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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Finchampstead, Berkshire, UK.
    Age
    55
    Posts
    3,753

    Rear end rebuild

    So....scope creep really kicked in

    Having taken my wheels off to check the inside for cracks, the next obvious thing to do “while I’m there” is bearings, UJ’s and rear Toe angle.

    Couple of questions though.

    Can some kind soul do the maths for me (target is 0.1 degree overall), I can’t get my head around angles! Distance between bolts is 110mm, near side is 0.43 deg toe in, offside is 0.5 deg toe in (total 0.93 deg toe in), I need shims but would rather not do fit/hope/measure as it’s a pain!



    Next question....is there a cunning way of removing the inner bearing race from the fulcrum pivot on the hub? I can’t get a straight shot at it from the other side.






    Final question, any recommendations on UJ’s (upgrade/chunky = better), I fitted eBay chineseum last time and they’ve worn quicker than I expected.


    Thanks

    Jim
    GD Mk3 Jag based
    Supercharged LS1
    GD J1M

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Cambridge
    Posts
    141
    Hi Jim,

    For the shims, aiming for 0.05 degree toe in on either side:
    Nearside: 110 * sin(.43-.05) = 0.73mm
    Offside: 110 * sin(.5-.05) = 0.86mm

    Have fun

    Cheers, Richard
    --
    Richard
    GD Mk3 LS6

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Chelmsford Essex
    Posts
    1,389
    Hi Chris

    You should be able to drift them out with a steel punch 8 inch from the other side. There should be two slots but I cannot see them on your photo. They are well and truly stuck inside and seen people use a dremel to cut through 3/4 thickness only two side which releaves some pressure. Some heat on the outer case might help then ice on the inner. A pry bar should get on the lip of the bearing.
    Do the same installing new bearing shells. Leave the new shells in the freezer over night and heated the outer case in oven or halogen oven when the misses is out ( She might notice a strange smell though!) Its easy to drift the new shells in.

    Good luck.
    Dax 351 Cleveland T5 2.88 PL

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Finchampstead, Berkshire, UK.
    Age
    55
    Posts
    3,753
    Richard - thanks for the calcs, much appreciated.

    Jon - the tube is narrower than the bearing so I can’t get a straight shot at it. Dremel, hmmmm...That might be a solution!

    Thanks
    Jim
    GD Mk3 Jag based
    Supercharged LS1
    GD J1M

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    cheshire
    Posts
    1,376
    I used one of them orange handled pry bars, put it through and used the last 2" of the pry bar that is kinked at 45 degrees. It angles out to the inside lip of the bearing cup. If that makes sense??
    .............never drive faster than your guardian angel.

    cobraclub.com/gallery/showgallery.php/cat/633 - this is the link to my build photo's you have to put w w w . h t t p : / / in front of it!!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    cheshire
    Posts
    1,376
    I've just checked my book and there should be 2 machined slots to knock the cup out.
    .............never drive faster than your guardian angel.

    cobraclub.com/gallery/showgallery.php/cat/633 - this is the link to my build photo's you have to put w w w . h t t p : / / in front of it!!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Chelmsford Essex
    Posts
    1,389
    I looked at Jim's photo and cannot see the slots which as you say should be there similar to the attached photo. This allows you to easily drift them out. Like for your front wheel bearing shells which I did only a few months ago. I would be tempted to put some slots in for next time but that should be sometime in the future hopefully.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by jon1d; 22-11-20 at 12:00 PM.
    Dax 351 Cleveland T5 2.88 PL

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Marlow
    Age
    69
    Posts
    1,851
    Sorry Jim, hope your wheels aren't cracked.
    Cheers Clive

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Finchampstead, Berkshire, UK.
    Age
    55
    Posts
    3,753
    Clive, wheels are fine! Rest of was on the “to do one day” list

    Got the buggers out in the end, slight tool abuse! Used socket extension bar that has a “push to release” pin sticking out that was just the right length (10 mins of gentle tapping later all done)



    Everything’s now degreased and ready for reassembly......time to go buy some bits ‘n’ bobs.

    Cheers

    Jim
    GD Mk3 Jag based
    Supercharged LS1
    GD J1M

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Finchampstead, Berkshire, UK.
    Age
    55
    Posts
    3,753
    Grubby bits now turned into clean tidy bits...



    Wheel bearings, HD UJ’s, Inner and Outer fulcrum bearings have all turned up so reassembly and end float checking is next on the list.

    Jim
    GD Mk3 Jag based
    Supercharged LS1
    GD J1M

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