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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Reading, Berks, UK.
    Posts
    1,733
    Quote Originally Posted by KevinW View Post
    - and I have been using them, Master.
    1 coffin light finished, except for paint. Quite pleased - just a couple of 80-grit scratches I forgot to blend out.
    When I said 'except for paint' ..... actually I have painted it, but once I tore off the masking paper I realised I'd picked a really shitty match to blend in to the gelcoat.
    So I'll rub it down a bit and put some better match on next w/e. Pics when I can connect the phone - 'except I'll put them on the Coffin lights thread.
    Good news, glad to see they are coming along, and we'll done, that's a difficult area to do.
    Don't worry too much about rubbing marks at this stage as they will need a good few coats of polyester spray filler or dolphin glaze to get perfect.
    Good to see it's moving on 👍

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    West Sussex
    Posts
    9,659
    Thread revival......

    No I hadnt given up, but a little update from the last 6 months:

    First up...the summer arrived (sort of) and after many years of fiddling I really had to get out and drive the damned car!
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KM66i0F2xXc

    Cooked the coil on the way up to the London Classic Car Show, which involved flat-bed recovery home and took me a few weeks to track down a replacement and decide where to re-mount it.
    Then I finally fitted a tonneau (great service from Anthony at Crendon Replicas), which took a few w/e's.
    Then the Mrs ended up in hospital for 5-6 weeks which was a major set-back over the summer (she's fine now).

    So...September....I knew the cold and damp would arrive soon, and started worrying that all my hard work being ruined by the garage damp/moisture getting into the filler.
    Some phoning round shocked me on storage prices, so....plan B get the grp and filler finished and get it sealed in 2K Epoxy for the winter.
    Many text messages to David (BigBlock) on advice...thanks mate.... and here are some summary update pics....
    Crendon Chassis No.49
    Huddart FE428 + toploader

    Not listed in the Shelby Register.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    West Sussex
    Posts
    9,659
    First September weekend of filler....guidecoat...sand ....

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/ExCXcQazxXs3Laok6

    Then I found flats on the original moulding, so, in for a penny in for a pound ....more filler.....

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/xqXT8KeT5iCT3VzS7

    After a hell of a lot of srubbing and stroiking with the flat of my hand it seems as uniformly curbed as I could get it, so on with a layer of Dolphin Glase:
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/mq5F7prQdkW8m2QY6
    - incidentally this is a very bad (wasteful) way to apply an expensive product....I then realised it was much better to apply and skim using one of these
    https://www.screwfix.com/p/forge-ste...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
    which I had used when I was dry-wall jointing our loft conversion.

    Then guide coat (by now I had moved onto dry powder guide coat once my matt black rattle can ran out) and sand with a long board ....
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/EyPGU9ambFHDAEU97
    Crendon Chassis No.49
    Huddart FE428 + toploader

    Not listed in the Shelby Register.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    West Sussex
    Posts
    9,659
    I had been putting off the last of the grp work to fill in the bottom of the door apertures.
    I made cardboard templates that were then copied in aluminium and screwed on. Laminating up behind and then sanding back flush produced this:

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/EmyeShXA6MaBTZuy8

    On the left hand side you can also see the internal grp work to refix the position of the door apertures when they were held in place on the frame shown in previous pics.

    Filler applied and more sanding to blend in and loose screw holes. I also then removed all of the original paint round the apertures that the previous owner had applied.

    I then discovered 2 new ever-so-slight bumps in the roof if I ran my hand over at a particular angle. Last minute frenetic sanding got rid of those. However, having sanded rest f the roof to 320 grade I didnt bother with this last bit.....

    More advice from David, 10-pack of poly sheets from Travis Perkins taped up everywhere and I was ready to spray 2K epoxy primer.
    I dont have a gun, but got a deal on these (still £20 a can )
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SPRAYMAX-...AaAq3cEALw_wcB

    Everything was wiped down carefully with bluroll and panel wipe, I then cracked the cans and started spraying. There is very little product in the can, and it started to cough and splutter very quickly, so the finish isn't great.
    That issue on different grits above also showed up. But it was interesting to see how the product differentially dried. I was fearing rings on an oak tree trunk with the different layers of filler, but these all faded as it dried.

    Just a recap, starting here ....

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/XdbPRCnXAaatN1Ev6

    to this.....

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/6BM7w9SUx2YSM8Nc9
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/xod3SuBixrd9R2576

    has taken a very long time. Thankfully the finish isn't critical as it will all be rubbed down prior to polyester going on.

    Anyway, that's it for now. The weather has turned too cold to proceed further on this sort of thing, so this thread will be updated in March when the sun starts to return.
    Next steps: polyester filler, (and sand), top coat and clear coat. Go the whole hog or hand it over to a professional....we'll see.......
    Last edited by KevinW; 25-11-21 at 08:33 PM.
    Crendon Chassis No.49
    Huddart FE428 + toploader

    Not listed in the Shelby Register.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Reading, Berks, UK.
    Posts
    1,733
    Well done Kev, that's not an easy piece to start on so well done, coming along nicely.
    If you want a little trial with some polyester remember you don't have to spray it.
    Lots of bodyshops, espc in the USA now use mini rollers to apply undercoat and such products.

    It cuts down the wastage and cleaning and also meets with a little bit of the bean & lettuce eating green brigade as there isn't any air pollution by overspray or aerosol atomisation in to the air.
    I think 3M or PPG or someone now do you tube vids showing this method.

    Little tip, B&Q or Screwfix mini rollers work perfectly. 3M or whoever are " F ing How much !!!!!!"
    The emulsion ones don't breakup with the solvents in the paint but leave a slightly stippled finish mixing and application can get rid of this, the foam ones leave a nice smooth finish but start to beak up, so watch the bits breaking off.

    I have used these to apply poly spray and epoxy sealer during some of the beginning stages of the restos I have done recently and its absolutely fine, needs a bit more flatting but it works well.

    Anyway, well done Kev, when you are ready for the poly to go on I can pop down again.

    Cheers

    David

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