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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
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    Chelmsford Essex
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    Front stub axle reinforcing kit.

    Came across this for front stub axle. Stub Axle Reinforcing Kit (axle set) for XJ series.

    https://www.sngbarratt.com/English/#...d-e7a13111fc8a

    My thoughts are nice to have and allowing adjustment for end float but costly.

    Anyone used them ?
    Dax 351 Cleveland T5 2.88 PL

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    NW England
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    483
    Not sure if that solves a problem nobody has. The stub axle is made to support a car with much more weight (and hence inertia) than a Cobra kit (I hope). Endfloat is adjustable by tightening the nut correctly, never had a problem with it myself.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
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    Chelmsford Essex
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    I have found some interesting information. It appears to solve to problems but maybe only on the track. The photos show ones that have been machined. So you would have to fit and turn down until the end float.

    This is the write up from Rob-Beere Racing who sell the spacers. I think these ones will include shims. I have seen ones with a thread adjustment requiring no shims. You dry fit them for an end float.


    http://www.rob-beere-racing.co.uk/suspension.html#stub

    Intended for track use, these spacers overcome the terrifying problem of brake pad "knock-off", where after hard cornering, the brake pedal disappears to the floor! This is caused by the stub axle which holds the wheel in place. Under extreme loads it can flex, which in turn allows the brake disc to push the pads back into the brake caliper. Another axle-related problem with Jaguars is in the adjusting of one's wheel bearings: the final adjusted position depends purely on an approximately adjusted castle nut, held by a split-pin!
    These spacers serve two purposes: firstly they increase the effective diameter of the stub axle by 25%, secondly they positively locate both inner and outer bearings, allowing the adjuster-nut to be fully tightened. This eliminates axle flex and so brake pad knock-off.
    Two types are available, depending on whether you have early or late (Series 2 XJ onwards) stub axles.

    Price: £145.00 (Late type large stub axle), £125.00 (Early type small stub axle)
    Dax 351 Cleveland T5 2.88 PL

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    NW England
    Posts
    483
    I guess if you've run out of other things to spend your money on these won't do any harm. Having the centre nut torqued up TaF would probably make you feel more secure. Wonder what if the end float would/could be reduced, always seems a bit extream with standard setup.
    Got me thinking now how hard would it be to get a set of these turned up.
    Do we know if that price is per pair or each side.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Finchampstead, Berkshire, UK.
    Age
    54
    Posts
    3,693
    I had pad knock off on my first couple of track days, really scary until you understand what is going on and why. I looked at these at the time (2008/2009) but didn’t go down that route. Eventually I worked out that I had XJ6 mk1 hubs/stub axles which have spindly stub axles compared to Mk2/3....so I swapped hubs out in the end - never had pad knock off since.

    Rgds

    Jim
    GD Mk3 Jag based
    Supercharged LS1
    GD J1M

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Chelmsford Essex
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    As Jim suggested a good upgrade is if you have the earlier xj stub axles.which are a lot thinner compared to the later stub axles.which are not costly and added reassurance.
    There seems to be some conflict on the installation if the inner bearing whether to install using loctite. I did see a reason stating that the inner bearing needs to move on the stub a very small amount!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    York
    Posts
    508
    Thanks for the links Jon. What was the reasoning for the slight rotational necessity on the inner bearing? I read that loctiting the inner bearing prevents (very) long term wear on the stub axle, as the inner bearing will rotate on the stub axle. This pdf has some interesting possible upgrades if you are happy to wade through to the bits you need, relating to the donor.

    http://www.jag-lovers.org/xj-s/book/XJS_help.pdf

    The SNG link does cover both sides - full axle.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Hockley ,Essex
    Age
    57
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    137
    The repair method seems to look like a fairly good upgrade,
    But as others have mentioned it seems a bit pointless due to the availability of the correct new stub axles
    that come up at a sensible price .
    The cost of these parts were similar about twenty years ago !
    With regards to the tolerance or sometimes mentioned by some mot inspectors as "a bit of play"
    You do need a small amount otherwise the tapered bearings will overheat ,this has to be mentioned if you are unfamiliar
    with a new mot inspectors.
    Otherwise it will go down as an "advisory"
    Chris.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Chelmsford Essex
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    1,221
    String,
    The reason to not apply loctite is the inner bearing race walks on the stub. Because if you prevent the inner race from rotating all load cycles will be focused on the bottom 1/3 of the bearing track.
    The result is a considerable reduction in the rolling contact fatique life of the bearing.
    Chris,
    I have found the Stub axles at a reasonable price and the quality is very good. Measured tolerances and finish.

    https://www.britishparts.co.uk/class...tub-axle-p5204

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    York
    Posts
    508
    Thanks Jon that is helpful. So, by loctiting the inner bearing you solve one problem but create another!

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