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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Location
    Norfolk
    Posts
    42

    Jag handbrake - lost a pad

    Well my handbrake suddenly stopped working. Went underneath and discovered one of the pads has decided it's no longer friends with it's backing plate . . . RIP pad, where ever you are. I also noticed one of the main pads has worn significantly more that the other 3 . . . . something not quite right there, so maybe the rear brakes in general need a bit of TLC.

    Looks like an nightmare to replace any of the pads. I've got a unique autocraft and whilst there are little inspection holes to the rear of the seats . . . . using them involves taking out the carpet (which is stuck down).

    It feels like an IRS out kind of job (to me), and whilst I normally have a go at stuff (pretty successfully), this job probably isn't one I'll enjoy. As a result I've booked into my local (Norwich) independent Jag people for later in August www.j-cat.co.uk . . . I've never used then before, but they said all the right thinks on the phone. Will probably cost me a small fortune.

    Does anyone feel like changing my mind . . . convince me it's not that hard . . . . have any words of wisdom. . . or want to take the piss . . . feel free.

    Phil

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Nova Scotia
    Posts
    992
    I have a different make of Cobra, but mine has a small access panel on the rear bulkhead (just behind the seats) just for the purpose of changing brake pads as well as for the parking brake connection and adjsutment. I wonder if you could make one for your car? Might be a lot of work this time, but next time will make up for it.

    For the record, in order to change my inboard rear calipers, I would have to remove the IRS.
    John

    “A prudent person profits from personal experience, a wise one from the experience of others.”

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Chelmsford Essex
    Posts
    1,741
    If you have good access through your inspection hatch . You just need the right socket to get on the blind nut. It is well buried. Easy to change . Adjustment is key so check the brass spacer prong are not cracked and you have springs on both sides. Any caliper or disc change is a drop out of the complete IRS. You dont have to take a fuel tank as for Dax so a bit easier.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Location
    Surrey
    Posts
    32
    You really need to get the mechanism out and properly clean and check it - they come apart quite easily.


    Sounds like you need an access hole behind the seats as the mechanism lifts out above the disc.
    Need to understand why it failed - poor adjustment, sticky mechanism, unbalanced adjustment, handbrake turns, old rubbish pads?

    The two screws (16) hold it all in place - remove the handbrake cable and the return springs first.
    The most important part is the adjusting screw (14) and make sure the hole for the pin (15) is clear.

    Clean and grease all the moving parts and reassemble with the new pads set wide enough to easily clear the disc as you put it all back together.
    I then get under the car and use a stubby driver to tighten the pads with the adjuster screw (14), then put back the cable and return springs. Test to see it all works before finally fitting the split pin (15).
    Not a 5 minute job, but if you have the access and time it is god to get it all working properly again. Make sure all the mechanism is free moving so that the pads settle centrally on the disc and the running clearance is OK.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Chelmsford Essex
    Posts
    1,741
    The last over haul of the hand brake.

    1. Replaced 17 locking tab
    2. Replaced 18 the brass two pronged space adjuster. These can crack around the hole.
    3. Red grease 5 wheel and 4 . Inspect no4 is not broken
    4. Grease NSS the cable eye holes as these should move

    When adjusting 14 screw this in and make sure you have a small gap which is equal either side for the hand brake pads.

    I would also inspect the disc brakes and see if the discs are centred correctly. Look at the centre line of the calliper. I have found if the gap is incorrect on the spacing it can be a simple fix of cleaning the calliper mating surface. A small amount of paint on the diff face or calliper plating can off set this.

    These two videos are great for ref with tips

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J3xpRsijig0

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PCUZkWPtcgQ

    If not it means you hand brake pads will wear uneven and your brake pads.
    John Desz

    Essex & Herts Area Rep. UKCC

    Dax 351 Cleveland T5 2.88 PL

    Events posted and meeting updates follow Face Book.

    https://www.facebook.com/groups/170236225077355

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Hertfordshire
    Posts
    532
    I've got a Unique Autocraft and it's a really simple job.

    I can't link or attach pics on the forum from my mac for some reason but will email you a photo.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Cowbridge, United Kingdom
    Age
    63
    Posts
    10,397
    Had the same problem years ago on my Dax.
    After a track session with very hot brakes.
    I stupidly pulled on the handrake when returned to the paddock.
    The heat from the diff and brakes melts the glue that holds the friction material to the backplate.
    Next time I used the handbrake it spat a pad.
    Lesson learned.
    Kev Davies
    South Wales Area Rep. UKCC Membership Secretary
    DAX Mk4, 383 Chevy Stroker, Tremec. SOLD
    Contemporary CCX 3-4028, 445ci Big Block FORD FE,TKO 600, Old School IVA'd and SOLD
    Dax De Dion LS2 and T56 IVA'd June '17 SOLD
    1965 Ford Mustang 289 Convertible SOLD
    In build- Hawk 289 Sebring Awaiting IVA

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    NW England
    Posts
    759
    Quote Originally Posted by kdavies3 View Post
    .
    The heat from the diff and brakes melts the glue that holds the friction material to the backplate.
    Next time I used the handbrake it spat a pad.
    Lesson learned.
    That's another good reason for outboard brakes, heat messing with handbrake pads not such an issue but melting diff' seals more likely to end in tears.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Cowbridge, United Kingdom
    Age
    63
    Posts
    10,397
    My new build has outboard brakes.
    Kev Davies
    South Wales Area Rep. UKCC Membership Secretary
    DAX Mk4, 383 Chevy Stroker, Tremec. SOLD
    Contemporary CCX 3-4028, 445ci Big Block FORD FE,TKO 600, Old School IVA'd and SOLD
    Dax De Dion LS2 and T56 IVA'd June '17 SOLD
    1965 Ford Mustang 289 Convertible SOLD
    In build- Hawk 289 Sebring Awaiting IVA

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Coventry
    Posts
    2,393
    Quote Originally Posted by GDCobra View Post
    That's another good reason for outboard brakes, heat messing with handbrake pads not such an issue but melting diff' seals more likely to end in tears.
    I converted mine to outboard a while ago now and whilst I was at it put an electric handbrake on

    Paul
    AK, on the road Oct 2012

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