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  1. #1

    Le Mans hard top

    Hi,, new here, I am near to completing build of Pilgrim Sumo 3, just trying to sort out over heating on cooling the small block chevy engine then it's book in for IVA.

    Has anyone fitted the Le Mans style hard top supplied by Dax (J K Sports), I like the way it looks and appears a clever design, and makes car far more practical for the British climate.

    The heated rear window that acts as a tailgate to give access to fuel filler and boot is the clever part, not sure how good the side window design that hinges on screen frame is though?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    United Kingdom
    Age
    51
    Posts
    353
    Also have a look at 427 Hardtops - Not sure if they fit a Pilgrim but Andy is fitting a hard top to my Dax at the moments for the same reason - so I can also use more of the year!

    Any excuse to post a couple of photos!

    20200629_092200.jpg

    20200629_092326.jpg

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    West Sussex
    Posts
    8,995
    imho the 427 Hardtops look very nice, but not cheap!

    I think Dave Brookes had adapted a version of the hardtop for the Sumo before he sold the project on - best speak to him.
    You probably don't want to be paying for hood adaptation - the Dax body shape is very different to the Sumo.
    Crendon Chassis No.49
    Huddart FE428 + toploader

    Not listed in the Shelby Register.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Cherval, France
    Age
    61
    Posts
    1,706
    Two photos, one of the hardtop fitted and the other of my design for sidewindow mounting.

    8FA66EEC-6008-4BB5-B264-1AA5C996E3A4.jpeg5999FF42-0DF7-4F22-9FD8-9DAFB9F35C83.jpeg

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Birmingham
    Posts
    620

    Here my JK supplied Le Mans hard top. They specifically designed two types one to fit the Sumo and another to fit a Dax

    I have an over heating problem with my small block chevy engine also. Let me know if you solve yours over heating problem as I have not been able to.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    • File Type: jpg 1.jpg (1.81 MB, 238 views)
    Last edited by Daryn Smith; 08-07-20 at 05:01 PM.
    It just does....

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Daryn Smith View Post

    I have an over heating problem with my small block chevy engine also. Let me know if you solve yours over heating problem as I have not been able to.
    I will let you know how I get on, the header tank was plumbed into top and bottom rad hoses with T connections, and the header tank (1.5 L) was about level with thermostat.

    I have moved rad up by about 8cm allowing routing rad hoses more direct (less bends) fitted header return hose that was connected to top rad hose directly into rad on opposite side to top hose, the feed from header which was connected to lower rad hose is now connected into engine next to thermostat.

    I am fitting new 4L alloy header higher so it's above thermostat, also fitting bleed screw into thermostat housing.

    It already has new good quality performance alloy radiator and twin electric fans so don't think that's the problem.

    I was not told about any over heating problems when I bought this as an unfinished project 7 months ago, it was meant to be mechanically 100%, but when I checked thermostat.... it had been ripped apart in a botched attempt to resolve cooling problem I have ordered a Land Rover stat with same dimensions but it opens at 71, I think most open high 80s-95?
    Last edited by TurboFreak; 09-07-20 at 01:19 AM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Birmingham
    Posts
    620
    Thanks for the info. I would be grateful if you could keep me updated on your progress.
    It just does....

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Daryn Smith View Post
    Thanks for the info. I would be grateful if you could keep me updated on your progress.
    Update, new Edelbrock water pump about 30% more efficient, still had cooling problem.

    Took out the twin fans and fitted Spal uprated version complete in cowling pulling about 2800 cfm, problem solved, the fans fitted by previous owner were simply not up to the job of pulling the air through the wide core alloy radiator.

    I have set fans to come on at 180f, standing on hot day it cools to 160f and fans turn off, slowly back to 180f and fans kick in... no cooling problems any more, I will probably set the fans to come in at 200f now I know problem is solved.

    I have spent about £600 and a weeks work sorting this problem but a over heating engine is no fun if you want to enjoy the driving experience, hope this helps you get yours sorted.
    Last edited by TurboFreak; 31-07-20 at 04:18 PM.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Chelmsford Essex
    Posts
    1,271
    You would of thought twin fans would be fine. I know when I went to a 16" fan and cowling the cooling was transformed and never have those moments of worry sitting in traffic. I have sat in hours of traffic in mid 30's in France no problems. The water system and rad takes 3 1/2 gallons so lots of water in the tank as they say. lol

    You see these twin fans advertised with no make. They must have poor performance and the blades not set correct. My 16 " fan almost blows the bonnet open and I have not got it set to come on the second speed !I left the wiring there just incase.
    Dax 351 Cleveland T5 2.88 PL

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    West Sussex
    Posts
    8,995
    Although problem solved, this might be useful reading for others.....

    http://how-to-build-a-pilgrim-sumo.w...ngine-plumbing
    - see the bit about 'restrictors'.
    Crendon Chassis No.49
    Huddart FE428 + toploader

    Not listed in the Shelby Register.

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