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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Stroud, Cotswolds
    Age
    35
    Posts
    118

    My boss says....

    ... that she doesn’t like the handbrake. For 2 reasons:

    1- the handle itself isn’t smooth. She wants a new rounded handbrake handle so it’s comfortable to use.
    2- it doesn’t work in any way shape or form, which makes hill starts tricky.

    My main concern is the latter. What has to be done with the jag rear end to get the hand break to work? I’ve taken all of the slack out of the cable possible.

    Any recommendations welcome. Even a complete change to electric handbrake is an idea, but I’ve no idea where to start.

    Thanks all!
    SHELBY :- Dax, Chevy 350, Tremex, side pipes, blue + stripes, cream leather... Beautiful

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Worthing,West Sussex
    Posts
    99
    The trick is to adjust the screw rod that runs across the pivot of the brake caliper,get it close but still with clearance and then adjust the handbrake.I hope that this makes sense

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Stroud, Cotswolds
    Age
    35
    Posts
    118
    Quote Originally Posted by johnnyoz View Post
    The trick is to adjust the screw rod that runs across the pivot of the brake caliper,get it close but still with clearance and then adjust the handbrake.I hope that this makes sense
    I’m guessing I have to be underneath the car for that?!? #WishIWasMoreMechanicLessUselessFool
    SHELBY :- Dax, Chevy 350, Tremex, side pipes, blue + stripes, cream leather... Beautiful

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Worthing,West Sussex
    Posts
    99
    More side accessoriginal.jpg A thin split pin runs in the screw head groove
    Last edited by johnnyoz; 13-04-21 at 01:23 PM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Bournemouth
    Posts
    691
    Jag inboard handbrake set ups are quite a pain. To find replacement callipers in decent nick these days is a mission. I was lucky enough to find old ‘new stock’.
    They should be self adjusting but good luck with that!
    If you have a Dax then remove both seats, the rear carpet and the bulkhead covering. The rear part of the central tunnel should be removable. You can easily access the hand brake set up from inside the car without having to crawl under the bloody thing!
    David.

    Life is driving the Cobra. The rest of the time is just waiting................till I fix it!

    Wessex region caretaker rep.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Chelmsford Essex
    Posts
    1,725
    There is a bit of a technique in adjusting them. The screw in the side is locked with a split pin.
    1. Take the slack out of the handbrake cable.
    2. Split pin out and screw to adjust the distance is just 0.5mm either side of pads.
    3. Repeat for the other side.
    4. Adjustment of the cable. If you have the XJS handbrake you have an out nut and a cable nut on the inside of the hand brake. The outer cable nut should be adjusted so the brake onnthe drivers side just starts to engage. Back 1/4- 1/2 turn.
    5. Now adjust the cable nut inside until engaging the brakes. Then back off. You should now have both adjusted and 3 to 4 clicks on the hand brake.

    To get at the side screw with the split pin . Have a inspection hatch in the bulk head or remove the wheels on either side and jack the rear end on stands.
    It's a bit more difficult with Lsd as you have the resistance.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Cowbridge, United Kingdom
    Age
    63
    Posts
    10,382
    The IRS inboard handbrake can be made to work.
    All good advise above.
    As for comfort, you change to an Aston Martin handbrake lever (if you can find one).
    It's a straight swap for the really sharp square Dax one.
    Kev Davies
    South Wales Area Rep. UKCC Membership Secretary
    DAX Mk4, 383 Chevy Stroker, Tremec. SOLD
    Contemporary CCX 3-4028, 445ci Big Block FORD FE,TKO 600, Old School IVA'd and SOLD
    Dax De Dion LS2 and T56 IVA'd June '17 SOLD
    1965 Ford Mustang 289 Convertible SOLD
    In build- Hawk 289 Sebring Awaiting IVA

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    NW England
    Posts
    754
    Quote Originally Posted by kdavies3 View Post
    The IRS inboard handbrake can be made to work.
    All good advise above.
    As for comfort, you change to an Aston Martin handbrake lever (if you can find one).
    It's a straight swap for the really sharp square Dax one.

    Same here, didn’t do anything special on build and always worked no pressure problem. Recently changed to outboard but that was for other reasons.
    Reminds me I need to get some kit up for sale.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Stroud, Cotswolds
    Age
    35
    Posts
    118
    Thanks all for your advice, Think it sounds like a job for the garage. I'll have look this evening when the kids are in bed but I'd rather not mess it up and make it worse! Hopefully I have an access hatch in the centre tunnel as per @darnpistonbroke's instructions.

    Quote Originally Posted by kdavies3 View Post
    The IRS inboard handbrake can be made to work.
    All good advise above.
    As for comfort, you change to an Aston Martin handbrake lever (if you can find one).
    It's a straight swap for the really sharp square Dax one.
    Which Aston handbrake? She will be very happy knowing its come from an aston!
    SHELBY :- Dax, Chevy 350, Tremex, side pipes, blue + stripes, cream leather... Beautiful

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Stroud, Cotswolds
    Age
    35
    Posts
    118
    guess its this one (kinda looks similar!) https://www.scuderiacarparts.com/par...embly-rhd.html
    SHELBY :- Dax, Chevy 350, Tremex, side pipes, blue + stripes, cream leather... Beautiful

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