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  1. #151
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Northampton
    Age
    41
    Posts
    4,044
    Right, the toys are back in the pram now.. and my Dad popped down today to give me a hand with the header tank.

    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisP459 View Post
    If it’s any help you are welcome to come to mine with a camera and a tape measure! I am running an FE in a Dax complete with header tank. I use standard FE engine mounts on to home made chassis fixings. I’m not that far from you, probably 75 mins. (Near Chipping Norton) You could also look at gearbox alignment (from underneath at least as I am lucky enough to have a full height ramp). I have plenty of time, I gave up working for a living last year!!
    Regardless of these issues, I'd love to take you up on that offer one weekend (sadly I still have to work for a living for 25 years or so more yet!) I'll PM you my number and we can have a chat.

    So as a reminder, this is where we started off:


    The bonnet won't close by a good 2". So we took my 'good' header tank (which isn't coated in 40 years of paint) and took it to pieces:


    There is what looks like verdigris here and possibly a split in the seam where it is folded over - I did read on clubcobra that this is quite a common failure mode. Still, this header tank was made in 1962 so it's had a good life! There is a classic car radiator repair place near where my Fiancee works, so I'll take it over there when we're done and see if they can fix it. If not, the worst case scenario is that I buy one of Bob @ Vintage's new brass header tanks and just use my modified, shortened, bracket. Anyway.. verdigris:


    We chopped about two inches out of the inlet pipe - basically as much as is possible to lose - and then put it back together dry without solder, added some 1/4" ply on top of the radiator cap and the tank itself and then closed the bonnet and success! We have about 1/4" of air gap above the ply spacers, so about 1/2" of gap before the bonnet.. that should do nicely. We could even have got away with shortening it a little less, but why not - it is still nicely the highest point in the system above the inlet manifold, so we should be good there.


    We had to chop the original bracket into pieces and then bend & weld it back together - it is only tacked together at this point, and needs welding fully and then reassembling in the correct order (bracket and inlet at the same time):


    But, this is basically what we are left with - look at the difference between left and right here:


    Oh - and of course we turned the header tank around 180 degrees to match the radiator!
    My DeDion build diary..
    Hon Sec of the Digidash branch of the Unpopular Kit Car Design club

  2. #152
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    South Warwickshire
    Age
    57
    Posts
    21
    Well done, that is looking better! Yes, no problem, PM me your number and we can take it from there. I am very happy to share what I have done with mine. It all fits - just!!!

  3. #153
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Chelmsford Essex
    Posts
    989
    I have seen this done on a Cleveland engine as the engine sits height and also the Cleveland exit from the block is horizontal face so the pipe needs to be vertical then 90 degree and another 90 like and S pipe. The brass expansion tanks are very flimsy and notorious for leaks. There is an expensive stainless steel one on the market in USA.

  4. #154
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    West Sussex
    Posts
    8,672
    Well done Aaron - similar to what I did.
    Crendon Chassis No.49
    Huddart FE428 + toploader

    Not listed in the Shelby Register.

  5. #155
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    STOKE ON TRENT, U.K.
    Age
    54
    Posts
    10,163
    Now, if there was just someone out there who made a Cobra that you didn't have to modify Cobra parts in order for them to fit?????
    Pro Cobra Builder
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  6. #156
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    West Sussex
    Posts
    8,672
    Quote Originally Posted by dave View Post
    Now, if there was just someone out there who made an ali Cobra at grp prices that you didn't have to modify Cobra parts in order for them to fit?????
    ....Yup
    Crendon Chassis No.49
    Huddart FE428 + toploader

    Not listed in the Shelby Register.

  7. #157
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Chelmsford Essex
    Posts
    989
    Dave,

    You trying to take away the fun of building. We all like to engineer our solutions. All the cars would be all the same
    Blue with white strips. Lol

  8. #158
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Northampton
    Age
    41
    Posts
    4,044
    Quote Originally Posted by dave View Post
    Now, if there was just someone out there who made a Cobra that you didn't have to modify Cobra parts in order for them to fit?????
    If you'd like to knock 50% off.. I'll take one I thought the header tank still needed turning 180º - unless you bought an actual Cobra header tank (which I can only see available in 'kit form') - as the Galaxie etc have the outlet on the drivers side..
    My DeDion build diary..
    Hon Sec of the Digidash branch of the Unpopular Kit Car Design club

  9. #159
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Northampton
    Age
    41
    Posts
    4,044
    No massive progress - my propshaft arrived today and it looks the right length.. I just can't maneuver it in around everything else without taking the hand brake cable out of the way, and I can't get the hand brake cable out of the way right now as the scissor lift is in the way after shuffling the garage around to put the engine in - d'oh! I'll have to move it around again tomorrow in the daylight and give it another go.
    My DeDion build diary..
    Hon Sec of the Digidash branch of the Unpopular Kit Car Design club

  10. #160
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Northampton
    Age
    41
    Posts
    4,044
    Dropped the header tank off at NAR Group (they make/remake cooling systems for classic cars, military vehicles etc) to be pressure tested/repaired/resoldered/cleaned etc. Actually dropped both off, in case the first one turns out to be leaky.. £165 if they have to make one good tank out of both, less if they just need to clean & test the one I shortened.

    Other than that, I had a half arsed attempt to get the prop shaft in again, but it's not going in without the gearbox moving - it might go in if the gearbox tail drops as far as it can, otherwise it will only go in as the engine & gearbox are being put into position.. I am struggling to find the motivation to struggle to put something in that will only need to come out again in order to go back in again if/when the rebuilt engine shows up! (Seven months, so far..) If I don't, it'll turn out to need major work. If I do, it'll fit just fine, I think that's what sods law says?
    My DeDion build diary..
    Hon Sec of the Digidash branch of the Unpopular Kit Car Design club

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