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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
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    Lanarks
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    63
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    223

    Riveting and bonding the bodyshell - Why?

    Has anyone wanted to remove the bodyshell and find you'll need to cut the it off the chassis?

    What is the point of drilling all those beautifully positioned holes and securing the body to the chassis with a bonding agent.

    Let me know a good reason why you should never remove the bodyshell.

    I'm sure some long time owners might want to freshen up the chassis with paint or powder coat it.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Bournemouth
    Posts
    222
    If the body was just riveted then the rivers would eventually work loose around the fibreglass and cause all sorts of problems. The sealant is added as an adhesive to prevent the above from happening.
    You could merely bond the body in place and do without rivets but the rivets help in locating the body.
    The body on most cars is not designed to be separated from the chassis. If you wanted that option then GD would have been a good choice or spend lots and lots of time making your kit during the build in to a car where the body can be easily removed.
    You can separate the body but it takes time and care and any damage to the surface protection of the chassis would need to be sorted before the body went back on.

    David.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Chelmsford Essex
    Posts
    989
    Another possible option is a flip front if the reason for having the body off to easily work on the engine and front suspension. This has been done on a Factory Five in USA.

    https://www.rcnmag.com/garage/totally-flipped-out

    I would be a bit worried in taking off an old body shell due to fibre glass flexing and stress fractures. I have seen it done a few times on T.V. shows with fibre glass bodies and and the engine bay would be a restrictions with a V8.

    Wheel dealer series did a body take off a Morgan due to chassis rust so was replaced. The body off part was a bit of a worry.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    East Leake, Nottinghamshire, England.
    Age
    55
    Posts
    9,516
    AK bolt theirs down and never used to at least use any glue. I've had my body off once so really glad I didn't use glue. When I helped my mate build his Dax he also bolted his body down and never had any problems at all.
    Martin

    351W 416.7 HP and 466.8 ft-lbs

    Running Mega Squirt and Edis 8


  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Lanarks
    Age
    63
    Posts
    223
    Quote Originally Posted by jon1d View Post

    I would be a bit worried in taking off an old body shell due to fibre glass flexing and stress fractures.
    Just make sure it is secured front, middle and back and you'll have no problem.
    This contraption made life easy




    Just think about it folks before you drill away and pop rivet before the glue sets......

    6 bolts around the scuttle hoop
    6 eye bolts for the seat belts
    2 bolts for the Handbrake
    4 Bolts in the boot area
    2 bolts on front x-member inner wing area
    and 4 others on inner wing flanges up front
    Not counting those flimpsy bumpers

    You tell me where the body is going with that lot holding it down

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    West Sussex
    Posts
    8,672
    My Sumo used M8 bolts - 3 on the front lip, 3 down each side sill, some big self tappers in the boot and a line of pop rivets behind the cockpit.
    Never heard if a Sumo body coming loose, but it is a pretty stiff chassis. I'd just use rivets, and add a few bolts and tap the chassis for good measure - not exactly difficult.
    Crendon Chassis No.49
    Huddart FE428 + toploader

    Not listed in the Shelby Register.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    York
    Posts
    476
    What’s the motivation for removal - unloved project that you have taken on and desire to be ultra thorough, or access for maintenance during the long winter months, or?

    Dax IRS - was told at Dax that the body and chassis “become one” using the adhesive which influences chassis flex, rivets hold it all in place til it has set. I certainly don’t have the experience to back this up, but it could be inherent in the design...

    Hope you get it sorted.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Lanarks
    Age
    63
    Posts
    223
    Quote Originally Posted by String View Post
    What’s the motivation for removal............

    was told at ......

    )
    Motivation
    It helps down the line if you want to lift off the shell for any major work
    ( eg getting to those rear exhaust manifold bolts - I jest )
    or to freshen up the chassis with paint.

    .....
    Someone told me to cross the road without looking - I ignored them

    I'm sorted but feel for those that in a few years time who want to lift the shell off
    for whatever reason and find they are stuck fast

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    West Sussex
    Posts
    8,672
    Quote Originally Posted by String View Post
    What’s the motivation for removal - unloved project that you have taken on and desire to be ultra thorough, or access for maintenance during the long winter months, or?

    Dax IRS - was told at Dax that the body and chassis “become one” using the adhesive which influences chassis flex, rivets hold it all in place til it has set. I certainly don’t have the experience to back this up, but it could be inherent in the design...

    Hope you get it sorted.
    ...sorry, I don't believe that! there are very substantial forces involved in flexing a chassis! I don't beleive a few tubes of Wurth will have any effect whatsoever.
    Crendon Chassis No.49
    Huddart FE428 + toploader

    Not listed in the Shelby Register.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Christchurch, NZ
    Age
    59
    Posts
    2,329
    I agree, and fibreglass is not renowned for being rigid either. I think it is more to do with stopping the body from fretting (moving and creaking) against the chassis.
    Cheers

    Myles D-W

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