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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Bishop Auckland
    Posts
    313

    jaguar rear hub rebuild

    The outer rear wheel bearing runs on a 'spacer' which slots over the outer hub, however my spacer isn't hard up against the hub - as shown in the attached pictures. Question is, should it be and why doesn't it? The only thing I can think is the radius filet of the hub is too great to allow the spacer to seat correctly. Can anyone shed any light on this - or have photos if you're in the middle of a build?

    Cheers
    James

    20200111_144214.jpg20200111_144227.jpg20200111_144300.jpg
    James G
    Purple Dax / Ford 260/4 speed toploader all in need of TLC and cash but the dreams are there. Dream on - car now blue, Ford 302 and Tremec T5, 4 years later....

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Lanarks
    Age
    63
    Posts
    223

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Bishop Auckland
    Posts
    313
    Thanks Drammyboy,
    Not sure what you mean about 'spacer at other side'? In the erareplicas link, it's shown as a 'seal race' and looks hard up against the hub. Got to find out why mine doesn't.....
    I don't think the JagMods guy in the youtube video is very professional!! I think I'll follow the Haynes manual

    Cheers
    James
    James G
    Purple Dax / Ford 260/4 speed toploader all in need of TLC and cash but the dreams are there. Dream on - car now blue, Ford 302 and Tremec T5, 4 years later....

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Lanarks
    Age
    63
    Posts
    223
    Spacer to the stub axle

    I found this Jaguar cars DVD to be helpful

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Bishop Auckland
    Posts
    313
    Done it!! I put the spacer/seal race on the gas hob for a minute and it dropped right up against the cold hub.
    Hub and spacer now in freezer ready to put warm wheel bearing on. I won't be heating the wheel bearing up quite so hot though...
    The joys of cobra building....
    James G
    Purple Dax / Ford 260/4 speed toploader all in need of TLC and cash but the dreams are there. Dream on - car now blue, Ford 302 and Tremec T5, 4 years later....

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Chelmsford Essex
    Posts
    983
    I have seen leaving the hub in the freezer for a week and blow torch bearings to 400c measuring with lazer temp gauge. It almost drops on. I don't like the idea he is using with a single punch as it can easily damage the hub. You need to be square as you drive it down. Good way is open up the old bearings and use that as your punch with some square channel bar as a drift onto your old bearing.
    Dax 351 Cleveland T5 2.88 PL

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Bishop Auckland
    Posts
    313
    I'll let you know how easy or hard it was....

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Chester
    Posts
    622
    You don't need to heat up or cool down to fit these bearings. Get yourself a suitable size disc, I bought mine,, 6mm thick from fleebay. Not sure the diameter about 50mm I think or get a bearing punch set. Place it across the new bearing and just tap it down flush. If you've got a press even better. Just follow the manual.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    West Sussex
    Posts
    8,663
    On a related note, I plan to fit a set of simon rear hubs. Can I just pull off the XJ hubs with a puller in-situ, fit new bearing to the Simon hub, re-fit to XJ drive shaft and torque up nut?
    Wondering if I need to mess about with end-float measurements?
    Crendon Chassis No.49
    Huddart FE428 + toploader

    Not listed in the Shelby Register.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    York
    Posts
    476
    Quote Originally Posted by KevinW View Post
    On a related note, I plan to fit a set of simon rear hubs. Can I just pull off the XJ hubs with a puller in-situ, fit new bearing to the Simon hub, re-fit to XJ drive shaft and torque up nut?
    Wondering if I need to mess about with end-float measurements?
    Kevin, the tolerances on my Simon rear hubs were very close i.e. tight - I had mine rebuilt with a press. Can’t say for sure (as yours may be fractionally different), but even with a scaffold pole on your wrench you may have a struggle to bring everything together.

    Also, and you may well have noticed already - the oil seal race that James was battling with above is machined in to the Simon hub; therefore, avoid refitting the old one to your Simon hub (another member did this, resulting in a further rebuild, and very kindly informed me before I made the same mistake). HTH

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