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  1. #11
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Hampshire
    Posts
    186
    Should really set up by corner weights, otherwise you could have braking issues if the weights are off.

    however in the absence of corner weighing equipment I would set ride height level and test to ensure one wheel doesn’t lock up in advance of the other. If all was ok before and the car pulled up straight you should be ok.

    is it far out with the springs set to the same dimensions? Could be a sign that they are not identical.
    Roger

    RamSC 351 Cleveland

    on the road 20 years- nearly finished

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Somerset
    Posts
    1,093
    Hi
    Thanks for the reply. The car has just been through MOT with it's new springs and passed OK. It's really a visual thing. The car drives and brakes in a straight line but when you look at the arch clearance the near side wheel has more clearance to the arch which is what I am trying to achieve.
    Martin

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Basingstoke
    Posts
    1,160
    If you have conventional springs (uniform thickness) they will be linear - not variable. This means they will compress at the exactly the same lb/ft per sq inch of compression rate regardless of how much or how little pre load (collar adjustment) - obviously until they squish completely.

    What does change with collar adjustment will be shock length. Shock length (real ride height) at each corner determines how much weight each corner proportionally carries. Like a lever the higher a corner is the more weight it will carry. Each corner affects its diagonal, like a see-saw (so f/ns affects r/os). Taken to extremes this can mean a car can be set up to turn right well, at the cost of its ability to turn left.

    This is what they work on when they do corner weighting. A fully corner weighted car can look really weird from a visual perspective.

    Rule of thumb unless something is very badly wrong you for road use - you just won’t notice an adjustment to ride height purely for visual purposes.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Somerset
    Posts
    1,093
    So....does that mean it wouldn't hurt to put a couple of extra turns on one of the spring collars to try and even the wheel clearance up?

    Martin

  5. #15
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Hampshire
    Posts
    186
    Give it a go.

    how much adjustment are we talking here, 10mm, 100 mm?

    change it and test the braking to see if one wheel locks before the other. I don’t think you would notice if the adjustment is minimal.

    any offset of braking due to uneven adjustment won’t show itself on the mot rollers, it will be most obvious when braking from speed due to weight transfer.

    If it was my car I would baseline it prior to any adjustment, from a braking and ride height ( both wheel to arch gap and also chassis height )perspective. Make the adjustments and repeat. If it’s no good, you always have the before to reference

    if you are concerned, any sensible motorsport type garage should have corner weighing equipment
    Roger

    RamSC 351 Cleveland

    on the road 20 years- nearly finished

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Basingstoke
    Posts
    1,160
    Yep.You’ll be fine.

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