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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Ilford essex
    Age
    48
    Posts
    123

    Zero oil pressure and light on

    I drained my oil 3 weeks ago and finally got round to refilling it today. I started the car and noticed that the oil pressure light was on and the Oil pressure gauge is reading zero (doesn't move at all). I ran the car for a minute or 2 hoping that it was just air in the system but still the light and gauge are telling me there's no pressure. It seems like a bit of a coincidence that after doing an oil change the pressure sensor has gone faulty so i'm wondering if perhaps the delay in refilling has done something. Anyone have any ideas what it could be? Is there a way to check if its the sensor is knackered and if oil is actually being pumped around the engine?

    The engine is a 3.9 Rover V8 and has a sensor with a pipe coming out of the side that disappears into the dash and a single cable on the end that also goes to the dash I assume to the gauge and/or light on the dashboard. I have tried to add a picture below.

    oil pressure sensor2.jpg

    Thanks Kev
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by bigkev38; 12-01-20 at 11:52 AM.
    Dax MK4, RV8

    Better to try, and fail....than to fail to try.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    West Sussex
    Posts
    8,673
    You need to re-prime the oil pump with vaseline and a priming tool down the dizzy hole.
    Full details are in the Haynes manual, or see my previous response to this one on a related post a couple of months (or so) ago.

    Do NOT start the engine again until this has been completed, or risk wrecking your engine!
    Crendon Chassis No.49
    Huddart FE428 + toploader

    Not listed in the Shelby Register.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Ilford essex
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    48
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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinW View Post
    You need to re-prime the oil pump with vaseline and a priming tool down the dizzy hole.
    Full details are in the Haynes manual, or see my previous response to this one on a related post a couple of months (or so) ago.

    Do NOT start the engine again until this has been completed, or risk wrecking your engine!
    Thanks Kevin, I just read your post regarding re-priming the oil pump (below), I certainly don't have the technical knowledge or confidence to tackle this on my own. If anyone knows of a mobile mechanic or someone who's done this before around Chigwell in Essex (IG6) i'd appreciate their number/email, obviously i can't drive the car to them.

    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Proceed as follows:

    Part 1:
    Undo the 4 bolts holding the casting of the oil pump onto the side of the engine.
    You will see 2 cogs.
    Pack the entire space with vaseline. Stick your fingers in the pot and shove loads of it in.
    The vaseline is oil soluable and is used to create a partial vacuum that allows oil to be sucked up from the sump on priming and initial runs.
    Once its primed you should be fine there on in.
    Refit the side of the oil pump casing.

    Part 2:
    Remove rocker covers.
    Make a note of the orientation of the dizzy - use masking tape or scribe a line. And take a pic using your phone as a back-up.
    Now disconnect the lead/ unplug, remove clamping bolt from dizzy clamping bracket and slowly remove the dizzy. It will rotate slightly as you extract it. Place it somewhere safe, keeping dirt and other garage crap/grime away from it. i.e. not perched on the edge of your filthy work bench!
    Look into the dizzy hole and note the orientation of the oil pump drive (10-to-6, half past 12 or whatever)


    Take an electric drill and attach one of these:
    https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RX1431E or make your own priming tool:
    http://www.v8register.net/subpages/V8NOTE487.htm

    Insert the tool into the dizzy hole and ensure the tongue/groove locate. You will probably need to wiggle it a little with your fingers. You will feel some resistance to turning once its located.
    Get a helper to turn on ignition (just one click round, not engaging the starter) if you have an electric oil pressure gauge and use them to monitor the oil pressure gauge. Do not spin the engine on the starter.
    Spin the oil pump using the drill.
    You will fairly quickly see oil pressure rising. Keep going till you see oil appearing at the rockers.
    Now remove drill/priming tool and move the oil pump drive by hand using the tool to the same orientation as you found it.
    Re-insert dizzy. You will need to slightly turn the dizzy (clockwise i think, but check in a Haynes manual) by about 15 degrees before insertion to make it locate into the tongue/groove of the oil pump drive gear inside the engine.
    Bolt down the dizzy an reconnect electrical connections.

    Replace rocker covers.

    Your engine is now primed and the reciprocating surfaces coated and ready for fire up.

    All of this is covered in the Haynes manual:
    https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RP100...iABEgImW_D_BwE

    Don't spin the engine on the starter at any point during the above procedure. If you do, you will have to re-establish TDC and re-set the ignition timing.
    Dax MK4, RV8

    Better to try, and fail....than to fail to try.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Lanarks
    Age
    63
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    225
    ALL my 6 Cobra builds have used the Rover v8

    Your oil pick-up pipe has drained and the pump now needs OIL

    Forget about pulling the dizzy and then having to time it again untill
    You have tried this

    I have found using an oil bottle and filler pipe inserted into the
    Oil pump take –off port that you can squeeze enough oil in to prime it.
    A bit messy so have plenty of rags around the pipe.
    Remove the spark plugs and whizz over the engine to draw up some oil.
    Hope this trick works for you

    Or use old faithful…my old modified dizzy used as a CHEAP primer tool.


  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    West Sussex
    Posts
    8,673
    - my method above doesn't require re-timing, so long as you put everything back as you found it!

    Kev - just get someone on here to pop round and have a look. I'm sure a beer or tea'n'cake will suffice - it won't take more than an hour to sort it out.
    Crendon Chassis No.49
    Huddart FE428 + toploader

    Not listed in the Shelby Register.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Ilford essex
    Age
    48
    Posts
    123
    Thanks for your help, this has definitely told me what the problem is and how to fix it. Happy to pay someone if they have time and the required tool. Can't seem to find any kind of take-off port to fill it but also a little reluctant to turn the engine over as its run dry of oil over the last 3 weeks.
    Dax MK4, RV8

    Better to try, and fail....than to fail to try.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Lanarks
    Age
    63
    Posts
    225
    Look at your own photo and you'll see the ports
    Oil pressure switch and the oil light switch.

    Have a go at the cheap and easy squeezy bottle method to get some oil around the gears and down the pick-up pipe to the sump
    I'd pull off the oil switch and get the oil in there.
    Your pressure gauge will then let you know when the pressure is up after spinning it over for a few seconds - without firing it up !

    Spinning the oil pump drive shaft will lead to you trying to line it up with the Dizzy drive.
    A bit involved if you haven't done it before.......mmmmmm
    Might lead to timing being out !

    You'll not damage the engine if it not fired up to run
    A quick spin over with plugs out should be OK

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Ilford essex
    Age
    48
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    Great, thank you. I will have a go at that this week. Is it absolutely necessary to remove the spark plug? Would removing the HT leads suffice?
    I just bought a little pump from screwfix to pump the oil upwards into the gearbox, I reckon it'll work a treat for this too.
    Dax MK4, RV8

    Better to try, and fail....than to fail to try.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Chelmsford Essex
    Posts
    993
    I would take a rocker cover off and then pump to see your getting oil to the top of the engine. Turning over just remove your coil ht lead so it does not fire. The tail tail sign is pressure on crank should be achived before you fire up the engine.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Worcestershire
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    2,283
    Quote Originally Posted by bigkev38 View Post
    Great, thank you. I will have a go at that this week. Is it absolutely necessary to remove the spark plug? Would removing the HT leads suffice?
    I just bought a little pump from screwfix to pump the oil upwards into the gearbox, I reckon it'll work a treat for this too.
    I think the main reason for removing the spark plugs is to prevent the engine from building up compression, which will stress the moving parts. Could be more dangerous that not doing it with no oil pressure.
    Regards

    Craig Perry

    No, I'm not "repairing" it, I'm fine tuning its performance.

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