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  1. #501
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Northampton
    Posts
    1,217
    Hi Aaron, great to read of the progress you are making after the road-block you hit a couple of weeks ago.

    I’m not sure this is of any help, but when I was looking at header fabrication a few years ago there was a guy on EBay (I think) where he’d send you plastic plumbing pipe, you’d shape it to fit your application, glue it and send it back. He’d then make up your exhaust from the template. I’ve just had a look on eBay and can’t find anything but others may know more.
    David (AKA Firestarter29)

    Lead, follow, or get out of the way.

  2. #502
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Northampton
    Age
    42
    Posts
    4,781
    Quote Originally Posted by Darnpistonbroke View Post
    Have a quiet chat with Dave Brookes. He has, or had jigs to make up the headers for the Dax/Chevy set up. He did mine 250 miles away from my car many many years ago. And they fitted. And they're still fitted! If you supply the bends, he may be able to accomodate you.
    I've chatted to Dave a few* times over the years - especially now he's dropping FEs into all his cars; unfortunately his FE jigs for the DBs won't work for the Dax as the engine sits very differently in the body, likewise the Chevy jigs aren't right for the FE, so he's useless** to me

    *For many hours
    **Not useless at all really - he's provided endless moral support, guidance, pithy remarks etc

    Quote Originally Posted by Firestarter29 View Post
    I’m not sure this is of any help, but when I was looking at header fabrication a few years ago there was a guy on EBay (I think) where he’d send you plastic plumbing pipe, you’d shape it to fit your application, glue it and send it back. He’d then make up your exhaust from the template. I’ve just had a look on eBay and can’t find anything but others may know more.
    I think I've seen a similar listing - my fear was that due to the extreme tightness of the rear port, it would be almost impossible to get someone to make an accurate copy of a plastic mockup.. but it is still an option.

    That said, I should be able to put a set together - I can't guarantee they'll last forever and won't crack, and they definitely won't look as nice as what Russell is turning out in his build thread! It's just that a professional could certainly do it quicker..
    My DeDion build diary..
    Hon Sec of the Digidash branch of the Unpopular Kit Car Design club

  3. #503
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Northampton
    Age
    42
    Posts
    4,781
    Feels like forever since I posted an update .. there's been a bunch of projects going on at the same time which hasn't helped, but I've tried to spend evenings down there chipping away at things; just seems like I have no real progress to show in pictures!

    The house got in the way a bit - first we took out a gas fire and boarded up the fireplace (https://ibb.co/K2v7wKM), but when arranging to get that skimmed in we uncovered some .. wiring bodges (https://ibb.co/Zx77dh9) and ended up doing some rewiring. Doing that we found lots of blown plaster, so ended up taking the wall back to brick (https://ibb.co/FKxxjqW) and uncovering yet more bodges. Anyway, all done now - boarded and skimmed by the plasterer.

    Anyway, on the car front.. fitted the regulator for the alternator and a pass-through stud for the battery cable (top left of the photo) and widened the engine mounts .. can't really see that bit because I've sprayed them black again:


    Spent some time in the footwell to route the battery cable up to the pass-through post .. I have come to the conclusion that I'll never really be happy with the battery cable run, but it seems safe, secure and out of the way so.. it'll do?


    Played garage tetris to get the engine down there and mated to the gearbox at last:



    Going to stab it into the car this weekend... and then the rest of the list of jobs can begin!
    My DeDion build diary..
    Hon Sec of the Digidash branch of the Unpopular Kit Car Design club

  4. #504
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Shipston-On-Stour
    Posts
    614
    Excellent. Engine in will be a milestone!!

  5. #505
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    West Sussex
    Posts
    9,493
    Great progress.
    Will the oil filter fit without a remote unit?
    Crendon Chassis No.49
    Huddart FE428 + toploader

    Not listed in the Shelby Register.

  6. #506
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Northampton
    Age
    42
    Posts
    4,781
    Nope - I have the remote unit, I just didn't want to leave the oil lines 'open' for longer than necessary, so the plan is to swap that on right before the engine goes in and then hope the lines clear the chassis rail.. it's not a given that the starter will clear, yet, either..
    My DeDion build diary..
    Hon Sec of the Digidash branch of the Unpopular Kit Car Design club

  7. #507
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    West Sussex
    Posts
    9,493
    OK...and ofcourse you do have some anodized fittings for that

    At risk of telling you stuff you already know.....but just in case, as this has been a PITA on my car.....
    I had (still have) a bit of a leak in that area, so just a suggestion: your take-off plate might not be very flat - mine was bad.
    I used an old mirror wet'n'dry and plenty of water to lap it flat. I added gasket sealant on both sides of the gasket and slowly tightened up across to the diagonals up to the required torque,
    assuming you have 4 bolts to hold it on. If yours is a central spin-on fixing, then obviously ignore.

    Take -off plate doesn't seem to be leaking now, but the lines are still not brilliant.
    Crendon Chassis No.49
    Huddart FE428 + toploader

    Not listed in the Shelby Register.

  8. #508
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Northampton
    Age
    42
    Posts
    4,781
    I do indeed .. they look a lot like some I got from you, er.. "some years" ago

    Good tip on checking the plate is flat - I must do that this week in the evenings, that and find some good old Hylomar Blue (which seems ridiculously difficult to find now!) and yep, 4-bolt fixing as it's the whole 'replacement housing' type rather than the spin-on adapter type

    I'm not looking forward to the oil galleries emptying onto my hands when I take the existing filter & plate off, either.. clean bowl required, I think!

    If anyone local is at a loose end on Saturday, incidentally... I have a couple of friends coming over already to point and laugh, er, help, but the more the merrier!
    My DeDion build diary..
    Hon Sec of the Digidash branch of the Unpopular Kit Car Design club

  9. #509
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Northampton
    Age
    42
    Posts
    4,781
    Did a bit more prep ready for the weekend, this evening. I was going to take the oil filter housing off until I realised I can't get anything underneath the oil filter right now - and the car is in the way of the crane so it all became a 2-man job! One for Saturday morning, then.

    A thought crossed my mind - to which I'm sure our originality aficionados will know the answer; how did the original cars run the oil cooler? Was it just in-line with the oil filter with no thermostat? Not that I want that - I'd want some kind of thermostatic take-off if I was running one - so I was just idly wondering while wrangling the two ridiculously stiff lengths of hose for the remote filter..
    My DeDion build diary..
    Hon Sec of the Digidash branch of the Unpopular Kit Car Design club

  10. #510
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    West Sussex
    Posts
    9,493
    Original cars ran a thermostat take off directed to the oil cooler at the front.
    many replicas dont bother plumbing in the oil cooler, and you don't need an oil thermostat for road use.
    If you look in my gallery there is a photo (with you and my neighbour John in it) showing how the oil lines are installed - lengthwise, you already know they'll fit
    - but you might need an ANC/UNF anodised adaptor piece. Just check to see if they'll plug in as-is, but I dont think they will.
    Crendon Chassis No.49
    Huddart FE428 + toploader

    Not listed in the Shelby Register.

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