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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    High Wycombe
    Age
    56
    Posts
    729

    Acoustafil and welded exhaust pipes?

    Afternoon all,

    Just managed to bag myself a set of stainless steel exhausts on the Bay of E.

    IMG_20201020_145147755 (600x800).jpg

    IMG_20201020_145206450 (600x800).jpg

    IMG_20201020_145211648 (800x600).jpg

    Apart from needing a serious polishing session they are not too bad for what I paid for them. However thinking in front, I was looking to fit/wrap acoustafil when I get to IVA (not for some time yet) to help with noise levels and I have read it does make the exhaust tone sound better and helps with heat insulation, the problem is though they are welded from front to back ie no joints that come apart. Has anyone come across a similar exhaust set up (or know who might have made them) and if so how did you get access to the innards? I can see the back end of the inner pipe but no obvious way of removing it to clean or repack!

    As always any thoughts welcome.

    Thanks, Graham.

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    AK gen 1 delivered 05/05/17, on the road shortly!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    West Sussex
    Posts
    9,159
    Think you may need to chop the ends off, resleeve and rejoin.
    You should have a perforated tube that runs down the inside centrally. The acoustifil is wrapped around this and slid in. Then fit re-sleeved end cap, held in place with a couple of small bolts.
    Sorry, probably not the answer you wanted.
    Crendon Chassis No.49
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Cowbridge, United Kingdom
    Age
    62
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    10,119
    The original Dax pipes used to be welded like that.
    I had to cut them open and modify them similar to the later ones to make the baffles accessible.
    As well as noise you'll need to think about radius's too.
    Kev Davies
    South Wales Area Rep. UKCC Membership Secretary
    DAX Mk4, 383 Chevy Stroker, Tremec. SOLD
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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    High Wycombe
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    729
    Radius's are ok in as far as the outlets/tips are actually radiused, haven't measured them yet but they "look" ok.

    Perforated tubes are present both sides but I haven't poked around inside yet to see what's holding them in, and haven't looked to see if there is any kind of wrap. Both jobs for tomorrow.

    I had hoped that they would have a removable end but can't complain as they were cheap and they're stainless so plenty of good points. As far as chopping the end/s off I think that's probably the way to go, could anyone recommend an end? I'm thinking the front as I need to think about installing cat's to cover emissions later on (engine is a 1996 Lexus). I would like to fit them in the pipes but have also read on plenty of threads that one bracket (rear) on the exhaust is the way to go, so how does that work if the front of the exhaust is just bolted together?

    As always more questions to work through but for now I'm happy, they're stainless, mine and look (will look) pretty damn good.

    Cheap as in £100.00 for the exhausts, £60.00 pick up and deliver 24hr door to door (TNT ouch) and £20.00 for a polishing kit.

    Graham.
    AK gen 1 delivered 05/05/17, on the road shortly!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    High Wycombe
    Age
    56
    Posts
    729
    So an update,

    Chopping up a perfectly good set of exhausts is a bit of a leap for me so I decided to start with a clean up of the welds to get them nice and flat before polishing and found this mess hidden away below;

    IMG_20201021_144200988 (768x1024).jpg

    Not quite what I had expected and five minutes later they look like this;

    IMG_20201021_145941123 (768x1024).jpg

    IMG_20201021_150151778 (768x1024).jpg

    What I have are 4" pipes with an 80cm x 2 1/2" perforated tube (possibly wrapped) welded from top to bottom inside and out, badly!

    Plan of attack is:

    1. remove all the gubbins from inside, bin it all and clean up the inside edges.
    2. order new stainless steel perf' tube (sticking with the 2 1/2" diameter).
    3. order 4" stainless steel cones.
    4. order or fabricate a stainless steel mounting plate (big washers) for the rear of the perf' tube.
    5. order or fabricate some sort of stainless steel sleeve so I can reattach (and remove) the outlet.
    6. figure out how to bolt the rear of the exhaust and rear perf' tube mounting plates to the rest of the exhaust and not have it look like sh*t.
    7. order acoustafil and rewrap everything.
    8. visit the local welding shop and have it all put back together.

    8 probably before 7?

    Did I miss anything?

    Not quite what I had planned but I still end up with a decent pair of stainless exhausts that didn't cost a lot.

    Graham.
    AK gen 1 delivered 05/05/17, on the road shortly!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Chelmsford Essex
    Posts
    1,385
    The problem that usually occurs is the perforated tube ends up loose and creates rattle problems if it's not secured properly in the tube.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Bournemouth
    Posts
    396
    Quote Originally Posted by jon1d View Post
    The problem that usually occurs is the perforated tube ends up loose and creates rattle problems if it's not secured properly in the tube.
    Thats the problem I have with my Dax pipes. They both need tearing apart and rebuilding. And only 7000 miles on them!!
    Life is driving the Cobra. The rest of the time is just waiting.

    Wessex region caretaker rep.

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