Rear end rebuild

[Happy Jim]

So....scope creep really kicked in

Having taken my wheels off to check the inside for cracks, the next obvious thing to do “while I’m there” is bearings, UJ’s and rear Toe angle.

Couple of questions though.

Can some kind soul do the maths for me (target is 0.1 degree overall), I can’t get my head around angles! Distance between bolts is 110mm, near side is 0.43 deg toe in, offside is 0.5 deg toe in (total 0.93 deg toe in), I need shims but would rather not do fit/hope/measure as it’s a pain!



Next question....is there a cunning way of removing the inner bearing race from the fulcrum pivot on the hub? I can’t get a straight shot at it from the other side.






Final question, any recommendations on UJ’s (upgrade/chunky = better), I fitted eBay chineseum last time and they’ve worn quicker than I expected.


Thanks

Jim

[richard8166]

Hi Jim,

For the shims, aiming for 0.05 degree toe in on either side:
Nearside: 110 * sin(.43-.05) = 0.73mm
Offside: 110 * sin(.5-.05) = 0.86mm

Have fun

Cheers, Richard

[jon1d]

Hi Chris

You should be able to drift them out with a steel punch 8 inch from the other side. There should be two slots but I cannot see them on your photo. They are well and truly stuck inside and seen people use a dremel to cut through 3/4 thickness only two side which releaves some pressure. Some heat on the outer case might help then ice on the inner. A pry bar should get on the lip of the bearing.
Do the same installing new bearing shells. Leave the new shells in the freezer over night and heated the outer case in oven or halogen oven when the misses is out ( She might notice a strange smell though!) Its easy to drift the new shells in.

Good luck.

[Happy Jim]

Richard - thanks for the calcs, much appreciated.

Jon - the tube is narrower than the bearing so I can’t get a straight shot at it. Dremel, hmmmm...That might be a solution!

Thanks
Jim

[427jlc]

I used one of them orange handled pry bars, put it through and used the last 2" of the pry bar that is kinked at 45 degrees. It angles out to the inside lip of the bearing cup. If that makes sense??

[427jlc]

I've just checked my book and there should be 2 machined slots to knock the cup out.

[jon1d]

I looked at Jim's photo and cannot see the slots which as you say should be there similar to the attached photo. This allows you to easily drift them out. Like for your front wheel bearing shells which I did only a few months ago. I would be tempted to put some slots in for next time but that should be sometime in the future hopefully.

[clive a brown]

Sorry Jim, hope your wheels aren't cracked.
Cheers Clive

[Happy Jim]

Clive, wheels are fine! Rest of was on the “to do one day” list

Got the buggers out in the end, slight tool abuse! Used socket extension bar that has a “push to release” pin sticking out that was just the right length (10 mins of gentle tapping later all done)



Everything’s now degreased and ready for reassembly......time to go buy some bits ‘n’ bobs.

Cheers

Jim

[Happy Jim]

Grubby bits now turned into clean tidy bits...



Wheel bearings, HD UJ’s, Inner and Outer fulcrum bearings have all turned up so reassembly and end float checking is next on the list.

Jim