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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Middlesbrough
    Posts
    89
    It was bad enough for the IVA examiner to class it as a failure point. Although not much oil was lost, it did leave a pool under the car . I think it’s worth changing the gasket and seal just to be on the safe side.
    I don’t mind it marking it’s territory, just not at the IVA centre

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Falmouth
    Age
    54
    Posts
    1,691
    Found this from over the pond

    https://buckeyebullet.com/best-engin...%20items...%20

    On Amazon

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Lucas-Oil-1...s%2C167&sr=8-2

    Got to be worth a go for 12 quid?

    cheers
    Kiel and Duncan (dad and the lad errr young man now)

    AHP Crendon Chassis No 1
    Ford FE 434, dual quad, Toploader total old school all the way
    https://www.crendonreplicas.com/
    http://www.absolutehorsepower.co.uk/

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Malvern, Worcestershire
    Age
    76
    Posts
    401
    Quote Originally Posted by kitcarsareus View Post
    Found this from over the pond

    https://buckeyebullet.com/best-engin...%20items...%20

    On Amazon

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Lucas-Oil-1...s%2C167&sr=8-2

    Got to be worth a go for 12 quid?

    cheers
    It's not the £12 I'd worry about, it's the possibility, however remote or otherwise, of gumming up some oilways and damaging a valuable engine. Most people on here are fitting new or rebuilt engines. Chucking gunge into them can't be a good idea. Years ago a friend did a similar thing with the coolant (Barr's leaks) on his Ford Zodiac and succeeded in blocking the heater and eventually overheating the engine.

    Brian.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Hockley ,Essex
    Age
    57
    Posts
    302
    I wouldn't use any of these so called leak sealers as said they will
    usually gum things up .
    There original purpose was to just get you home and then fix the
    problem properly,
    then you would have the added task of clearing out ALL of the gunk in
    the water system .
    The oil additive will actually block the oil filter and just run through the
    oil bypass valve, therefore not filtering the oil.
    My advise would be don't do it ,
    Chris.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Middlesbrough
    Posts
    89
    Thanks guys - some people have suggested it could be as simple as the oil being 'too thin' given it is synthetic. I thought I'd try a quick solution of changing the oil for a non synthetic 'old school' type. Just wondered if anyone has any suggestions on the best brand/type to go for?

    Thanks

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Northampton
    Posts
    1,881
    Quote Originally Posted by Inzapp View Post
    Thanks guys - some people have suggested it could be as simple as the oil being 'too thin' given it is synthetic. I thought I'd try a quick solution of changing the oil for a non synthetic 'old school' type. Just wondered if anyone has any suggestions on the best brand/type to go for?

    Thanks
    I use Valvoline VR1.
    Dek

  7. #17
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Hockley ,Essex
    Age
    57
    Posts
    302
    Same here,
    I did use castrol 15w/50 a few times
    but the valvoline vr1 is far better in my
    old Rv8,
    Chris.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Chelmsford Essex
    Posts
    1,474
    Valvoline VR1 for me as well 71 Ford engine. Better oil pressure.

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