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  1. #1

    inboard brakes...

    Hi - Looking for some knowledge-gathering advice please - how tricky is tricky when it comes to changing inboard rear discs and pads?? (specifically on a RAM Cobra with Jaguar LSD rear axel - approx 1980)

    Guessing changing pads from underneath is not a big problem once the car is off the ground, but if calipers and discs need changing then its a case of dropping the entire rear suspension?

    Is it easy enough to get hold of vented discs and inboard replacement parts for (presumably) Jag XJs?

    Thanks in advance

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    West Sussex
    Posts
    9,655
    No idea about RAM chassis, on the Crendon there is a rear access panel behind the seats for this kind of eventuality
    Perhaps you can remove the seats and cut an access hole to save yourself some hassle?
    Crendon Chassis No.49
    Huddart FE428 + toploader

    Not listed in the Shelby Register.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Christchurch, NZ
    Age
    60
    Posts
    2,524
    Either way involves cutting because the diff bolts are under the boot floor under the fuel tank. Having said that, there may be room to do it through the wheelarch once the driveshaft and (possibly) the wishbone are removed.

    I think the parts are readily available.

    P1040059.JPG
    Last edited by mylesdw; 20-10-21 at 08:37 PM.
    Cheers

    Myles D-W

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Finchampstead, Berkshire, UK.
    Age
    56
    Posts
    3,867
    If you are after vented inboard rear discs then you’ve either already had a rare expensive upgrade…..or are heading for one
    GD Mk3 Jag based
    Supercharged LS1
    GD J1M

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Bishop Auckland
    Posts
    326
    I would follow KevinW's advice and create access panels behind the seats. I refurbed my discs/pads when the diff was getting rebuilt - I would hate to do that working from the wheel arches or from underneath.
    You'll probably also find that the handbrake adjusters will need freeing up or at least checked over.

    James
    James G
    Purple Dax / Ford 260/4 speed toploader all in need of TLC and cash but the dreams are there. Dream on - car now blue, Ford 302 and Tremec T5, 6 years later....

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Maldon Essex
    Posts
    549
    Having just put mine back together, I have cut a panel out under the fuel tank so that I have access to the diff to chassis bolts as Myles says. I have not done so yet but I will cut two access panels in the rear bulkhead when I need to get to the pads again as Kev says. The calliper to diff bolts are a bugger to get to with the body off let alone with it still on. I would be tempted to drop the diff out if I need to really mess with them again.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    4,685
    I have Jag IRS on my 289, and have covered over 47,000 miles in the past 14 years. Because of the lightness of the car, and the fact the brakes are pretty much biased to the front wheels, there is practically no wear on the rear pads whatsoever. I do not envisage having to replace either rear discs or pads in the foreseeable future.
    Cheers, Clive

    (If I'm not here, I'm either in my new workshop or on the golf course!)

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Hockley ,Essex
    Age
    58
    Posts
    509
    Quote Originally Posted by Clive View Post
    I have Jag IRS on my 289, and have covered over 47,000 miles in the past 14 years. Because of the lightness of the car, and the fact the brakes are pretty much biased to the front wheels, there is practically no wear on the rear pads whatsoever. I do not envisage having to replace either rear discs or pads in the foreseeable future.
    I agree with that and only have 12 k miles on my SR, spent a good bit of time on the rear Calipers when I built it.
    There is insignificant wear and the handbrake has always been good at mot time, although don't need to have one.
    You don't need anywhere as much braking at the rear on our light cars, especially for just road use .
    Hopefully it will not be necessary to for me to access the pads providing no problems like brake fluid leaks etc.
    If one day I need too do any of this, cutting the access holes is definitely the way to go.
    Chris.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Bournemouth
    Posts
    705
    I would say if you are replacing the discs then drop the differential. That way you can take some very accurate measurements before you start disassembling. You don’t want to throw the geometry out by much, you may need to shim it in or out accordingly if the dimensions of the new discs are different to the old ones.
    David.

    Life is driving the Cobra. The rest of the time is just waiting................till I fix it!

    Wessex region caretaker rep.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Stevenage
    Age
    49
    Posts
    350
    https://i.imgur.com/phGqdwv.jpg

    I fitted the rear vented, watch for clearance between the chassis rails, also fit remote bleed kit, drop axle for servicing adjustment

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