That's Kirkham billeted aluminium rear end. Don't think you will be walking away with much change from 10k just for the suspension parts!kirkham20.jpg
That's Kirkham billeted aluminium rear end. Don't think you will be walking away with much change from 10k just for the suspension parts!kirkham20.jpg
Last edited by jon1d; 06-12-19 at 05:41 PM.
The suspension is a work of art with all the billet aluminium work. They use to offer an authentic suspension kit as an upgrade. Kirkhams are selling £120k plus.
I would not even like to guess lol What is the diff as the cover looks very different.
Designed it and built it myself.........I have this one left
You can see where the costs mount up if you just credit card a fully built car.
I copied George's idea on those bottom billet arms and had a pair machined up to my spec.
My Jag IRS Quick-change was just to make it look a little bit different.
Took me a month to make it. Cost me less than £10 in materials
Imagine paying £40- £120k and another one turns up EXACTLY the same.......
That's why I like this site. So many talented people. You have a great eye for detail. Since you have done all the hard work on the design I am sure people would be interested.
Let you into a secret……so ssssssschhhh don’t tell anyone
Optional extras:
Wiring loom:
£500 loom v a £10 modified loom
Never had a problem with any of my previous builds
using a simple BL mini wiring loom….
Those wee electrons still find their way along.
Did you know a donor car Jaguar XJS battery cable
is long enough to be used !
Petrol tank:
£400+ tank v a £100 Homemade unit.
Much safer having it behind the rear bulkhead area than
hanging out the rear only inches from fast approaching cars!
I can't weld aluminium so had a chap build me an aluminium fuel tank from
my AutoCad drawings.
I first made up a Blue Peter cardboard box to make sure it was a snug fit
in the boot space
My floorpan might house a spare wheel…….
Brilliant, i to made a copy loom with New wiring, connectors, relays and fuse box for about 110.00, takes a while but all works. Copied the original.
with that fuel tank whats the small top outlet for, vent? As my standard dax tank, hose and aero cap does not have anything for a vent pipe and neither does tha dax or dax iva manual mention it.
I'm using a flush fit petrol cap - Push to open then twist to remove.
I'll need some vented hose going up and around then down to the bottom cannister.
They'll be very little fumes.....as this cannae Scot only puts in 1 gal at the pumps and it lasts me for months.
I like to use as much as possible from the donor Jag
What is wrong with using calipers that passed an MOT under a heavyweight Jag?
Are those U/Js servicable?
Do the pads or discs need changing?
Does it need caliper seals?
Is there any wear or play in those bottom arms bushes etc
Can that chromed XJS handbrake be used with its cables just shortened to suit.
Renew and replace where needed
Sticking front brakes anyone?
Leaving your old Jag 4pot calipers for months can cause binding or stuck brakes.
Pull out the pistons and have 8 machined up in stainless......pop down to the local polishers and have them mirror polished to perfection. Install with new seals
All for about £100 the pair.
Oh......my bias brake setup cost very little to make.
I'll wager some paid more on VAT
Great ideas. I get so much more satisfaction by coming up with new solutions and off the shelf. I know if I make its a one off.
I never had issues with brakes binding ( famous last words) . It could be because I am using DOT5.0 brake fluid which is none hygroscopic. Stainless is a nice solution to stop rusting.
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