AK Gen 1 Rear Caliper Replacement

[TonyD]

As the title suggests I'm replacing my rear calipers like for like , standard inboard JagXJS/ Series 3 fare.

Whats the easiest method ?

I'm thinking it would be easier to drop the diff assembly complete and remove/ replace on the floor. Someone nameless thinks it may be possible to do in situ.

Whats the concensus of opinion out there?

Cheers,

Tony

[kdavies3]

Hi Tony,
Is it easier to remove the seats and cut a hatch in the rear firewall.
I did that on a Dax.

[Chris1]

Hi Tony,
Is it easier to remove the seats and cut a hatch in the rear firewall.
I did that on a Dax.

I would agree with Kevin on this .
The SR that I have has a similar set up but have not got around to
cutting a hole out yet.
The brake pads will need to replaced in the next couple of thousand
miles, so that will be a good time to do both these jobs.
Chris.

[TonyD]

Hi Kev,

Funnily enough I already have an access panel in the rear bulkhead as a means to replace the rear brake pads.

It seems that this option is already half done.

Certainly beats taking the whole rear axle assembly off.

Just off into the garage to size the required hole up.

[jon1d]

Agree with the comments with putting in a inspection hatch and make it removable with some fixings and a seal. Make it large enough.

Take the seats out will give you enough access.

In the long run I use mine for handbrake adjustment and brake bleeding as well which is at least every couple of years.
I am putting in a remote bleed valve for the rear brakes which is very handy.

I would not drop the whole diff unless you wanted to do a over-haul of the back end.

For the Dax you usually have to drop the fuel tank so you will end up with a lot of other jobs ( Shocks, brake line, tie rods, hand brake cable) which you would not need to do leaving it in situ.

[Chimeara]

It’s all doable without an access hatch. Ive done them a few times but a hatch would make things easier.

[427jlc]

Hi Tony, a little tip, when you get the bolts out, use a slim 1mm slit disc in your grinder to put slots in the end of the bolts. Clean the threads if you catch them with a fine file. When you get them back into the hole, start them off. In your brake disc you should have 2 access holes, line these up with the caliper mount hole put a big screwdriver through and into the slot you made, turn the screwdriver anti clockwise which effectively tightens the bolts and all you have to do is nip them tight with your spanner. Sometimes I have have to hold pressure against the bolt head until I get the thread going as the screwdriver pushes the bolt out. Make sure all the lockwire holes are clear as well.
It beats doing quarter turns on each bolt for 20 mins.

[Rudolph]

Always going to be a time consuming job as you will also need to remove the handbrake cable/springs/actuators etc before the calipers - as well as an opening in the bulkhead behind the seats I have a removable section on the transmission tunnel over the prop shaft which really helps manipulating spanners. Use a thin 16mm or 5/8 ratchet ring spanner if you can get it on the hex of the caliper bolt - it will get stuck and not be removable after a few turns but keeps turning and falls out when the caliper comes off. Make sure the handbrake actuators are free to move before re-fitting and use a stubby flat driver to wind the shoes hard up to the discs before releasing a turn or two - you can reach these from under the car. Good luck with the hardest part - re-wiring the caliper bolt heads!

[TonyD]

Hi Tony, a little tip, when you get the bolts out, use a slim 1mm slit disc in your grinder to put slots in the end of the bolts. Clean the threads if you catch them with a fine file. When you get them back into the hole, start them off. In your brake disc you should have 2 access holes, line these up with the caliper mount hole put a big screwdriver through and into the slot you made, turn the screwdriver anti clockwise which effectively tightens the bolts and all you have to do is nip them tight with your spanner. Sometimes I have have to hold pressure against the bolt head until I get the thread going as the screwdriver pushes the bolt out. Make sure all the lockwire holes are clear as well.
It beats doing quarter turns on each bolt for 20 mins.

Top Tip re the screw driver driving the bolt from the opposite end.

Re wiring the bolts I do not intend to wire them this time as I hope to use lockwashers, locktite thread sealer and ditcth the bolts for security wir in favour of bolts without holes in.

Funnily enough all my normal cars do not have wired caliper bolts, a bit of thread sealant from new seems to be the modus operandi so I cannot see any problem with cutting out all that twisted wire palaver.

Cheers,

Tony

[Chris1]

I would agree with Kevin on this .
The SR that I have has a similar set up but have not got around to
cutting a hole out yet.
The brake pads will need to replaced in the next couple of thousand
miles, so that will be a good time to do both these jobs.
Chris.

Won't be changing rear brake pads just yet, I have just checked this morning
and there is a good 5/8" or 10mm left .
Thanks to the above for those suggest tips, they will be very useful.
Chris.