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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    Blending in Lucas coffins

    I am planning to start prepping my car for paint in next few months (once current hard top project finishes).

    One of these is blending in the rear Lucas coffins. This was covered in an old ST article.... which I have now lost in a recent tidy up.
    Would anyone be able to send me a scan...? If so, pm please. Or if you have done this yourself, pics/comments appreciated.
    Thanks.
    Crendon Chassis No.49
    Huddart FE428 + toploader

    Not listed in the Shelby Register.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    Maldon Essex
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    I have just done it, too tired now, will post you a description on what I did later. Basically the same as the article in the ST magazine which I also can't find!

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by JamesB View Post
    I have just done it, too tired now, will post you a description on what I did later. Basically the same as the article in the ST magazine which I also can't find!
    Thanks James,
    Kevin
    Crendon Chassis No.49
    Huddart FE428 + toploader

    Not listed in the Shelby Register.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
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    June 2016, SnakeTorque 125, pages 9-11

    Took me ages to find that! PM me your email address, Kevin, and I can send a PDF.
    My DeDion build diary..
    Hon Sec of the Digidash branch of the Unpopular Kit Car Design club

  5. #5
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    OK so I have a few photos of the lights in place before applying filler which I will post later today. The twin round light on most 427's actually occupy a larger flat surface area than the coffin type lights fitted to some 427's and I believe all SC's and comp cars. No idea why they even did that. However what it means in practical terms is that the bodywork on the cars with round lights is slightly shorter at the back, truncated to give a larger flat surface to mount the lights, it is also very slightly more rounded at the top to match the round profile of the light but that's is really negligible and can be sanded out. So to get the rear bodywork profile right you actually need to bring the profile further backwards as per the 289's and SC. I calculated that it needed to be about 7mm, don't ask me how I can't remember but that's what I wrote in my build book!

    So what I did was draw round the new lamps including the rubber and allowing about 1-2mm all the way round to give the profile of the plinth that the lamp needs to sit on. I then got some perspex which I could not get in 7mm but got 8mm sheet. I marked the profile on the perspex and then cut it out but with a 30 degree angle so that the base of the packing piece that goes against the bodywork it actually a larger version of the profile than where the light sits. I did it with a small band saw. That part is not really required but if you do it, you just need less filler. I then sanded flat the old light pad, and roughed up the back of the perspex plinths and bonded them to the bodywork, I also added a couple of self tapping screws to hold the perspex to the body while the glue dried but use clearance holes in the perspex or you will split it. Obviously these are countersunk as I will leave these in place as well. The coffin lamps also fit slightly higher on the bodywork i.e the horizontal centre line of the lamp is higher than the center line between the 2 round lamps but the pictures should show that. I have not yet filled the bodywork as I have a lot of other things to do before I get to that but they fit well and look correct compared to pictures. I also have the advantage that I have a friend with an original 289 so I have looked at that as well so I am confident that what I have done is pretty close.

    As I said, I will post some pictures when I can get to it.
    Last edited by JamesB; 04-02-21 at 10:50 AM.

  6. #6
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    Thanks James - that's a very interesting variant on the original article I read - not keen on loads of filler either.
    Aaron, would still appreciate reading the old article - pm sent.
    cheers,
    kevin
    Crendon Chassis No.49
    Huddart FE428 + toploader

    Not listed in the Shelby Register.

  7. #7
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    Should be with you now Kev Well, as soon as it wings its way between Google's mail server and yours!
    My DeDion build diary..
    Hon Sec of the Digidash branch of the Unpopular Kit Car Design club

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Cambridge
    Posts
    219
    Would also appreciate a copy of that please Aaron? Planning ahead!
    Thanks,

    Grumbleweed

    If you're not meant to eat animals, how come they're made of meat!?

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    No worries - just drop me a PM with your email address and I'll send a copy over; I don't want to just outright share it on Google Drive or similar in case I upset the Cobra Club committee. They're bigger and scarier than me
    My DeDion build diary..
    Hon Sec of the Digidash branch of the Unpopular Kit Car Design club

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    Location
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    Kevin, will check that angle for you, I said 30 degrees but looking at the pictures I think I must have changed my mind during the implementation phase! as it looks different to my notes, looks more like 20 deg but I will check when its not p1ssing down.

    Original rear body profile:



    Lamp unit with the plinth on the back of it:



    Plinth fitted to the car, note height difference in relation to the overall pad for the original lights:



    Lamp fitted:



    I had to grind a little out of the middle of the plinth to allow the screws in the back of my Lamp units to sit in a slight recess as you can see but you may not need to do any of that messing around if yours fit flush with the surface.

    I would also suggest that rather than using normal body filler you get glass fibre reinforced filler, its MUCH tougher than the normal stuff having fibres of glass in it instead of chalk to baulk it out. It also sticks like sh1t to a blanket, On the RAM the rear edge of the boot floor is bonded to the body with the damn stuff, it took me ages to get rid of it when attempting to fit a new floor. I would not use this everywhere on a car but in this instance where its a bit more than just a skim I would.

    Obviously, once this is on you need to be carful with your sanding because you need to leave that profile intact for the light to sit on even if you round off the edge very slightly.

    Oh and I remembered, I actually used a scroll saw not a band saw as the band saw did not like the fairly tight corners.




    Car has actually moved on a LOT since those photos, there is me saying I did it recently, the date on the photos is June 2019!

    Hope this helps.

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