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  1. #541
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    West Sussex
    Posts
    9,496
    ...but a clever chap like you could surely cut a hole and braze a new filler on, and then patch the old hole with a piece of brass?
    Crendon Chassis No.49
    Huddart FE428 + toploader

    Not listed in the Shelby Register.

  2. #542
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Northampton
    Age
    42
    Posts
    4,783
    I did already significantly rework the header tank, so you're right .. it's not a terrible job - bit of brass sheet and it could be sweated on like the rest of the fittings were. Although once I'd done all that I did get a radiator place to pressure test it..

    On the flip side - it's good news that there are now good reproductions available, because even used 55 year old tanks go for £250 on eBay! He says, thinking he should sell the 'spare'...

    I must say - despite teething problems, it does feel good to see the engine sitting in there! Definitely highly motivating. He says, stuck at his desk.
    My DeDion build diary..
    Hon Sec of the Digidash branch of the Unpopular Kit Car Design club

  3. #543
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Reading, Berks, UK.
    Posts
    1,697
    Quote Originally Posted by aaronjb View Post
    I did already significantly rework the header tank, so you're right .. it's not a terrible job - bit of brass sheet and it could be sweated on like the rest of the fittings were. Although once I'd done all that I did get a radiator place to pressure test it..

    On the flip side - it's good news that there are now good reproductions available, because even used 55 year old tanks go for £250 on eBay! He says, thinking he should sell the 'spare'...

    I must say - despite teething problems, it does feel good to see the engine sitting in there! Definitely highly motivating. He says, stuck at his desk.
    No good now I suppose but you could by the header tanks un assembled from Finishline, this is where I got mine unassembled, I just used the parts I needed and in the directions that suited my engine.
    In fact I might still have one of the block to tank flanges, think it was just a bit of steel, oval, predrilled, if its any good and if i can find it in the second shed, the long term I might use it in 20 years shed ?

    Cheers

  4. #544
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Northampton
    Age
    42
    Posts
    4,783
    Yeah - I looked at the unfinished tanks originally and decided that ~$500 was just too much; although now it seems like it might not have been a bad idea! I certainly should have left modifying the tank until I'd got the final engine in.. you live and learn as they say. I do notice Finishline no longer sell them, but Bob @ Vintage does (https://vintagewheelsus.com/index.ph...products_id=52) so that's still an option.

    If you still have the flange .. it would make an ideal spacer, if you can find it


    Went down the garage again last night - it's just little jobs at the moment, an hour or two here, there, etc. Went to make up the ground strap, got it half done but had to order more ring terminals and ditto for the battery to starter cable (d'oh!). Tried again to fix the leaking brake reservoir so if that doesn't fix it I'll have to get a new one and separate the clutch reservoir fully - no big deal, just another £60 I'm going to keep plonking accessories* back onto the engine and once everything is in there, it'll be exhaust time.

    The OH is trying to persuade me I'd be better off shipping the car to someone (a professional) to have the headers made .. rough quotes are around £1600, plus transport on top, but it's kinda tempting as I assume they'd get it done way more quickly than me.
    My DeDion build diary..
    Hon Sec of the Digidash branch of the Unpopular Kit Car Design club

  5. #545
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Shipston-On-Stour
    Posts
    618
    My advice is pay the £1600 and get them done properly. It’s a tricky job and you could get very frustrated!!

  6. #546
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Northampton
    Age
    42
    Posts
    4,783
    You are almost certainly right - just need to find someone who can fit me in; everyone seems to be very busy now that the classic racing has started back up

    Now, back to distributors.. I was looking at the dizzy trying to sort in my head how to clock it around without pulling it out and, well:



    If I do that, even if I move the leads on the distributor cap around so that #1 is back where #1 should be.. wouldn't the electronic trigger be in the wrong place? Then again, does that trigger just at TDC or is it meant to trigger for every cylinder? I need to see if the manual talks about it.. basically, does #1 @ TDC have to be in a specific spot (there's a red dot on the case) or not, I wonder.

    If it does then I'll have to pull it and clock it on the gear, otherwise I can twist it around and just clock the leads..
    My DeDion build diary..
    Hon Sec of the Digidash branch of the Unpopular Kit Car Design club

  7. #547
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    West Sussex
    Posts
    9,496
    editted...think I misunderstood
    Last edited by KevinW; 10-06-21 at 09:20 PM.
    Crendon Chassis No.49
    Huddart FE428 + toploader

    Not listed in the Shelby Register.

  8. #548
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    cheshire
    Posts
    1,418
    I'll try to put this into words as best as I can. If it sounds bo11ocks, it might be best to describe it over the phone!!

    Firstly the dizzy caps usually fit one way, sometimes there's locating slots so once the cap is on, it aligns the firing order to lead number 1, sometimes the cap is marked on one of the leads socket with a 1. The red dot means you point the rotor arm to the dot when installing.

    The cap goes on and you are technically timed!

    You want the vacuum outlet to point towards the front near side wheel. As when it is all installed you May have to move the dizzy body meaning the vacuum will move towards the front of the engine. You are factoring this adjustment in.

    If you're engine is at TDC, put the rotor position to the red dot, spin the dizzy body anti clockwise so the vacuum outlet is now pointing to the near side. The rotor should stay in place as per original install, best put a dab of tippex on the new position. Put it all into the engine and the outlet hole for the spark plug lead which is above the tippex now becomes your new number 1 firing order, you then Mark this and follow the lead pattern for the firing order.

    Once running, you should have enough swing on the body to advance the timing but the vacuum port should not hit the expansion tank.

    It may be you only have to point the vacuum port towards the headlight if you have advance built into the cam??

    I think I'm making sense...........
    .............never drive faster than your guardian angel.

    cobraclub.com/gallery/showgallery.php/cat/633 - this is the link to my build photo's you have to put w w w . h t t p : / / in front of it!!

  9. #549
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    West Sussex
    Age
    63
    Posts
    245
    For the moment don't try and think about everything at the same time. First make sure Number 1 is at tdc as indicated by the crank pointer and piston 1 is at tdc.
    Now lift turn and guide your distributor to the position to clear your tank. Check to see if your rotor arm lines up with one of the distributor electrodes, that is now your new number 1. Also make sure you have enough adjustment by rotating the distributor both ways so you can time it. Now replace the plug leads in the correct firing order.
    I see you have the ignitor 2, mine failed after only 4000 miles. Everything I read said if they fail it is a total fail there is no partial fail. Don't believe it they can partially fail, believe me it had me looking everywhere for a backfire and poor idling. I have replaced it with the ignitor 3 which so far is trouble free.

    Baz

    Ha ha I had the same thought as you in my head it makes sense I think lol
    Last edited by AKBaz; 10-06-21 at 09:46 PM. Reason: Making sense

  10. #550
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    cheshire
    Posts
    1,418
    That right Baz it’s actually quite easy to do but trying to put it in to words is something else….!! Haha

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