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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
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    Perth
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    Quote Originally Posted by aaronjb View Post
    The sump isn't actually the lowest part with the sump that I have .. which, er.. is either Canton or someone else I haven't seen it in a few months now! The bell housing is an inch or so lower than the sump, so I might need to slice the bottom lip off to gain a little bit of clearance back at the expense of something to bolt the back plate to
    Yes fairly common mod recommended for a certain other Cobra manufacturer limited of course by the tip diameter of the starter ring gear.

    Other recommended option is a sump guard that extends back passed the sump and (modified) bell.

    cheers
    Kiel and Duncan (dad and the lad errr young man now)

    AHP Crendon Chassis No 1
    Ford FE 434, dual quad, Toploader total old school all the way
    https://www.crendonreplicas.com/
    http://www.absolutehorsepower.co.uk/

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Northampton
    Age
    41
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    3,875
    Quote Originally Posted by KugaWestie View Post
    I think I need to see these
    I tried, I really tried - I know I have pictures of them sitting in the car and everything, but I can't find them now.. they were Lotus Probax seats from the Exige/VXR220, hands-down the most comfortable 'race' seat I've ever sat in, even on long journeys. They were black & yellow and looked exactly like this:


    I think, though, they're too 'wide' for the narrow floorpan of the Dax - would probably work better in a car with flat floors (Crendon/original/etc) though.

    Quote Originally Posted by kitcarsareus View Post
    Yes fairly common mod recommended for a certain other Cobra manufacturer limited of course by the tip diameter of the starter ring gear.

    Other recommended option is a sump guard that extends back passed the sump and (modified) bell.
    Yeah - who was it here who made sump guards.. CharlieAK maybe? I nearly bought one, but I couldn't confirm if they would fit my sump until it was all in the car.. might have to get one made up myself, later, though - nobody wants to lose a sump to a speed hump!
    My DeDion build diary..
    Hon Sec of the Digidash branch of the Unpopular Kit Car Design club

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Northampton
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    41
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    Before the rear brakes can go get buttoned up though, the rear toe needs to be set - it is set using shims between the hub and the De Dion beam; the hub mounts to the beam using the bolt holes that would originally have been used for the brake caliper hanger though, so once the brakes are on, changing the shims means un-mounting the calipers. Worse still, the calipers mount using threaded rod and nuts on both ends due to access issues.. so getting it all apart again in future is going to be a pain in the backside. Still, front & rear toe was set using lasers and long lengths of aluminium angle and a lot of trigonometry!


    Rear toe setup:



    Front toe setup:




    All that just to get toe 'close enough'..




    Front brakes went on easily enough - these discs are second hand but in good condition besides the surface rust and they can always be swapped out prior to IVA:



    The rears gave me some trouble as I had the wrong set of brake hoses for these calipers. There are two kinds of Jaguar caliper and the brake fitting comes off at a different angle - just like the diff, I had the wrong combination of parts:



    While the body was still off I took the opportunity to run the main battery cable. It passes through the factory made holes in the prop-catcher using two 35mm Lucas grommets split down the middle and super-glued in place:



    Since my plans for the brakes involved separate master cylinders for front & rear, I couldn't use the standard Dax plan of two separate brake lines for the front and one line to the rears, splitting in the middle. Instead, I had the same setup for front & rear - a single line leaving the master cylinder, splitting in the middle of the chassis and going to each side. That meant that I could fit the brake light switch (pressure style) well away from sources of heat - time will tell if this stays or if I switch to a mechanical switch on the pedal box:



    And that takes us up to March 2017..
    My DeDion build diary..
    Hon Sec of the Digidash branch of the Unpopular Kit Car Design club

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Northampton
    Age
    41
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    Once I’d got hold of the correct Goodridge brake lines for the rear, the front & rear calipers could be attached - of course, looking back on these photos now I see that I did everything on the rear as though they’d never need to come off again, yet they will - you can’t bleed the brakes with the calipers attached as the bleed nipple is no longer at the “top” with the hubs mounted on their side like this.. Ah well, that’s a problem for a later day.


    Fronts:



    Rears:



    The body was up and down more times than a <insert euphemism here> at this point, trimming, testing, trimming, checking, trimming and so on, using plum lines from the arches to make sure everything was ‘even’ side to side and aligned with the center of the hubs as best as is possible.


    One interesting point to note - the build manual has you push the footwells up against the little vertical plates at the end of the chassis part of the footwell - the idea being that the pedal box will ultimately bolt through both the fibreglass footwell and the metal, but two things became apparent:


    • If we did that, the body was off-square by about a quarter inch at the front end, so the wheels would never be even
    • When the pedal box was offered up and placed, per the build manual, “as high up as possible”, the lower mounting holes would miss the metal plates in the chassis anyway!



    Because of that we decided to make the body square on the chassis (or “more square”, perhaps I should say!) and then pack the footwell out with an additional strip of 3mm steel between the fibreglass and the steel chassis, allowing us to both fill the gap and raise the plate enough that the pedal box will bolt to steel at the bottom.


    Eventually the body was attached using Würth adhesive and pop rivets per the build manual - thank heaven we had four people and two compressor driven pop-riveters at this point! There are no pictures because we were all too busy trying to finish riveting before the adhesive set..


    You can just see what I described about the footwells in this image, before the packing plates were added:



    The main tub with so many rivets. So. Many. Rivets:



    And the boot, which needs in-fill plates to be added over the chassis rails left & right, and the cut-out section to be filled with the piece laying in the boot; that provides clearance for the De Dion beam and also contains a steel reinforcing strip as it is the front mounting point for the fuel tank straps:



    Here’s the pedal box being offered up:



    Shown here at its lowest possible point rather than where it will end up (as high as possible). I really, really wanted a bottom hung pedal box rather than the Dax one, but in the end I just couldn’t make one fit without sawing off a few inches of leg. Due to the design of the footwell the master cylinders can’t exit the footwell forward (because of the chassis box section), and having ‘rear facing’ cylinders means moving your feet upward into the steering column.. So, Dax pedal box it was. For now, I can always change it later, right?


    I must have added the steering column somewhere around here, although I don’t have any pictures of the inside (the Corsa B ePas column), but here’s the intermediate shaft plus the bearing I installed (rather than the Dax bushing):



    And one last picture for this update - we went to a show (I forget which one!) and bought a load of exterior lighting stuff as well as some lathe tooling and bits & bobs:
    My DeDion build diary..
    Hon Sec of the Digidash branch of the Unpopular Kit Car Design club

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Northampton
    Age
    41
    Posts
    3,875
    At the show I mentioned earlier, I also ordered something rather extravagant. It turned up in a very large box:



    I had to call in reinforcements (my Dad!) because I couldn’t move it on my own.. Despite it being the “mobile” version:



    As you can see, I’ve also fitted the front lights. These were LED versions which were rather expensive, and they “stuck out” past the chrome ring making the whole thing look like a Pug with a too-small head and eyes about to pop out.. A shame, really, as I rather like the idea of being able to see well at night. We’ll revisit those, later.


    (April 23rd, 2017)
    My DeDion build diary..
    Hon Sec of the Digidash branch of the Unpopular Kit Car Design club

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Northampton
    Age
    41
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    For jon1d: I got your PM, but your mailbox is full so I couldn't reply But thanks for the encouragement!
    My DeDion build diary..
    Hon Sec of the Digidash branch of the Unpopular Kit Car Design club

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    West Sussex
    Posts
    8,532
    Quote Originally Posted by String View Post
    Thanks Aaron, I suspected you may have the original style bonnet lurking somewhere with all the other parts. I much prefer the understated look (as much as it can be on cobra!) and have the same Dax add-on for mine. I hope the build thread helps inspire you through to completion - keep it going....
    what String says.
    Enjoying reading this.
    Crendon Chassis No.49
    Huddart FE428 + toploader

    Not listed in the Shelby Register.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
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    Northampton
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    41
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    Condensing it all down does achieve one thing quite nicely..

    It makes building a car seem REALLY EASY
    My DeDion build diary..
    Hon Sec of the Digidash branch of the Unpopular Kit Car Design club

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Chelmsford Essex
    Posts
    818
    Quote Originally Posted by aaronjb View Post
    For jon1d: I got your PM, but your mailbox is full so I couldn't reply But thanks for the encouragement!
    Thanks. Had a clear out .

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    West Sussex
    Posts
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    Quote Originally Posted by aaronjb View Post


    As you can see, I’ve also fitted the front lights. These were LED versions which were rather expensive, and they “stuck out” past the chrome ring making the whole thing look like a Pug with a too-small head and eyes about to pop out.. A shame, really, as I rather like the idea of being able to see well at night. We’ll revisit those, later.


    (April 23rd, 2017)
    Jealous of that lift!
    Crendon Chassis No.49
    Huddart FE428 + toploader

    Not listed in the Shelby Register.

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