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Thread: CLUTCH problem

  1. #21
    Join Date
    May 2020
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    west sussex
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    Quote Originally Posted by mylesdw View Post
    Yes, I think so.
    No that is not an issue, tried clutch without the extension and made no difference, it just meant the cable was at an angle when pulled and over time wears out inner sleeve.

    The extension simply meant the cable has a nice straight pulling action, with a possible bonus of making clutch pedal slightly lighter.
    Last edited by TurboFreak; 19-09-21 at 12:28 PM.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    cheshire
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    I don't think you are getting it. If the arm was not engaging by a mm by moving the cable further away the clutch end will now miss by more mm's. Imagine it like see saw but move the pivot near to one end. The long side goes up say 3 ft but the short side moves 1 ft. Move the pivot closer to the short end and you need more up and down distance, I.e. from 3ft to 6 ft possibly just to move the short end the same as before.
    If you lengthen the arm it will only move as much as the cable will pull it, the actuator may need to be a really big curve to work it. Now you need even more cable pull than you started with.
    It's a nightmare scenario,

  3. #23
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    Dec 2007
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    cheshire
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    It could be that the whole clutch is stuffed! There are other factors, you could move the pivot on the pedal to create more pull, but your getting into a whole world of pain.

    If you decide to pull the box leave the bell housing on so you can see what's going on before you strip everything out.

    You should be able to see how much throw you arm is giving, I may have missed it but some bellhousing have an adjustable pivot bolt??

    Don't give up!!

  4. #24
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    Can someone make a new clutch actuator in Ali or steel for you? Sorry keep thinking of ideas!!

  5. #25
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    May 2020
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    west sussex
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    Quote Originally Posted by 427jlc View Post
    It could be that the whole clutch is stuffed! There are other factors, you could move the pivot on the pedal to create more pull, but your getting into a whole world of pain.

    If you decide to pull the box leave the bell housing on so you can see what's going on before you strip everything out.

    You should be able to see how much throw you arm is giving, I may have missed it but some bellhousing have an adjustable pivot bolt??

    Don't give up!!
    I have tried winding out pivot bolt, first 5mm then 10mm, this causes the arm to pivot much further... but no difference, still unable to select gears.

    I have done some more research and found Chevy clutch set ups have a 50 year problem, it is very easy to install the fork in wrong position on the release bearing, it also can cause stiff clutch as bearing doesn't move freely on shaft

    Today I will check the actuator fork and bearing to see if it's been the problem all along.

  6. #26
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    May 2020
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    west sussex
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    Fork and bearing checked, even removed and refitted to make sure.

    The bearing also slides freely on shaft..... so certainly have run out of ideas to avoid removing clutch.

  7. #27
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    Okay............reading through the article, have you set up your clutch as per article? If it says you should have 16mm of throw are you getting this?

    If you are then you need to figure out what was wearing down to get worse?

    Also did it wear down quickly over little miles?

    Clutch friction plate could be worn down to nothing
    Self adjuster to take up slack is failing or set up wrong
    Is the thrust bearing staying perpendicular to the splines when depressed or is the clutch fork tilting it as it gets pushed?
    When your friend pushes the pedal is the cable pull immediate denoting zero slack or does the pedal go down some distance before the cable moves?

    It looks like you have good visibility, can you see the release bearing which should be a couple of mm off the splined, when the clutch is pressed can you see the bearing pushing the splined? Usually it only has to press the splines 5-10mm to release the pressure plate.

    If as suggested the bellhousing needed dialling in, but it should not work from the start not being able to get gears.

    Strangely when you turn the engine off, you can get gears with no issue??

    Take a beer or 3, walk away and look at again to look for anything that you have missed.

    Lee
    .............never drive faster than your guardian angel.

    cobraclub.com/gallery/showgallery.php/cat/633 - this is the link to my build photo's you have to put w w w . h t t p : / / in front of it!!

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by 427jlc View Post
    Okay............reading through the article, have you set up your clutch as per article? If it says you should have 16mm of throw are you getting this?

    If you are then you need to figure out what was wearing down to get worse?

    Also did it wear down quickly over little miles?

    Clutch friction plate could be worn down to nothing
    Self adjuster to take up slack is failing or set up wrong
    Is the thrust bearing staying perpendicular to the splines when depressed or is the clutch fork tilting it as it gets pushed?
    When your friend pushes the pedal is the cable pull immediate denoting zero slack or does the pedal go down some distance before the cable moves?

    It looks like you have good visibility, can you see the release bearing which should be a couple of mm off the splined, when the clutch is pressed can you see the bearing pushing the splined? Usually it only has to press the splines 5-10mm to release the pressure plate.

    If as suggested the bellhousing needed dialling in, but it should not work from the start not being able to get gears.

    Strangely when you turn the engine off, you can get gears with no issue??

    Take a beer or 3, walk away and look at again to look for anything that you have missed.

    Lee
    I took this build on with a Rover LT77 gearbox with SBC engine.

    The gearbox was noisy and 3rd gear could be difficult, seller did not mention this problem

    When LT77 gearbox sent for reconditioning told it was to far gone, lots of internal rust due it had be standing for 4 years.

    As I needed another box I decided to upgrade to the much better R380 box, this is a fully reconditioned box by land rover specialist near Manchester.

    With fitting I didn't get much change out of £2,000 when work completed.

    Gearbox seemed fine when first tested, but as car was not even ready for IVA it obviously was not driven more than a few miles.

    Over the last few months the gear selection issue started and got worse, changing up to 2nd and 3rd gears was difficult and selection had to be done slowly.

    Problem got worse over last few miles, found it was impossible to get reverse gear if engine/gearbox hot (after 5-10 miles)

    Then it quickly deteriorated to being unable to select any gears, even when cold.

    It does not appear to be the cable as even when friend levered the clutch fork to limit I couldn't select any gear

    I have also tried winding out the pivot bolt which obviously pushed bearing much further then pedal would normally and still no gears.

    The only logical conclusion I can come to now is a fault with pressure plate or clutch plate.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    May 2016
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    Hockley ,Essex
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    58
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    492
    Have you checked if your sector bushes are ok because that can cause issues with gear selection,
    that said you should be able to select any gear without using the clutch hot or cold, not with the
    engine running though if all is good with the selector/bushes.
    I would also assume the box has the correct oil as this can be an issue although only when cold .
    The other thing is these gearboxes have an internal oil pump .
    Good luck and just hope it's something daft that's been overlooked.
    Chris.

  10. #30
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    May 2020
    Location
    west sussex
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris1 View Post
    Have you checked if your sector bushes are ok because that can cause issues with gear selection,
    that said you should be able to select any gear without using the clutch hot or cold, not with the
    engine running though if all is good with the selector/bushes.

    I would also assume the box has the correct oil as this can be an issue although only when cold .
    The other thing is these gearboxes have an internal oil pump .
    Good luck and just hope it's something daft that's been overlooked.
    Chris.
    Yes no problem selecting gears without using clutch when engine not running, so think it must be clutch itself that's the problem.

    Is there anyway the recon gearbox could cause this problem?

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