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Thread: CLUTCH problem

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    Horsham, West Sussex, UK.
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    61
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    196
    As has already been suggested, if its getting worse as you drive, it could be stretching of the cable. Sometimes these cable operated clutches have cables that wind their way from pedal to arm in an awkward fashion with tighter bends than they should have causing restriction on the cable making it feel heavier.

    If you can get under the car when someone else is in the drivers seat, try and see how much clearance you get between clutch plate and flywheel when the clutch pedal is fully depressed. I have a McLeod RST Twin Plate clutch and McLeod say you should get 20-25 though clearance. I guess that may be similar to clutches in general. If you can't get a feeler gauge between clutch plate and flywheel as full clutch actuation then you'll have to investigate why. EG. actuator arm not moving far enough.

    Just a thought, have you got too much carpet under the clutch pedal preventing the pedal from fully travelling to the floor?
    Regards
    Richard

    Dax - Standard Chassis, a boot full of parts, Chevy 383 Stroker and Tremec TKO 600. Time for paint!

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
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    on the edge...almost falling off
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    Generally, for a MK3 Sumo, the Granada clutch cable was recommended. Hydraulic is the way to go though, I've done over 50 conversions.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Bressingham
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    1,371
    I have not reward the full thread but my initial thought was spigot bearing and alignment issue from the sound of some of the systems

    aA
    A S motorsport Ltd. 01379 688356 mob; 07909531816 web; asmotorsport.co.uk email \"andrewsoar@yahoo.com\"

  4. #14
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    west sussex
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    124
    Quote Originally Posted by philbrad73 View Post
    Many thanks for this info, I know these can be a problem and the link was very informative.

    I am fitting a longer Sierra Cosworth cable today as think the shorter one fitted was running too close to exhaust manifold as there was melted outer plastic on one removed and curve was possibly too tight a radius.

    I am told that to replace the adjuster the pedal box needs to be removed... is that correct?

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by TurboFreak View Post
    Many thanks for this info, I know these can be a problem and the link was very informative.

    I am fitting a longer Sierra Cosworth cable today as think the shorter one fitted was running too close to exhaust manifold as there was melted outer plastic on one removed and curve was possibly too tight a radius.

    I am told that to replace the adjuster the pedal box needs to be removed... is that correct?
    If you remove the seat and take off the door, have a good light you can shine up AND you are reasonably slim, you can just about get up there and put a new cable in.
    IIRC I think I managed to pull the whole pedal out with rest of pedal box in place when I changed the quadrant from red to white - different colour quadrants have different radii on the channel where the inner cable goes, so produce more 'pull' on the cable.
    Crendon Chassis No.49
    Huddart FE428 + toploader

    Not listed in the Shelby Register.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    west sussex
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    OK... fitted much better Cosworth cable, it is nearly twice the length of one I removed and stronger.

    Much more gradual radius and no where near manifilds... but no better, still could not get any gear with engine running.

    The clutch cable is hooked on a plate about 3" past the actuator arm, so thought shimming that out and extending the distance by about 1/2" would help... it didn't.

    So now try taking up cable slack by extending the tube that goes through bulkhead that the cable fits against, extended tube by about 1"... made no difference.

    Now I have effectively attempted to take out the slack in cable at both ends with no luck

    a friend under car confirms the actuator arm does only move 50% of the what it could actually do, so think the issue must be at the pedal and the ratchet is not automatically taking up the play.

    It looks like a black 55mm adjuster is already fitted but suspect it isn't working as it should, so will replace it.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    west sussex
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    UPDATE...

    Steering column out to remove pedal box... what a job

    So now with new adjuster ratchet fitted (old one looked fine tbh) decided to replace the crap lower column bush for the upgraded bearing type as column removed.

    So a few hours later fired it up, tried clutch... no difference

    The clutch actuator arm was not fully pulled back when clutch fully depressed, so a mate levered the arm as far as it could go.. still no clutch

    I tried adjusting out the ball that arm pivots on, this would increase leverage on clutch... still no clutch

    Unless anyone has any other ideas I think it must be the clutch assembly itself, possibly pressure plate... so gearbox out next week and fit new clutch.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Christchurch, NZ
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    2,522
    Surely it is the lengthened clutch release arm that is the problem.
    Cheers

    Myles D-W

  9. #19
    Join Date
    May 2020
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    west sussex
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    Quote Originally Posted by mylesdw View Post
    Surely it is the lengthened clutch release arm that is the problem.
    I am not sure what you mean?

    Are you referring to the 1" extension on actuator arm to align the cable

  10. #20
    Join Date
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    Christchurch, NZ
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    Yes, I think so.
    Cheers

    Myles D-W

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