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Thread: CLUTCH problem

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2020
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    west sussex
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    124

    CLUTCH problem

    Bought as an unfinished Pilgrim Sumo3 project it came with SBC engine and early Rover gearbox.

    The gearbox was noisy and clutch very, very heavy.

    I had gearbox removed by yank specialist who was doing some work on the engine, gearbox was sent away for rebuild, but it was beyond repair, so I upgraded to a rebuilt later stronger R380 gearbox.

    Clutch was still too heavy and I felt it even snagged in 2nd and 3rd gear, so was considering replacing clutch.

    I have only been able to drive it about 100 miles miles on private land this summer while waiting for DVLA to send registration

    Today it became even more difficult to get the gears, to the point where it would not engage reverse, I had to turn off engine, select reverse then start with clutch down.

    So I am pretty sure the problem with snagging was not the rebuilt 380 gearbox but the clutch, I have driven cars with competition clutch set ups but this one is ridiculous.

    Does anyone know what clutch should be fitted to the 5.0 SBC engine with my set up?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Christchurch, NZ
    Age
    60
    Posts
    2,522
    Really need a bit more info about the set-up that you have. There is no 'right' combination of parts for a custom driveline like yours. Either:

    1. There is something wrong with what you have i.e. air in the system, leaking cylinder
    OR
    2. The combination of parts don't work well together
    OR
    3. Both
    Cheers

    Myles D-W

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Chelmsford Essex
    Posts
    1,741
    Competition or dual clutch systems are heavy. Getting the correct gear box dialed in and the correct spacers on the shaft is key. I guess you have checked your shaft depths and shimmed.
    The hydraulic side .You need the correct master cylinder size pipe diameter for it to be light enough with the paddle ratio and travel.
    You can fit a remote servo for the hydraulic system which has been done recent but this would not resolve your gear selection issue only lighten the clutch.
    It requires a close look and measure. Look up dialing in gearbox and shaft depth adjustment.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    East Leake, Nottinghamshire, England.
    Age
    57
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    9,653
    If it's getting harder to change gear and now you are unable to get reverse it sounds a bit like it's not dialled in correctly and will be destroying your spigot bearing. This is what happened to me when I had a similar problem. As said though it could be that you haven’t got enough movement on the slave cylinder.
    Martin

    351W 416.7 HP and 466.8 ft-lbs

    Running Mega Squirt and Edis 8


  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    west sussex
    Posts
    124
    I have had nothing to do with this clutch except fitting an extension on the actuator arm which lined the cable up better and I was hoping would make clutch a bit lighter.

    I don't think the guys who fitted the R380 box done anything at all to the clutch.

    It was fine at first but gradually got worse over pass couple of months.

    I got gears no problem this morning when gearbox and engine cold, but late afternoon took it for a 15 minute drive and could not get gears to park.

    I thought the set up was just a cable with no hydraulics... am I missing something?

    Photos taken today might help clarify set up.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Christchurch, NZ
    Age
    60
    Posts
    2,522
    Ah! a cable operated clutch. Lengthening the actuator arm will make the clutch lighter but it will also reduce the travel. This may be your problem.
    Cheers

    Myles D-W

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    West Sussex
    Posts
    9,628
    Also, if you can, inspect the cable for wear at the pedal end.
    The cable operation never worked very well, which is why lots of people upgraded to hydraulic.
    Crendon Chassis No.49
    Huddart FE428 + toploader

    Not listed in the Shelby Register.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    cheshire
    Posts
    1,437
    If it didn't work from day 1 it is your set up, if it is getting progressively work the cable may be getting stretched with the force.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    west sussex
    Posts
    124
    Thanks for replies, the cable was never fitted very well and always looked like it might be a problem.

    I understand the extension might just reduce the travel enough to cause a problem.

    A new cable properly fitted with extension removed is the first step.

    My first thoughts were that the clutch pressure plate was too strong... maybe sorting cable out first might mean I don't need to remove gearbox to change it

    I just need to work out what cable will fit, as the pedals are from Ford Sierra donor car I imagine it might be Sierra cable?

    How do you change over to hydraulic clutch set up?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    liverpool
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    48
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    627

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