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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Netherlands
    Age
    50
    Posts
    125

    Rear wheels allignment

    after the rebuild of my GD (Jag based from Mk3 to Mk4) I had my Cobra at a specialist for the wheel allignment.
    The front suspension has been refurbished but no major changes here, setting was more or less okay with only some small adjustments.
    The rear suspension however was changed with shorter driveshafts and lower arms. I only shimmed the driveshafts and based on the camber I have to make a small adjustment. The differential and brakes have been refurbished also but I didn't change anything on the shimming.
    Results of the rear setting is now: left side -0.14 and right side 0.28

    Independent of the rootcause (previous setting was also not okay or the current lower arms as slightly different) I have to adjust the rear.

    On the weblog of Andy (andysgd427blogspot) I read the experience of the shimming of the rear.
    As I understand you have to shim the bracket (which is mounted on the diff) to the differential again, but do you have to adjust the drilled holes in the front and rear GD bracket? Changing the distance / position between the holes in the bracket for the shaft?
    Please see the enclosed picture concerning the distance I mean.


    Many thanks in advance for the advice and input
    Greeting from The Netherlands

    Marcel
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by superseven; 07-10-20 at 01:00 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Cowbridge, United Kingdom
    Age
    62
    Posts
    10,119
    I doubt the position of the threaded shafts will move much but I suspect you may have to clearance or slot the bracket slightly.
    The rear toe on the Jaguar rear is a pain isn't it?
    You may be able to slacken of the bolts to the diff enough. enabling you to side in horseshoe shims as required without removing the pivot brackets completely.
    Kev Davies
    South Wales Area Rep. UKCC Membership Secretary
    DAX Mk4, 383 Chevy Stroker, Tremec. SOLD
    Contemporary CCX 3-4028, 445ci Big Block FORD FE,TKO 600, Old School IVA'd and SOLD
    Dax De Dion LS2 and T56 IVA'd June '17 SOLD
    1965 Ford Mustang 289 Convertible SOLD
    In build- Hawk 289 Sebring Awaiting IVA

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    East Leake, Nottinghamshire, England.
    Age
    56
    Posts
    9,591
    Quote Originally Posted by superseven View Post
    after the rebuild of my GD (Jag based from Mk3 to Mk4) I had my Cobra at a specialist for the wheel allignment.
    The front suspension has been refurbished but no major changes here, setting was more or less okay with only some small adjustments.
    The rear suspension however was changed with shorter driveshafts and lower arms. I only shimmed the driveshafts and based on the camber I have to make a small adjustment. The differential and brakes have been refurbished also but I didn't change anything on the shimming.
    Results of the rear setting is now: left side -0.14 and right side 0.28

    Independent of the rootcause (previous setting was also not okay or the current lower arms as slightly different) I have to adjust the rear.

    On the weblog of Andy (andysgd427blogspot) I read the experience of the shimming of the rear.
    As I understand you have to shim the bracket (which is mounted on the diff) to the differential again, but do you have to adjust the drilled holes in the front and rear GD bracket? Changing the distance / position between the holes in the bracket for the shaft?
    Please see the enclosed picture concerning the distance I mean.


    Many thanks in advance for the advice and input
    Greeting from The Netherlands

    Marcel
    I had a similar issue with my AK and as said you need to slot the holes in the mounting bracket slightly.
    Martin

    351W 416.7 HP and 466.8 ft-lbs

    Running Mega Squirt and Edis 8


  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Chelmsford Essex
    Posts
    1,391
    I thought the bottom shims for the pivot shafts are just to make sure they are parallel to each other and the camber is set with the U/J drive shaft shims. I ordered new shims as the surfaces of the ones I removed were pitted and varied across the surface of 0.005 of a 0.025 " shim. In the Dax build these are set at 9"1/4 parallel.

    I understand that yours is an A.K. but still jag gear. I had just small amounts of paint once refurbished and it can kick out your settings suspension settings. I was amazed and how little a bit of paint can change your settings. I have brake calipers centre off set and cleaned the faces then made them spot on after lots of head scratching as they were the original calipers. I found taking a Stanley blade to the painted edges to bare mounted face surfaces and drag it over. It only needs one high spot area on the face surface.

    The Jag is a pain setting up as you need full weight on the vehicle to check these so everything is bolted down.
    Dax 351 Cleveland T5 2.88 PL

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Netherlands
    Age
    50
    Posts
    125
    He guys
    Thanks a lot for the prompt replies and advice!
    Really helpfull and yes it will be a pain to adjust. Best option is to change, measure, change and again measure. I have the data from the current set op, so more or less I know what to adjust. Still measuring has to be done and indeed with the wheels on the correct height.
    If I can remove only all 4 nuts and the 2 GD brackets without removing the pivot (or ‘shaft’?) I can loosen the bolts and place some horseshoe shims and/or remove the current shims.
    Still no funny job to do, but the weather helps,.,,..
    My weekend is booked
    Again many thanks

    Marcel

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Finchampstead, Berkshire, UK.
    Age
    55
    Posts
    3,754
    Hi Marcel,
    I did mine in situ and yes, it’s a pain in the arse....but doable.

    Unless you are really lucky you will have to remove the shaft (and the tube will fall away) to get a spanner or socket in the lockwired bolts. I tried to loosen the bolts with the shaft in place, but there was no way it was moving without a big spanner on them.

    Good luck for the weekend

    Jim
    GD Mk3 Jag based
    Supercharged LS1
    GD J1M

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Netherlands
    Age
    50
    Posts
    125
    I was already afraid this would be the scenario 😂
    Again thanks!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    NW England
    Posts
    537
    Had my rear toe measured when I built it but that was only measuring the angle between the wheels not how this sits relative to the front wheels.
    it would only need a small amount out mis alignment in the chassis attachment points to have one wheel going toe out and the other toe in, if it needs adjusting I can see it being a proper PITA.

    When I converted my brakes to outboard which have a smaller dia pivot pin requiring bushes to be made I did toy with the idea of getting offset bushes made if I needed to tweak the rear toe, would be a lot easier than messing around with the whole axle.
    The later system obviously adjusts at the outer end as the pivot bolt has eccentric head, often wondered if would be possible to mod the outer end of the lower arm similar to later assembly but I’ve never actually seen how this setup works.

    Adjustment at at the outer end seems a more logical place anyhow as the wheel won’t be swinging fore-aft so much.


    Maybe you could do something like that?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Netherlands
    Age
    50
    Posts
    125
    Spend this morning on getting the pivot out. Selflocking nut at the front of the pivot left doesn’t come of🤬🤬

    Right side is of, but the nut which fastens the bracket to the diff is now impossible to loosen!

    Indeed a F job to do
    It raining at the moment so this helps.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Netherlands
    Age
    50
    Posts
    125
    Both sides pivot is out!
    Next job is getting the bolts loose which mount the bracket to the diff🤬🤬🤬🤬

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