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  1. #261
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
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    Shipston-On-Stour
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    797
    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisP View Post
    It didn’t! You think that’s too big?
    You've got me thinking now!! Perhaps a bit more playing. Maybe I will make up a smaller one for trials?? It's easy enough, all I have to do is change the mounting blocks for the smaller diameter tube. My suspension 'expert' friend will no doubt have some thoughts. He will know how to calculate it all too, I have seen the equations, that's his bag! I could end up with a road one and a track day one!!

    BTW, it's a hollow tube on there, not a bar (I had a length of tube in stock!!). A full 1 inch bar would definitely be too stiff. The 1 inch tube is less so but still a lot stiffer than a smaller diameter bar.

    Endless fun and fettling with this car............
    Dax with 1964 Dual Quad 427 and Toploader box

  2. #262
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Northampton
    Age
    43
    Posts
    5,000
    For comparison, the front ARB on my Range Rover is 30mm.. there's more to it than just diameter of course - length of the arms is a factor plus material.

    Easier to change yours than mine, though

  3. #263
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Shipston-On-Stour
    Posts
    797
    Need some material to sort the rear roll bar out so turned instead to the removeable steering wheel/column mount. It's a Lifeline product bought from Merlin Motorsport. I have the very same in my Cobra. A removeable wheel has the benefit of giving you more room to get in and out, allows you to have the wheel further back than perhaps you would with a fixed one (more of a racecar position) and of course in the event of emergency it can be easily removed to get you out. I have already fixed the hub to the wheel.

    First I turned a little plug to align both the plug and the tube that slips over the 9/16 shaft



    Then it's a welding job. Has to be a good one! I left a gap to allow me to get a good filling weld in there



    Then after a bit of welding, sanding and a squirt of paint it ended up like this



    I had to clean the splines and collars a bit and the wheel goes on and off nicely. It locks really solidly. I will try it in the car 'dry' next before I weld it to the shaft to make sure the wheel is in exactly the right place. I also want to fix the seat in to be 100%. I've had it all in there before I welded it so hopefully it will be good!!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Dax with 1964 Dual Quad 427 and Toploader box

  4. #264
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Shipston-On-Stour
    Posts
    797
    Hope everyone has had a good Christmas (and not been Covid effected). I've had my son here which has been a bonus on two counts. First, he bought me a fabulous Teng Tools pliers set! Second, I have some muscle to help me do things I can't do on my own! So today he has helped me get the rear clip on so I can check a few things like -
    1, body width - the rear is the firmest body panel, I need to make sure i fix the centre spider (and rear panelling) in alignment
    2, the chassis alterations I need to finish at the rear, particularly the body hinge mounts
    3, before I alter the wishbone mounting I want to check the wheel position in the wheel arch, just in case I need to tweak locations a bit

    The problem I have with this build is that the chassis and body are not a pair, i.e. nothing can be just assembled. So all the above has to be checked and nothing can be finalised without thinking through the downstream consequences! To add a complication, my chassis has a wheelbase 1 1/2 inches longer than the original GT40 car and the Tornado body!!!! I've managed to get this to look right on the front and now need to check the rear - I am hopeful that if I centre up the suspension on the adjustable brackets then 3/4 of an inch at both ends won't show!

    And I think I have got away with it.............


    Ignore the red side panel hanging off (old panel I am using as sacraficial)! The main thing is the wheel looks good in the arch



    And this side too. Oddly, the body overhangs the chassis at least 10mm more this side. It should be 17mm but I have well over that this side, nearer 30mm. The other side is close to where it should be. The body is dead centre on the car wheels though! I am opting to keep everything central then fix the side panels to match. There is plenty of tolerance on the panels and I want the body central on the wheels and in the arches. If I fix the side panels to suit and panel above them (floor) then nothing will be seen as wrong. It's a fiddle but I feel like I am getting my head around it (hopefully!!)
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Dax with 1964 Dual Quad 427 and Toploader box

  5. #265
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Shipston-On-Stour
    Posts
    797
    Decided to put the steering column back in and tidy up under the dash. As you will see, some of the welding on this car is absolutely diabolical and under the dash was particularly poor. Time for a tidy and a bit of adjustment to support the steering column mounting


    What a mess! A tidy up definitely required


    And the other side the same


    New member welded in and a few welds tidied up





    Dash back in, wheel on. Should all be OK I think. I'm pleased with the wheel position, feels just right when seated and in the driving position
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Dax with 1964 Dual Quad 427 and Toploader box

  6. #266
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Shipston-On-Stour
    Posts
    797
    Heat shield to protect the slave cylinder in and £80 of high performance material layered on! I acknowledge it's not pretty but it will hopefully work and anyway, it can hardly be seen once the exhausts are fitted. It's all so bloody tight, the 'dimple' is necessary to allow No2 pipe to sit down low enough.



    Before I can refit the exhausts, I need to cut off the top suspension link in accordance with 'suspension expert' Martin's advice! Down 40mm and out 30mm will improve the roll geometry. That's what the man says, so that's what I will do! It's a fair bit of work but hopefully no too bad


    This is the existing set up.

    A few minutes and a lot of grinding dust later.............


    Not too bad

    Then cleaned up the bracket a bit and clamped it in place 40mm lower and 30mm outwards



    I now need to weld it in and lower the hub carrier 40mm to match




    That's going to be a bit harder. I think I need to make 2 cuts. One to retain the existing mounting and holes and the second 45mm lower. Then I can weld a 5mm plate in to allow the narrower existing mounting to be rewelded on centrally but 40mm lower than original! That's the plan but it won't be today as I have friends coming......
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Dax with 1964 Dual Quad 427 and Toploader box

  7. #267
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Northampton
    Age
    43
    Posts
    5,000
    You know, it's a shame you didn't start the heatshield about six months ago. I had some old Rolls Royce jet turbine heat shields you could have had to cut up and bond on. Sadly by the time you got the GT40 they had (after moving house with me once and having sat around in the garage for a decade or more) finally made their way to landfill...

    Great progress, though!
    My DeDion build diary..
    Hon Sec of the Digidash branch of the Unpopular Kit Car Design club

  8. #268
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Shipston-On-Stour
    Posts
    797
    Bit of progress today. Top link mountings moved down and welded on (just need to do the underneath weld), heatshield fitted and exhausts back on.



    Need to have a go at the hub carriers now. They need to be reduced in height by 40mm too and then it's 6 new link bars, 3 each side, with LH and RH threads for easy adjustment. On it goes...............
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Dax with 1964 Dual Quad 427 and Toploader box

  9. #269
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Shipston-On-Stour
    Posts
    797
    So on to the first hub carrier. I need to drop the fixing hole 40mm. The carrier is tapered so I need to cut out a section and then weld the fixing lugs back on 40mm lower, roughly as below. A pencil line around 45mm lower to allow me room to weld on a 5mm 'cap plate'



    Off with it's head!



    Sliced the excess off the top and this is roughly how it should go back together



    Cap plate first...........



    And on she goes, all centered up and hopefully in the right place!



    Now I have to repeat it all on the right hand side! I also need to take all this off at some point and most probably get it all powder coated. On it goes!!!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Dax with 1964 Dual Quad 427 and Toploader box

  10. #270
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Coventry
    Posts
    2,397
    Cracking work Chris as usual

    Paul
    AK, on the road Oct 2012

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