Cobra gear U.S.A. style

[FatBoy]

Originally Posted by Naumoff

Sorry I left that part out. Yes it is of water.



Paul,
Let us know what you think of the combination once you get it running properly.
And go through the engine and re-torque all the bolts you can reach to the proper specs including the crank bolt and the bell housing bolts.
And after each run check your header bolts. Especially with alloy heads.

Hi,
I've been told that by someone else, Wilf I think. Is this a general FE issue or something specific to SA?
I'll pull off the rocker covers tonight and nip down the heads.

Paul

[Neil O]

SA owner's manual says check header bolts, sump bolts and rocker cover bolts. Did mine after a 100 miles, then 200 miles. Header bolts were the only ones that needed any tightening the second time.
One of the rocker covers blew oil out of one corner, so I cured this with a small amount of RTV to help the gasket take up the ripples in the cover. Pressed tin/chrome covers are not of the best quality, cast ones would maybe be better.

[FatBoy]

Originally Posted by Neil O

I have Edelbrock heads, which I think he gets in unprepared and ports etc. himself.
It's a Holley carb, four barrel double pumper, 850 cfm.

They're the same as I have. I assume your larger carb is due to the fact that your engine is a stroker, whereas mine has the original steel 427 crank along with the Le Mans rods.
I'm assuming the new carb this is coming will be a 750cfm the same as the one I already have.

Paul

[Naumoff]

Originally Posted by FatBoy

Hi,
I've been told that by someone else, Wilf I think. Is this a general FE issue or something specific to SA?
I'll pull off the rocker covers tonight and nip down the heads.

Paul

Heads might not be an issue but with the paper intake gaskets and header gaskets used they will expand and contract. Don't over tighten just use a torque wrench and check to proper specs. Header bolts tighten to what you can. You can't exactly get a torque wrench on them.
They also don't use a torque wrench(or so it seems) on the bellhousing bolts (I have lost some)and the crank bolt that holds the balancer on the front of the engine is hard to torque to the proper specs on an engine stand.

Neil O is correct that the owner's manual tells you to check the bolts and that means all of them.
Very cheap insurance.
I like the looks of the steel pentroof chrome valve covers but they are notorious for leaking. Hard to get a even torque on the gasket as the steel flexes and bends.
I switched to the polished aluminum 427 Cobra ones.

[Neil O]

Tony, your wiper has fallen off mate.

[Naumoff]

Originally Posted by Neil O

Tony, your wiper has fallen off mate.

That is what happens when you do a burnout in reverse out of the garage!

[Neil O]

Tony,
something I am thinking of doing is to change my crank pulley for a slightly smaller one.
I think the water pump could do with spinning a bit faster at idle, and also it would help the alternator keep up with the cooling fans at idle too.
I haven't found anything suitable in Real Steel's catalogue, do you know of a supplier and any pitfalls in changing?

[Naumoff]

Originally Posted by Neil O

Tony,
something I am thinking of doing is to change my crank pulley for a slightly smaller one.
I think the water pump could do with spinning a bit faster at idle, and also it would help the alternator keep up with the cooling fans at idle too.
I haven't found anything suitable in Real Steel's catalogue, do you know of a supplier and any pitfalls in changing?

Neil,
I went with the March billet pulleys. I also went with a larger amp alternator.
There is an article in Car Craft magazine that addressed this issue of keeping your hot rod cool.

You are correct in wanting to increase rpm at the alt. to help with amp out put. The battery is only there to start your car and the alt. is suppose to supply the electricity to run your car. When you put a 60amp alt. on your car that is not the output at idle. And idle is where you need it to run your cooling fans.
The increase velocity is suppose to help with the water spinning through the cores of the radiator and it increases the water surface contact to help dissipate heat.
A large cfm fan with a fan shroud will help a lot as well.
I had traffic light heat creep. It would cool down once on my way. Now I have no problem as I have done all three of these thing.

Large amp. Alt.
2300cfm fan on a custom build shroud.
and a small pulley Kit from March.
I bought the pulleys through Summit.
I would put at least a 100 amp alt. on your car.
The one Bill puts on is the smallest you can get.
I put the 140 amp powermaster on and had to redue the brackets and get a dual pulley kit.

[Naumoff]

Also make sure everything is grounded well.
I have 3 ground straps from my engine to the chassis.

[FatBoy]

Originally Posted by Neil O

Tony,
something I am thinking of doing is to change my crank pulley for a slightly smaller one.
I think the water pump could do with spinning a bit faster at idle, and also it would help the alternator keep up with the cooling fans at idle too.
I haven't found anything suitable in Real Steel's catalogue, do you know of a supplier and any pitfalls in changing?

Changing your crank pulley for a smaller one will slow down your water pump and alternator, not speed them up.
You either need a larger crank pulley, or smaller water pump and alternator pulleys.

Paul