doors. I know it is on the ladder frame pre-back bone bracing. I have considered to add more centre tunnel bracing as one of our Dutch friends had done. Its an addition lattice structure going from front scuttle to back rear frame.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by jon1d; 27-12-19 at 11:46 AM.

  3. #123
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Hilperton,Wiltshire
    Posts
    2,578
    My De Dion chassis doesn't flex much even when jacked up in one corner. Door gaps stay consistent.


    Andy

  4. #124
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Northampton
    Age
    41
    Posts
    4,044
    drammyboy - your door lock rivnut tip definitely falls under the "Balls, why didn't I think of that?" heading! Genius and a great tip (especially if you're capable of getting them in the right place first time out, unlike me )

    Re chassis flex - it's not that much, but the drivers door became noticably harder to close on the latch when the car was on its wheels vs when it was on the lift.. I took a washer out which was spacing the latch out from the B pillar and it closes more easily again, which tells me there must be some flex in there somewhere.. I'd be very tempted by additional bracing, but maybe that's a job for after the car is on the road (albeit it'll be much harder at that point!)

    So .. today we dropped a 'buck' engine in so that we can start on exhausts etc along with the final gearbox. Now, let me preface this by saying that since Dax didn't have jigs for an FE+T56 combination, the mounts were placed using my buck engine plus a GM T56 (out of an Aston Martin) and its now an FE+T56 Magnum which has a slightly different mounting flange arrangement at the back - I think it might be a sniff wider, which has become a slight problem!

    We're alright up the front end with the engine:


    There's even acres of room for the exhaust headers:


    But it's pretty tight down the tail end of the gearbox:


    In fact, the tail end bracket is pretty much touching chassis:



    Two things became apparent during this - a) my old gearbox had a GM style rubber mount on it (like this one) which is narrower than the mount that MDL supply, b) the new mount is too wide for the steel plate welded to the chassis because the bolts are farther apart than the GM style.

    Oh, and c) The gearbox needs to share the same space as my fuel line and my main battery cable .. in fact we all but severed the main battery cable with the gearbox, so that now needs replacing (BUGGER!) as does the fuel line (less annoying to replace). Good job the battery was disconnected!

    I also need to source a new GM style transmission mount, and then figure out how much packing it'll need to ensure the gearbox output flange and diff input flange are parallel-but-offset (possibly none, we'll see!)

    Still.. that battery cable. BUGGER. BALLS. ETC. I said worse in my head, but not out loud, because my Dad was giving me a hand to do all this...
    My DeDion build diary..
    Hon Sec of the Digidash branch of the Unpopular Kit Car Design club

  5. #125
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Lanarks
    Age
    63
    Posts
    223
    Funny you should say that....

    It does look a bit busy around propshaft area with electrics and fuel lines.
    Have you considered using the area under the door, behind the side trim panel to route cables?

    Battery.
    I use the wee Rover and have room to mount it above the steering rack just in front of my crankshaft pulley
    Is this possible on your kit?
    Less cable run but might spoil the engine bay look that you are after.

    Lastly, did you notice any chassis flex before the body was riveted and bonded?
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #126
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Northampton
    Age
    41
    Posts
    4,044
    Quote Originally Posted by drammyboy View Post
    Have you considered using the area under the door, behind the side trim panel to route cables?
    Before I fitted the loom I had seriously considered that route .. then went with the 'build manual' way (down the tunnel). Ho hum! I may well re-route the fuel line to the passenger side in that area, and battery cable to the drivers side

    Battery.
    I use the wee Rover and have room to mount it above the steering rack just in front of my crankshaft pulley
    Is this possible on your kit?
    Probably not unfortunately - all the DeDion gubbins up front take up a large amount of the room between engine & radiator, and the rad fan takes up the rest..

    Lastly, did you notice any chassis flex before the body was riveted and bonded?
    Nope - but then, if it's ~0.5mm or so, it's hard to detect when static - may well show up when on the road, though. We'll see ... you know, if I ever get that far


    Did some research into the gearbox mounts - looks like my old gearbox likely had the GM style mount on it which is significantly narrower; unfortunately, the only place I can find those is either the US or Roadcraft, and Roadcraft are on holibobs until the 6th of January (I should be so lucky!).. no gearbox fettling until the new year for me.
    My DeDion build diary..
    Hon Sec of the Digidash branch of the Unpopular Kit Car Design club

  7. #127
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Northampton
    Age
    41
    Posts
    4,044
    So while pondering gearboxes and stuff like that, I thought I'd chip away at odds and sods, getting ready for the real engine - that kind of thing..

    Refitted the wing mirrors tonight at a more reasonable height with the aid of some slightly longer BA screws (but not too long!)


    Fitted the alternator to the buck engine - this isn't the final alternator (or engine!); this one sounds like gravel in a cement mixer so clearly needs a rebuild!


    Not much space back there, but these are the original FE brackets so must be right!


    Also 3D printed some bits in preparation for exhaust work.. progress, little by little. And my gearbox mounts are now on the way..
    My DeDion build diary..
    Hon Sec of the Digidash branch of the Unpopular Kit Car Design club

  8. #128
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    West Sussex
    Posts
    8,672

    Alternator mounting

    Looks about the same as mine - its a tight fit!
    Crendon Chassis No.49
    Huddart FE428 + toploader

    Not listed in the Shelby Register.

  9. #129
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Perth
    Age
    53
    Posts
    1,681
    Yep as Kev says.....do the connecting before before install...makes life a bit easier

    cheers
    Kiel and Duncan (dad and the lad errr young man now)

    AHP Crendon Chassis No 1
    Ford FE 434, dual quad, Toploader total old school all the way
    https://www.crendonreplicas.com/
    http://www.absolutehorsepower.co.uk/

  10. #130
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Northampton
    Age
    41
    Posts
    4,044
    Oh yes - there's no way my fat fingers are getting down there! Figured I'd put it on the buck engine though so that I can at least figure out where the wires need to reach to, terminate everything etc and be ready for the real engine.. and a working alternator (when I get one - need to look up Kev's recommendation again, which I have stored somewhere..)

    Also fun - the long lower pivot bolt won't go in once the alternator is in because the DeDion suspension is in the way, so you have to put the alternator and bracket in together with the bolt already through. Be easy if I was an octopus, so requires a little juggling to get everything in while it's all flopping about
    My DeDion build diary..
    Hon Sec of the Digidash branch of the Unpopular Kit Car Design club

Page 13 of 18 FirstFirst ... 31112131415 ... LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •