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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Lanarks
    Age
    63
    Posts
    223
    Try removing the oil light switch and leaving the oil pressure gauge side alone.
    No need to look elsewhere when the pressure gauge tells you all you'll need to know.

    Spark plug removal will let the engine spin a quicker without any load.

    There should be oil still on the shells......unless by magic it has vanished/dribbled away in 3 weeks.

    You bought a screwfix pump? Include a photo as this might be a good idea
    I'd bet it was more expensive than my squeezy bottle.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    West Sussex
    Posts
    8,670
    Quote Originally Posted by cperry View Post
    I think the main reason for removing the spark plugs is to prevent the engine from building up compression, which will stress the moving parts. Could be more dangerous that not doing it with no oil pressure.

    exactly - remove all spark plugs as it will make turning over the engine much easier as there will be no compression in the cylinders to fight against (and unplug HT lead from coil). On my old car, once I had pulled off the bonnet I could lean over the font and rotate the engine by grabbing hold of the fan belt and giving it a yank round.

    As Jon says, you are looking to see a squirt of oil from the rocker assembly with the rocker cover off. Once you see this you, you know the oil has reached the top of the engine, and you should also be seeing some uptick in oil pressure on your gauge.
    Crendon Chassis No.49
    Huddart FE428 + toploader

    Not listed in the Shelby Register.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Ilford essex
    Age
    48
    Posts
    120
    Well it wasn't to be...but i'm not giving up yet! Removed all the plugs, then the leads and managed to break one of them which I could have done without. The £9.99 Screwfix pump (pictured below) was great. Removed the end of the Oil pressure sender and with a rag to seal around the entrance pumped oil into it. Not sure how much needed to go in as it just seemed to keep taking it, barely spilt a drop. A good 3/4 of a litre later I replaced the pressure sensor and turned her over for a few seconds but light remained on and pressure gauge still showed nothing

    OIl Pump1.jpg
    oil pump2.jpg
    Dax MK4, RV8

    Better to try, and fail....than to fail to try.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Lanarks
    Age
    63
    Posts
    223
    I take it you the sump has oil to the dip stick level.

    Try again with some Wynns oil additive.....it is a bit thicker.
    Fingers crossed this time.......it should take no more than about 10-20 secs to show on the gauge.
    Failing that - it is off with the pump cover and pack with vaseline.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Chelmsford Essex
    Posts
    987
    When you did your oil change did you fit a new oil filter and did you fill it up with oil before installing. Just a thought as if you have it dry you could have introduced air. Is the filter the same type as it is know for suppliers to suggest a different filter. Loosen the filter an if no oil comes out check to see if its dry!
    Dax 351 Cleveland T5 2.88 PL

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    West Sussex
    Posts
    8,670
    Good advice from Jon above.
    Crendon Chassis No.49
    Huddart FE428 + toploader

    Not listed in the Shelby Register.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Ilford essex
    Age
    48
    Posts
    120
    Oil is full to dip stick. Unfortunately the oil filter screws in almost sideways so it was difficult to fill entirely as it would pour out when I screwed it on. Going to have have another crack at it this morning.
    Thanks for all your advice
    Dax MK4, RV8

    Better to try, and fail....than to fail to try.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    NW England
    Posts
    438
    Pack the pump with Vaseline and spin it over ideally with plugs out.
    Never found the need to spin the pump via dizzy drive when doing this and never found it pooible to prime my pump by doing this alone no matter how long I did it for.
    I have a remote filter on mind which may make it different to standard
    Probably best to get a couple or more pump gaskets as they're cheap and good to keep in stock.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    West Sussex
    Posts
    8,670
    Quote Originally Posted by GDCobra View Post
    Pack the pump with Vaseline and spin it over ideally with plugs out.
    Never found the need to spin the pump via dizzy drive when doing this and never found it pooible to prime my pump by doing this alone no matter how long I did it for.
    I have a remote filter on mind which may make it different to standard
    Probably best to get a couple or more pump gaskets as they're cheap and good to keep in stock.
    you could do this - but the point about the dizzy method is that it allows pil to move round all the galleries WITHOUT the engine turning. So that when you do turn it with the keey, all th key surfaces are already coated.

    I have a remote oil filter on my FE - -priming the engine via the dizzy worked fine, but nearly knackered the drill.
    Crendon Chassis No.49
    Huddart FE428 + toploader

    Not listed in the Shelby Register.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Paignton
    Age
    53
    Posts
    1,453
    Quote Originally Posted by GDCobra View Post
    Pack the pump with Vaseline and spin it over ideally with plugs out.
    Never found the need to spin the pump via dizzy drive when doing this and never found it pooible to prime my pump by doing this alone no matter how long I did it for.
    I have a remote filter on mind which may make it different to standard
    Probably best to get a couple or more pump gaskets as they're cheap and good to keep in stock.
    Never failed for me, have also used the dizzy method but without the tool it's awkward.

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